se7enthdevil
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Everything posted by se7enthdevil
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anyone ever write a rebuttal to kiln drying
se7enthdevil replied to Logsnstuff's topic in Firewood forum
if they are done in a solar kiln like polytunnels and greenhouses (or any other sort of solar kiln) then that's fine but if they are just left outside in fresh air then that's false advertising in my opinion. -
anyone ever write a rebuttal to kiln drying
se7enthdevil replied to Logsnstuff's topic in Firewood forum
exactly, solar kilns work just as well as other types of kilns. if your air dried logs are as good a moisture content than a kiln dried log then you can point that out but you should not be selling them as kiln dried. -
if i had the dosh then i would be going for one of those.
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i do that already with my 20" rip saw but was looking to cut logs through and through to get waney edged boards and get the maximum yield possible from each log. i've species like damson, lawsons, yew, catalpa, cherry and laburnum that i would like full width boards if possible. cutting like this gives me more opportunity to do a greater range of things once dry.
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those ripsaws would be great if you could get them over here, i understand alec had quite a bit of trouble with shipping. it only goes up to 14" and i'd like the cut a bit bigger. i was hoping for something electrically powered.
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i am starting to collect a few logs that are no bigger than 3'-6' long and 12"-16" wide. some are just to short and stumpy to put on standard band mills and using a chainsaw would waste too much timber. is there a band mill that can cut these small sizes as the wood is too nice to waste.
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Timber framing joints - top tips (preferably with diagrams) thread
se7enthdevil replied to SteveA's topic in Woodcraft Forum
a slightly better version of that joint would be to make the peg a bit of an X shape holding the two mating faces together even more. only works on very dry beams though. interesting to see that the guy did most of it with handheld circular saws even though he has a perfectly good bandsaw behind him... -
i was on the right track then. i'm getting better at this recognition thing...
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whenever i've seen trees looking like that i've always thought that it was fire damage.
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looking in the book the leaves look a bit like the caucasian wingnut?
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Long time lurker, first woodworking attempts!
se7enthdevil replied to Johnmac's topic in Woodcraft Forum
willow isn't much use for anything in my opinion. birch will rot in 5 minutes if you let it. not sure about alder as i've never had any. ash and sycamore can be left for a while before any major decay takes place i think. -
Long time lurker, first woodworking attempts!
se7enthdevil replied to Johnmac's topic in Woodcraft Forum
sorry but i have to laugh at a wickes wood chopping board:lol::lol: where are you located, you may be able to get some advice from a fellow wood crafter. if you are anywhere near me you are welcome to pop round for a bit of tuition. -
if they don't have what you need let me know and i'll try and recommend someone who should have them.
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for woods that will last 15-25 years you need to look at oak, robinia, cedar of lebanon, yew, genuine mahogany, balau, western red cedar, ekki, sweet chestnut and iroko. for woods that will last 25years+ then you will want things like teak, opepe, greenheart, jarrah, anjelim vermelho, denya, padauk and curupay. out of those i would go for either iroko or opepe for good hardwoods but if you can get some cedar of lebanon then get that as you will make the sign nice and light. most of them you can get from whitmores timber.
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the pear is for table skittles so 3" squares is all i'd need.
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possibly, as long as they are up to standard. here is a page giving you an idea of what they sell in boxwood. Type A - Boxwood - Lawrence art supplies since 1859
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for me most green woods are £15-20ft3. dry i would expect to pay between £35-60 depending on quality.
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i'd be interested if i had room. how small a space will it stow away in?
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for that price it would be kiln dried and reasonable quality. i've seen some spectacular stuff go for £50-60. any green wood should only be £15-20 in my opinion.
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in my opinion there are two things you should do to mill a good sized pear. first one is to take it to a band mill and go through and through in 1" and a couple of 2" boards, these can then be used for furniture. the second is to cut it up for endgrain engraving blanks. these are often 4"x6" and one inch thick of endgrain to be engraved for printers blocks. boxwood is usually used but for the larger sizes this is almost impossible to get so substitutes are used.
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i think this is the thread you are on about? http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/56194-spalted-holly-worm.html
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could it be in the sorbus genus?
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you are best off leaving it to warp otherwise it will crack badly and then be completely unusable.
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this pair have incredible voices for their age. . [ame] [/ame]
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no idea, an acorn would help.
