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se7enthdevil

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Everything posted by se7enthdevil

  1. i've got it mounted on my face plate but realised that i need to use the end of the lathe that has the larger capacity. i'm going to be doing some 24" bowls for savill gardens in windsor and intend to do yours at the same time. so in the next couple of weeks?
  2. bellringer, it is attached with a screw chuck. chris hennelly, there are many ays to attach the bowls to you lathe but it really depends ion what you are turning and what lathe you have. bobh, the feet on my bowls are part of the turning. this was a simple bowl turned to show muttley9050 just what can be done with his offcuts. i use dovetail jaws to hold the base of the bowl and unless its incredibly extravagant i leave it underneath.
  3. people know that a house is owned, usualy by the owner, not everyone is sure if the tree is owned by a person, the council or is on public land. not all trees are owned
  4. to that i'll say, "its english grown timber, well i'm english. bzzzzzz" if people dont want it taken they could put up a sign saying privatly owned or better yet, "a camera is watching you"...
  5. well it will split but you need some power... as you discovered. the only firewood i'll have is the offcuts from my ripsaw...
  6. just too knobbly for me jon. i'll go for naturaly rimmed bowls or fully turned like that one.
  7. just thought i'd start a thread dedicated to the turning of bowls and the methods employed to do so. bowls are one of my favorite thins to turn whether it be a tiny little off cut or a 24" beauty they all give me the same amount of satisfaction. i will post some of mine that i need to do leading up to christmas and i would love to see other peoples work whether you are complete novice or n old hand. heres one in stages that muttley9050 gave me asking what could be done with it.
  8. i hope my order hasnt put you off for life jon? hornbeam is undoubtedly a great firewood and its charcoal was i believe used in the forge as it burnt hotter than other timbers but hornbeam is realy nice stuff and if there are any trees of a decent size then they can be easily used for cabintrty or furniture and lots of its traditional uses may have been replaced by modern materials but flooring made from it will never wear out and can be made in tool handles, chopping boards, butchers blocks, pestle and mortars, carriage wheel hubs and anywhere that uses a high load as its very hard and resists wear briliantly. its also excelent for turning.
  9. some of the bigger stuff should be milled as its incredibly good timber...
  10. when you do either a large bowl or use a tiny bit of wood then you do exactly that, but alot of bowl blanks these days are cut from planks rather than rough logs. i've just done a few nests of bowls from beech and i've had a small log roughly 18"x36" cut down the lenght then each length cut in half to make four bowl blanks. they of course have the flat of each half log at the rim and i used a bowl saving device to make the nest. from one log i got 4 blanks and each blank yeilded 4 per nest. so a single log can giv you 16 bowls in the right hands...
  11. depends on your point of view jon. lots of turners will tell you that the bottom of the bowl should point towards the middle of the tree for stability reasons, so by that reckoning the last bowl is correct. many bits of wood are quite small and when that is the case i will smpily slit the log and use the natural curve of the log as the outside or give it a natural edge like the eucalyplus here.
  12. just found a couple of pics of what i turned
  13. on that thread it says that woodturners dont use it, well thats cobblers. eucalyptus is a beautifull timber and E, gunnii can have great colours in it likes pinks and greens. my sisters tree had to be taken down and i had some of the procedes as a novice turner at the time. the items i made didnt split that much and it turns very well, the secret is in the drying process. i dont know about planking but for a decent sized bowl you will need to rough it out first and finish turning it when its dry and the speed it dries it should only need a few weeks. carving a bench is probably not the timbers best use but it wont fall appart, it'll just have alot of holes in it...
  14. that's the sort of sized tree I would like for my skittles. could anyone mill it for me? i'd be happy to give his highness a set in recognition of his grandfathers planting...
  15. my dad used to say that grandad would know exactly which type of elm to cut because one would split easily and the other wasnt worth the effort. i think wych elm will split because it had a straight grain but the others are a buggar with an axe.
  16. if i was a tree i would rather die looking like i do than have half my limbs cut off... 800 years really aint bad, i say let it be...
  17. 2nd pic down is ash... looks like youre making good progress there, tips have been requested on many an occasion and i maintain the best thing to so is get in the shed and start turning... plenty of advice on this thread. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/62016-recommended-lathe-books.html
  18. big j's prices are more realistic. any more would be a bit steep in my opinion.
  19. i didnt mean the size of the gate, what sized bits of wood do you require??? i can get euro kiln dried oak for about £32ft3 in 1",2",3" and 4"
  20. sizes????
  21. nice looking block beau. has that been put through a sanding machine or did you do it by hand?
  22. sand the surface of a patch of board and i'll tell you what they are if you put up a picture.
  23. I always thought that a briquette maker would need the sawdust moist to help it bind together. how else are they bound???
  24. I'd be tempted to just have four 6" square legs with a bit of wane on each outside corner jutting out from the top...
  25. that's what I want to do with some of this hornbeam

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