se7enthdevil
-
Posts
4,545 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by se7enthdevil
-
sonuds like you'll have to come along with your missus for a few lessons james. still not had a call. is this to be arranged for september?
-
i dont think the moles ever made it back after the last iceage...
-
hi woodED, im only in maidenhead so if you need any pointers let me know.
-
are you sure thats acacia? it doesnt look ring porous.
-
A few pics from today's wood turning/making
se7enthdevil replied to Ian Leach's topic in Woodcraft Forum
im impressed that such beautifull peices were created on such a dainty lathe. well done. . -
A few pics from today's wood turning/making
se7enthdevil replied to Ian Leach's topic in Woodcraft Forum
hi beau, if you need any help with turning advice then give me a call and i'll do what i can to help. i agree with everyone else great bowls... -
thats usually the case but after 6 months to a year it wont make much difference. the only problem could be stability with a mixture of wet and dry but 100% green work or 100% dry work should either be stable or dry at the same rate. my large oak table (seen on this thread http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/60100-all-my-woodwork-so-far.html) and two benches was all kiln dried except the 6" table legs which were air dried for 3+ years so didnt move and the splits barely opened. as far as asthetics go, just remember that beauty is in the eye of the beholder... .
-
these have been on ebay for a while you might find them usefull 18ft Reclaimed Keruing Timber Wood Planks Ideal for Furniture Maker / Carpenter | eBay KERUING HALF LAP DECKING IDEAL FOR WAGON & TRAILER BASES EX 32MM X 150MM | eBay 10 reclaimed hardwood timber joists, more available, over £80 new each, collect | eBay could go someway to lowering the costs... .
-
ahaahh thats what that is... i had one fly in to my workshop the other night and thought it may have and elephant hawk moth as i knew it was part ofthe hawkmoth family but dont know any other species. saved me looking it up. .
-
Anyone interested in milling a large beech in Winchester?
se7enthdevil replied to agg221's topic in Panther Mill UK
hi alec, any chance some of that beech could be used for my squares??? -
those are some nice looking boards you got there but why so short? was it a low spreading tree?
-
quite fast but thats a small log though, try this one for size... .
-
very profesional looking. here's my congratulations to the wife... .
-
hi beau, the frame was easier than it looks it was just laborious, personaly i think the skill is in the furniture we create. by the way, underselling my self seems to be a talent to which i excel... your oak looked good on the table, couldnt have made it without it. still have a bit left actually and rather stumped as to what to use it for but i'll think of something. .
-
try and get your planes all pre WWII they are the best. also despite what quite alot of people think of it on here ebay is a goor source of these. i managed to get my no78 duplex, my no6 fore plane, my no8c jointer, my no80 scraper and my no 79 side plane all of ebay all 100% complete and the whole lot for about £250 check out all the options on this great website explaining stanley planes The Superior Works - Patrick's Blood & Gore: Preface odd name for a site such as this but very informative indeed... you check it out too james i reckon you'll like it .
-
they must be on the plus side of 4 1/2", 5" and 6"
-
hi everyone, would be interested to know if anyone has any decent sized beech butts for milling into squares to be used for skittle production. they must be relativley straight and clean of any spalting or other problems that will weaken the wood. not worried about the colour just the structural integrity of the timber. agg221 kindley milled me some sycamore earlier in the year but really i need beech as no one mills beech in thick bits anymore. essex locations would be best and im after trees that are 24" and up, the bigger the better really. if anyone has what im looking for then please let me know thanks Steve .
-
you'd have the patience for that sort of money. the whole job was a fiver under two grand and i pocketed £1000 plus i dint use all the wood have already sold some maple on and still have some iroko left and maple shorts. if i sold it all i could get another £250 one of their members was going to do it originaly and he quoted them £3000... .
-
you can see a slightly more in depth process on their website in the news section as they wished for me to document the whole job from delivery of the timber to the final coat of oil.London Skittles just a few stats it is 54" square 8" thick overall and weighs 280kg, thats over 600lbs... the pins are 14" high and 6 3/4" at their widest and made from hornbeam and the cheeses are 10"x 3" discs (a fat discus is the best description i can think of) and are made of lignum vitae and weigh about 5 1/2 kg. they are thrown 21' at the pins without hitting the deck first. now you can see why i had to make it so robust... .
-
once the appron was finished it was time to fit it. all the components went to the pub we ripped the old one out and cleaned up the crap that was underneath and me and a friend bolted each layer together and laid them in place with a few dozen screws to stop any movement. once it was level we could stand the pins on it so see how it looked. the two iroko base layers got a couple of coats of osmo exterior uv protection oil but the maple had a coat of polyx. these were needed as the basement of that pub has flooded many times (partly why the old one looked so manky) and i hade to take all these precautions to future proof it as much as i can.
-
now it was time to start work on the appron which is an angled bit of maple attached to the two front edges to protect them. i set my rip saw up at the correct angle and made a 5 1/2" deep cut allong the length. it was then cleaned up, sanded, mitred and heavilly bolted together as that will probably get hit quite often and i did not want it comming appart.
-
once i got going it all came together rather quickley as these things often do. once the two base layers were done then i finished of with the maple to wich i added buiscits to the construction to keep the top skin 100% level with no posibility of movement. most people will think this is overkill but go back and see the old frame and wait till you see what they throw at it.
-
everthing was labled up before machining and once completed i knew what went where, a neccesity when you do something complicated like this. as you can see it all machined up very well and i was impressed at the quality of both the maple and the iroko. if you stood 30feet away you would have sworn it was teak it looked that good. very oily too. right, on to the drilling. this was the laborious bit. i marked out and drilled lots of holes for threaded rods with a nut reccesed in to either side that would basicly clamp the whole lot together. i hade to be quite precise in my marking out and made sure that all my equipment was set square. once i had gone as far as i could with the pillar drill i drilled though with my hitatchi and that huge auger.
-
i had to slightly redesign what was being replaced but here's what i came up with. first i made a model of the frame to be built, then i ordered the timber and cut most of it to length and labled up the iroko so i could keep track of the two base layers as they were all different widths.
-
as you can see by this pictur its actualy constructed of three layers, two layers of 3" oak joists all screwed together. the top maple layer like the other two were all laid in alternate directions to keep it square...
