se7enthdevil
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Everything posted by se7enthdevil
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as per title please, need to know the price per hoppus foot of beech. there are two 6-7' logs i wish to buy at 36" diameter and dont wish to over pay. any help is appreciated.
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the double mortices are a nice touch. your design or his?
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if you wish to keep your fingers unbroken, yes...
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care:laugh1:
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some fancy work the fella. nice one.
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for those sized blanks a screw chuck would be better than a face plate. you can buy ones that screw directly on to the lathe or buy plates that fit in to the jaws of a chuck. face plates that size are realy meant for doing much larger bits of work. my jet 3520b only has a 3" faceplate and thats enough for the 20" swing
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how big is the blank you wish to turn??? also what diameter is the faceplate?
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elm is not particularly rare (rarer than it used to be but still readilly available) and only worth £25 perft3 for thin boards like yours. they equate to just over 3 1/2 ft3 which means they are worth about £90-£100 for all 12. if there is any worm or other defects in them then slash that price in half. hope this helps
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no definately not. white wenge is a completely diferent species. it is often known as lati and designated as (Amphimas pterocarpoides) where as wenge is (Millettia laurentii) they are however both in the same family so this may acount some what for the grain similarity but the wood is quite different wenge is hard and heavy and lati is lighter and softer. both very coarse though.
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initialy yes, wenge is one of the few woods that actually lightens as time goes by so as you can see the oiling of the bowl darkens the wood but from that point on if exposed to plenty of light it just gets paler and paler as the decades pass. if kepf from direct sunlight though it should stay dark.
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and another.
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heres just a couple of small bowls i made from a timber called wenge (pronounced wen-gay) which is from africa and is very hard but gives great results. heres the blank first then the resulting bowl.
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great for turning but usualy splits too badly for larger items but it's good for chisel handles or wooden mallets or anything that needs to be hard wearing. turn it very thin when wet and let it dry out for a brilliant effect.
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could be the lebanon oak though Q, libani have just spied a vallonia oak but its a long shot... q, macrolepis
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isnt that the chestnut leaved oak?
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getting things to look identical is tricky to begin with but comes with experience, having said that this particular shape is very difficult to replicate and i have been using a template with the diameter written on every inch of its length for repetition purposes. the finish is osmo polyx with a wax coat on top but this is merely too stop to much moisture transfer in a short period of time as the wood has been in a slightly damp location and it can be a culture shock for it when you put it in a heated enviroment...
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i should have explained that pics 1-2 are two views of the same bracket, as are 3-4 two views of the same bracket. do any of these fungi spell doom for this magnificent tree??? it is managed and did have a large limb taken off it last year as it had some rot in, and why can it not have too large a crown??? if it survived 1987 and last month both with 70-80mph winds in our area fully leaved surely the tree is sound is it not???
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if it stands up to the punishment i'll have a whole set to make.
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the bottom one looks like a natural sponge or honeycombe, is nestled on the ground between roots and a few weeks ago was bleeding a syrupy looking goo. they are all hosting on this magnificent red oak which must be one of the oldest in the country. i tell you it looks spectacular when in leaf and has a dbh of 5' 6"
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any help with id's on these would be appreciated
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heres another of my projects to go with the skittles frame i made, i had to copy the old and very brown hornbeam pin on the right that is at least 50 years old and laminated two bits of 3 1/2" together for the blank. more complicated to turn than you'd think... to one is in beech, bottom one in the hornbeam.
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Why not burn seasoned soft wood in log burners
se7enthdevil replied to cessna's topic in Firewood forum
soft woods i burn are yew, lelandii, cedar, old pallets and anything free that is wood i too steer clear of man made or tanalised because of the chemicals in them. formaldahyde and cyanide to name but two. any softwood bone dry will give of plenty if light and a decent amount of heat. -
hi all, just thought i'd ask if any one has a small amount of firewood they dont want from either a tree surgery job like crown reduction or clearing from felling a large tree then i would be interested. i live in taplow between maidenhead and slough and if its going to cost anyone to dump waste then i'll hapily take the logs off your hands. nothing too big please unless it splits easily i'll take bits up to 12" diameter or bigger if they are ringed thinnish and nothing is beyond me, if its wood it burns. softwoods are fine to leylandii yew, pines, larch, never burned spruce or fir but if its free i wont complain. if anyone has anything then please let me know, thanks in advance Steve
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a lectern is what you stand at to make a speech, but who on here has one??? AHPP what do you mean???
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quater sawn is more stable than t&t but more time consuming and a bit more wastefull. if your milling a big tree then you will get quatersawn from the middle of the tree anyway. if you want 6x6 post that wont spllit then i recomend cutting a 6" slab from the middle of the tree then resawing to 6" squares so that the rings are paralell with two of the faces in effect a thick bit of quater sawn wood but this should give you the best chance of very little splitting and good stability. you will need a very good log for that though.
