se7enthdevil
-
Posts
4,542 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by se7enthdevil
-
people do still use pto saws and if it's in working order but needing a spruce up then you have the equipment you need.
-
i do. other than the lathe (which is modern) the two main machines are old and still in perfect working order... a wilson 20" ripsaw and a whitehead 12x4" planer thicknesser.
-
it is a good bit of kit for that price. this is on my wish list. ROBINSON VR/T 32" RIPSAW. | eBay or my dream purchase. this lot. 3 phase generator , 27 inch planer thicknesser, 12inch cut 3 phase saw bench | eBay
-
taking it to big j's is a good idea. a workshop bandsaw is the wrong tool for the job really mate. if you are cutting it in to 6" slabs then you want to buy a rip saw. try this one. 3 phase ripsaw | eBay
-
was that an old lathe bed???
-
people do boil their wood but i don't know how to do it or how effective it is. could be worth looking in to though. if you are talking about wanting to turn dry wood later in the year then rough turn it to about 1" and leave it for 6 months. most woods will need the endgrain sealing once roughed out with a coat of pva to stop it drying too fast. what timber do you have?
-
oh... well in that case if you find another would you cut me some? my lignum cylinder is supposed to be delivered tomorrow,i'll let you know if it does actually turn up. when would be good to get it cut up?
-
the beech you showed me that had fallen on that dirt track near you. you had already taken 5 1/4" slabs from it (i bought those from you last time we met) and i asked if i could get you to cut the rest in to squares for my skittles. is the tree still there?
-
are you going to be cutting my beech in to squares whilst you have the lucas there, or have you already done it?
-
I knew my firewood business would be useful for something
se7enthdevil replied to SamWhiting12's topic in General chat
nice looking stuff. do you really need my input??? like the fire by the way, though i'm not sure about the colour of paint on the wall. -
no, it sticks to it like, well, glue... why would you want it to peel clean off???
-
ginko biloba it is. not the biggest tree in the world and don't think it will cause too many problems. rough guess, 40 years max.
-
just remember to seal the end right and proper... do the same to my squares too please. two coats of p.v.a is what i recommend for this as it's not 100% water proof so the ends can still breathe.
-
it would need to be very well treated but it can be used. you must make sure that it's on the paved or decked area of any garden too as any contact with soil will rot it in 5 seconds... of course you cold just used a more durable timber for the legs and keep those boards for the top. what size are they?
-
put some pics up gobby. billyhill1981 what dimensions are the planks?
-
oh, i was told they want ed widely spaced rings as it has more elasticity and older growth are usually too closely spaced hence the young trees. i'll agree though if the bit of wood is good enough it'll get used regardless of age or tree size.
-
looks like good quality timber you got there carl. let me know what cubic footage you get with my squares.
-
just plank it through a through. big j has cut up a few of these so maybe best to ask him. not good for longbow blanks as they are cut from 6" sapling trees that haven't had a chance to put knots and eyes everywhere. they are also much more bendy as the heart wood is less hard.
-
aren't those a couple of small trees to the left of his house???
-
i see your point but it could be a problem couldn't it. it should be strong enough as that is the front leg of the benches and the leg is 4" square and the rails 4"x2". there is a shoulder the other side of the joint that you cant see but i didn't think it would need it on the top as 1" of material then 1" of tenon and 2" of square material is damned strong... i put a large thick screw through once glued to sure it up in to both tenons going from the inside of the framework so both heads are visible in the 2" square bit. if it was a thinner bit of wood it may be a problem doing this sort of joint but being 4" (well 95mm after planing) even if you dropped the this bench i'd be surprised if it failed in anyway.
-
the biggest would be the hornbeam ones i turned for the london skittles club which you can see in the http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/woodcraft-forum/60100-all-my-woodwork-so-far-7.html thread. they were a special commission but the most common are the 4 1/2" - 5" sizes. the best wood is wood that is the hardest. colour really doesn't matter as long as it has no major flaws. rot spalting and large splits are a no no. but small bits like bark inclusions, knots and minor splits are fine. as i say in the timber statement on my website i make practical pins not beautiful pins. the wood can be brown, green, black or blue as long as it's sound...
-
this batch will be for 5" pins and any that i can get 5" from could be turned down to 4 1/2" (another common size) or even 4" if the flaws are that bad. the welsh even use pins that are 3" fat so not much gets wasted in a turners work shop. any off cuts or bits that are not useful for manufacturing anything eventually go on the fire...
-
he's cutting a fair bit of it in to 5 1/4" squares for me for my skittle pins and don't mind if they twist and warp as i cut it up in to blanks and the turn it. not everything has to be flat as a pancake... splits will be a problem but if dried slowly then they should be kept to a minimum and some you can just turn away, other you can fill.
-
wish i could sell mine for that kinda dosh really nice use of antlers on there though... the chandelier especially.
-
i'm hoping for another flying header too. goal of the tournament for me so far.
