Mark_Skyland

That's a strange looking carb. I dont remember the 020 av having a carb like that.

It does have a throttle position sensor, its called the trigger unit. I think running a 13" bar is causing the problem. It must be constantly running at max rpm's which is likely causing issues with the auto tune. I understand that huskys have an issue if your running a blunt chain as that will also increase the rpm, I presume that its the same with stihl machines. I think you're right about it not having an air leak, what colour is the spark plug?

Good feedback. We sell a few boa system boots but not a lot so its good to hear how they are holding up in our industry. I always thought that it wouldn't hold up to much abuse for pro tree climbers. Maybe a tougher, thicker version should be available. I remember one of the reps saying that it has been in used for snowboarding boots for years and has proven to be reliable. Like that is the same as getting it snagged on stubs and rubbing against wood as opposed to having snow sprayed on it!

We've also seen a drop in sales of battery chainsaws, both rear and top handle, battery hedge trimmers are still doing well though. As for blowers and strimmer's/brush cutters that's more or less non existent. Which from a workshop point of view is good otherwise once or should I say if battery saws takes over the workshop will die off. Once that happens you will see a big increase in the cost of battery machines.

Some of the mk 2 550xp's did have issues with the crank seal, I think that they we installed incorrectly at the factory so if it is leaking a new seal should sort the problem. Although, the bearing may be damaged to contamination and the air leak may have caused issue with overheating and possible piston/cylinder damage. You really need to do a pressure test to confirm that its the seal that's leaking and causing the issue otherwise your wasting your time just replacing it, its always been the one flywheel side IME. Also any machines I've seen with a dodgy seal don't run OK one day then poor the next, they hang onto the revs once the throttle is released. 99% of the time the rest of the engine is OK but I think ive had one maybe two that have destroyed the bearing which turns into a really expensive repair if you're out of warranty but TBH the seal issue usually shows itself well within the warranty period depending on how often you use the saw etc. This usually happens when the operator has just kept using the saw for a long time with the issue. Note to the OP there are two types of seal for the 550xp depending on the serial number (and the bearing used) so check that with L&S first before buying.

Lots of parts are still available for the 036 MS360 but IIRC some bits aren't. Its going back awhile but I'm sure someone wanted a crankcase which is no longer available.

Yes another waste of electronic kit IMO that will never earn its money back. I must have £1000+ of diagnostic kit that's only ever used to setup up new carbs. TBH I don't recall any instance that the kit has helped with repairing a machine.

The thing that I would suggest to check on a 201T is the air filter cover. If its cracked or damaged replace it. Once damaged you can get a lot of dust and crap bypassing the air filter, if it gets really bad so much dust gets through the carb that it can block one of the ports in the black plastic splitter that sits between the carb and the intake boot. I had to put a pot and piston on one once because of this. There was a massive amount of crap inside the crankcase.

As above, some photos of the cover and the clutch/drum will help.

Does it cut out like you have just switched it off, ie it doesn't splutter or slowly die or if you right the saw it will keep running, it just flat out stops? If so Spud is probably on the right track with a wiring issue. Try pushing down and rotating the top handle while its idling. If it cuts out check the wiring under the front of the top handle as Ive seen quite a few 201s where the wiring either shorts on itself or shorts on the crankcase. There are a couple of different wiring looms for the 201 so just make sure you get the correct one if you do need to replace it.

Its built a lot differently. Where the carb would be is just a butterfly valve, the injector is below that directly into the crankcase. You cant just bin a carb and bolt on an injector. No sensors on the exhaust, there is one behind the flywheel. It doesn't monitor exhaust gases like a car would from what I can see. There are a few YouTube vids on stripping a 500 down, I did mean to make one but we never have the time and my workshop isn't in the best shape to make decent video watching content to say the least! I cant see there being many other fuel injected chainsaws as all the money is going into battery machines. Although maybe a big 120cc equivalent Husky, I only say that as they dont have one and its been what 4/5 years since the 3120 was axed. Im sure that they could have brought an autotune out in that time.

Thats looks like a decent chunk of metal that caused the problem. So im thinking no to piston ring pins and circlips. I am thinking that part of a main bearing has broken away but if you have pulled the crank seals and ruled that out then all I can think of is a foreign object like a screwdriver to maybe lock the piston to remove the clutch! Or maybe some baffles in the exhaust have broken loose and ended up in the cylinder.

I will be interesting to see the Husky fuel injected saw, I cant get hold of the parts list to compare it the the 500i. The 500i is built completely different to standard non injected saws and it is more of a PITA to strip down. Ive rebuilt a couple of them and you need to strip them to bits just to replace the piston and cylinder.

Thats the problem. HSE overacts and the pro sector has to pay for it. Meanwhile the domestic sector can more or less do and buy whatever they want due to the likes of lidl/aldi and ebay. One of the best over reactions I had dealings with was someone working on network rail decided to put his hand in the gob while felling a tree and lost quite a few fingers. The reaction was to make it a requirement that all chainsaw operators ware chainsaw gloves. Im sure that that really cut down on accidents.

It should be 3.5mm on the 372. As a very rough guide 50-90cc 261/550 - 462/572 use 3.5mm, 90+ 661/395 use 4mm for Husqvarna and 4.5mm for Stihl. Small top handles and machines with easy start use 2.7/2.8mm, small saws and regular top handles use 3mm. The average length of the cord is 800mm but this can go up to 1000mm for blowers and brush cutters. Its always worth having some 3.5mm cord in the van as this will fit most machines and can sort out the bigger machines for a quick fix although you may not manage to get it to fit through the starter handle or pulley on the smaller machines. Its always worth changing starter cord once a year as if it does go out in the field it can be clips, springs and recoil springs flying in all directions and a lot of cursing. To give it a quick check pull the starter handle out then pull the handle down the cord and check the cord where it goes into the bottom of the handle as that is the most common place for it to wear. If you have the starter cover off check the cord at the point just after the stopper knot in the starter drum. We sell cord by the metre so you dont have to buy 30 feet of cord at a time.

I agree but not with the idiot part, as I would be an idiot with the scars to prove it! Its more to do with home owners having accidents cutting up firewood that caused the issue IIRC and yes they did lump all the accidents together hence the requirement to ask for certs. A customer came in yesterday with one, I wasnt around but he was asking if we could get replacement bars and chains. He said they were selling like hot cakes and it was all the old dears diving in to get one. Hopefully there wont be another HSE or whichever body tried to ban the sales investigation in 6 months time.

A customer mentioned this the other day he said he was going to buy one for a laugh and at the least he would use it for a chipper snedding saw. It does make us look silly asking for certs for a top handle saw when people can just pop down to lidl and buy one.

If you have electricity to your yard I would invest in motion cameras and an alarm system that notifies you whenever someone steps foot into your yard, and a security system that alerts a 3rd party. Someone needs to be alerted otherwise they have all the time on their hands to do whatever they need do to get past all of your padlocks, gates fences etc.

Royalties can be paid directly to our PayPal account thanks. That applies to Mr WD40 too.

Is that an oregon setup with the 1.1mm gauge as I didn't think Stihl did a .325 sprocket for the 201?

Did you manage to find and fix the problem?

We've never stocked it, there's enough returns from people buying the wrong chain as it is without throwing another into the mix! It would be interesting to hear feedback from someone who has converted say a 201 to this setup, I think Stihl quote something like 10% quicker cutting when using a narrow bar and chain on the 261.

I do try to 'educate' them but they just wont listen.

Matty is on the money if you want to run the 14". Drill the bar as otherwise you will have to get chains made up. The stihl 10" needs 57 not 56 dl, the 12" 65 not 64 so I guess you need 73 which isnt available off the shelf, 57 and 65 are.Or do as Mark said and put a 10" on with a 57dl chain. Also as Matty mentioned make sure you have the 1/4" sprocket on your saw.

Do you want the 660, narr im good!