Treespotter

I like it a lot. There are just two things. The flimsy way the ring is 'fixed' to stay in position. I got a call back by the way to get the new and updated one. The new 'ring' has got bigger 'ears'. The second thing is it burns like hell on my hip. On my 360 I've put some self adhesive foam on the hot spot. On the 2510 I still haven't got around to do that. Wolter

Hé guys, here's mine. . 43 12 inch 3/8 originally mounted on the Stihl 192. The .43 10 inch 1/4 of the 150 is probably the better choice cutting wise but sharpening the 3/8 with a 4 mm file is imho for me the better option. Wolter

What's your age Rick. This sounds like a common operator fault. When the operator, tossing his saw away into his strop instead of hanging it in its designated place is older than one year than the warranty on him doesn't apply anymore.

I think the problem is solved. Husqvarna knows what the problem is but is not sure how to tackle the issue. The link below will explain how they will deal with the 'weak' spring. They probably will replace the loose nut between both handlbars. http://treetoolsnz.oncentre.co.nz/_blog/Treetools_Blog/post/a-good-tradesman-never-blames-his-tools/

I really can't imagine what warranty claims there possibly could be on a Gransfors axe. We also have a Hultafors axe in the family. I bought one for my brother in law while on holiday at their summerhouse in Kvillsfors. Those Hultafors are in a complete different league. Their axe isn't as refined as the Gransfors and their Hickory shaft isn't carved up like the Gransfors and lacks the steel shaft protection right behind the head.

I was taught that a splitting axe is a splitting axe. The one thing that really mattered was the perfectly sharpened edge. Man, where they wrong. My first choice now is Gransfors. I love their steel craftsmanship and their Hickory carved woodwork that sticks to the hand.

You could be right in theory but in real life my 7900 is run on Aspen from day one and it spits fire like a dragon. Okay, a little mini dragon. But it spits sparks and burns bark a lot.

Never had anything bigger on my 200's than 12 inches but since I changed over to Husqy I use their battery saw for pruning with a 12 inch bar and on the 540 a 16 inch bar. Why? It's for takedowns only and because the saw copes fine while buried in oak and elm.

That's the way but I never came close to the three minutes. Never seen a lump of wood that big or never had my saw that dull during work.

It's a different league. On my Husqy 540 is now permanently a 16 inch bar that gets beat only on take downs. For pruning the Husqy 536LiXP is the only way to go. Especially when working in a manlift. No continuous working chainsaw around that 'spills' petrol while waiting for the next cut. No excessive noise. Your able to hear your groundie. No excessive noise. Your able to work in places without annoying innocent bystanders. No headaches (when you're still on your own self mix petrol). I leave my charger at home and on average I use no more than four 3 amps batteries during the day. I change batteries at every coffee break. That doesn't mean that those batteries are flat. Usually the ones that come out are still half or quarter full. No use to run them totally flat to stop and change. Just change whenever you can. The only times I run them flat is when I misuse the saw on take downs. Using the full 12 inches of the bar in for instance oak strains the machine excessive thus draining the battery.

The Husqy dealer can see everything when they plug in the saw. Go there and find out what the problem is before accidents occur.

Same here geoff. Even my small chipper (with Honda petrol engine) runs on Aspen. Up in the tree all day I hated the headache when stuck in the fumes. But on the gound while chipping with a little rental chipper in the small confined spaces of city back gardens it was really really bad. So when I bought my own wee little chipper the first and only fuel that went into the tank was Aspen 4.

Motomix maximum temperatures before scorching is 175 degrees. Aspen full range 195 degrees. Aspen can handle the high temperatures way better than Motomix. The Aspen website even states 225 degrees when my memory serves me right.

Use pure Rapeseed oil. Don't use the bio oils that have additives to make the oil (unnecessary) sticky!!!

Your guessing here Morten. When I made the switch, it was because of positive results by colleges. I realized my chains stopped wearing at the bottom of the connecting links and on the rails of the bar, as well as a significant reduction in stretching of the chains. I think this is because the chain is cleaner with less 'sticky' negativity. Why on earth would I use a product when my chains and bars would wear out faster. Money? Do you really think that worn equipment is worth that bargain hunt? O, one other thing. I saw you are taking about vegetable oil in some posts. We are talking about only ONE kind of vegetable oil. CANOLA/RAPESEED. Treespotter signing off from this thread. It's not my fight. Use whatever you like. In fact, stick to your gue stuff and enjoy your being ripped off by the companies that make your special product. I can't really be bothered.

Sorry Morten, but after almost twenty years of plain supermarket shelf rapeseed oil use I can say that the above is nonsense! The gumming of my saws was in the "bio chain oil" era more of an issue in my saws than the last years while using pure rapeseed oil. My saws stay way cleaner now too.

Mmmm. Sounds nice. But would that include a narrow top handle bar?

Nope. Maybe you could check Arboristsite for those legs and read the 6100 story there. I can't really be bothered. O and Eddy_t, isn't the whole petrol chainsaw thingie produced by Stihl and Husqvarna in the end a complete borrow of Dolmar? BTW, I can assure you that there's probably no such thing as a borrow. Those companies have their legal stuff probably sorted out better than us.

Whatever Matty, whatever.

Sorry to bring the bad news MattyF. I've run my stock 6100 against three of my colleagues 562XP's. All of them were destroyed, no obliterated by the Dolly. I know, it's hard to believe for die hard Stihl and Husqvarna addicts but the German underdog is now kicking butt where it's needed most! But hé, don't do yourself a favor. Stick to second and third best when you talk 60 and 80cc.

You're the best! Wolter

Dolmar 6100 3,4kw 3,8nm Wolter

http://www.kwf-online.de/deutsch/pruef/pruefergebnisse/aagw/motorsaegen/index.htm Wolter

That sheet looks great Morten. I don't want to punish you with extra work but I have a suggestion. Could you add two rows. I think it would be very interesting to see a comparison between the factory stated kilowatts and the KWF tested kilowatts. Another row with newton would be great. That's where the real workhorse saws are separated from the whiners. Wolter

Well spoken. My toes are curling when someone asks what saw to use at a job. As jou said, no disrespect. But when you take property damage, or worse, the hospital bill, or even worse, the funeral bill payed by the ones you love (this happen way more than you think) in account, hiring a pro is never expensive! Wolter