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Treespotter

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Everything posted by Treespotter

  1. That was exactly the same feeling I had. But bare in mind TCD, the smaller displacement saws are also a bit cheaper. Sent from my GT-I9300 using Arbtalk mobile app
  2. Apparently you really don't have any clue what a running 200 drops around you in an invisible cloak of death!
  3. Did you ever change the disks and pads on your car? What do you need to keep in mind than? Is your saw new? Is the clutchdrum new? Is the chain brake band new? What do you have to keep in mind than? All brake systems have to 'settle' before you can safely and 100% rely on it. It's not a problem and there's no need to fix.
  4. The inside spacer plate in the bar is partially blocking the oil hole. I took my drill and partially drilled out that middle to free up the hole. I don't know if you already tried that but for me at least this solved the problem.
  5. I'm still very happy with the saw. The last couple of months I'm even used to NOT use the throttle finger during start ups. Don't use the stock bar anymore. It's changed for a Kox (cheap Blount/Oregon make) 16 inch bar. It's not my day to day pruning saw, just for take downs.
  6. Just cut the two lace holders half way the boots off from the boots. Mine kept bending on the gaffs.
  7. Me too. The Belgian/Netherlands importer told me three months ago it would be January February. So it can't be much longer. It'll be my very first Echo. All previous Echo toppers where IMHO way to flimsy in the chainbrake department and in power (we use those in our treeclimbing courses together with the big S and H). Keep hearing only good stuff about the 355 so I can't wait to get my hands on one.
  8. This one Coletti? http://www.echo-usa.com/Products/Chain-Saws/CS-355T
  9. 16 inch (light) bar for the t 540. Not that I need one right away. But my machine copes fine with that length. Is it convenient for you to ship to The Netherlands too?
  10. The biggest giveaway is the Oregon bar. All Makita/Dolmar saws come with Makita/Dolmar branded bars. This is a first 'class' crap piece of Chinese copy work. But definitely not a Makita copy.
  11. Depending where you're coming from its either normal or not normal. When you come from any brand of chainsaw using Oregon chains it's normal. When you come from Stihl saws using Stihl branded chains this seems abnormal. Oregon (or for that matter any brand other than Stihl) needs more re tensioning. Stihl is the better brand when it comes to saw chains.
  12. And that had to do with the build quality? Or the operator? Just asking!
  13. I'm sure you're right! But I wasn't talking about just a dolly or two. I was referring to two specific saws that brought Dolmar back in business and ahead of the competition. Just as it did with the 7900 a couple of years ago.
  14. Altitude related oiling. The higher you climb the less oil is needed. Apparently.
  15. To bad you never took the time to work a couple of days with the Dolmar equivalents (5105 and 6100). Both in power and torque they outrun the Husqies. Probably the customer satisfaction for maintenance and durability on both saws is better too. But time will have to tell that in case of the 6100.
  16. I think it all boils back down to what you use the saw for. For my regular pruning I use the zubat and the 536LiXP. For the take downs I use the 540. That saw is fitted with a 40cm/16inch bar. That's a combo I would NEVER have opted for on any Stihl tophandle. So please stop referring to the 200 as if it's the best tophandle ever. The Stihl 020AV was still the best saw ever in the arborists truck for the first five years the 200 was on the market. It took years to forget the 020 and to get over the crappy build of the 200. Years later the 200 got a mayor overhaul and 'all' was better. Please stop over hyping the 200. Stihl recently gave it's 201 finally the factory overhaul it needed and is up to par with the 540. Both saws are better than the 200!
  17. Sorry Old Mill, but isn't that a case of RTFM?
  18. Petrol has no affect to the strength of your rope what so ever. The chemical substances in petrol do NOT effect our climbing ropes!!!
  19. Take it back? Is a two minute job with a drill worth going back and demanding a new bar???
  20. My colleague used a factory modified new 201 with the serial number 177543232. So if you can find one with a higher number you're probably better of with that one than with an overhauled 200.
  21. NOT! You're forgetting about a new Bar Chain Sprocket Air filter Handle bar with all its plastic components that work together with the wire components AV rubbers Oil cap Gas cap Oil pick up Gas pick up hose and filter And if you are unlucky enough to buy an old one that came of a dude like me you would probably need a complete new housing because the oil tank is leaking at it's seam in the bottom of the saw. Just go for a new 201. With new I mean the new factory modified 201. I will see if I can find the serial number from which you can shop. Or just go for the Husqvarna 540.
  22. Could it be that the hole of your bar is obstructed by the middle of the bar? On my 536 I drilled the middle of the bar out to let the oil pass freely to the drive link rail.
  23. On the new one the weld has fused the wire completely together. On some of the old ones that weld only partially fused the wire together.
  24. According to the German test facility KWF the torque and power specs are as follows. Husqvarna 550 Max power 2.7 kW at 10500 rpm Max torque 2.7 Nm at 7750 rpm Dolmar 5105 Max power 2.9 kW at 10200 rpm Max torque 3.2 Nm at 7000 rpm In their manual Dolmar states lower/on the safe side numbers than tested by KWF. Max power 2.8 kW and 3.1 Nm.
  25. If you think your 201 is gutless than you probably should buy a new one. I don't know from which series number you should buy but Stihl worked a miracle.

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