Woodworks

I could extend our ground loop but it would be better to have a separate loop back to a manifold as one long loop would add more resistance to the circulation pump. Honestly I dont think its worth the hassle for the small gains. We dont work it hard as in the coldest weather we use the wood-burner and its fine running a touch below freezing anyway just a slightly lower COP. Certainly no problems with ground heave which you get when you have sustained freezing around the pipes. No doubt we are backward country. Still hear people saying 'oh dont trust this new technology' As you say people have been using heat pumps for decades and most homes have one in the homes in the form of a fridge. On top of that there's rip off instal costs when there are things like the RHI about. Think our costs came in under 4k pre RHI but simple £1200 grant. I was able to self install which will have saved a few bob.

A system that gets freezing around the pipe has just been badly designed with too small a loop/hole that cant recover quick enough. There were quite a few stories about this in the early days and our ground loop will run below freezing when we work it hard in dry weather in the coldest weather. In hindsight I would have put in a bigger ground loop but it works fine and recovers quickly when the water table comes up just would be more efficient with more pipe Worked out the other day we were 33kw/m2/yr plus around 3 cube of logs. Thats total electric import but we do have PV as well and cant separate that. Old barn but insulated up to regs of around 10 years ago.

Not you who is confusing it J. Geothermal used to only be a term used for deep down heat in the earth . An example was the hot rocks project in Cornwall but it never came to anything sadly. In recent times the term geothermal has been used for ground loops and boreholes for ground source heat pumps but at these shallow depths the heat is in fact just seasonal solar heating. Least thats what we were told when we installed the GSHP 10+ years ago Edit. Found a good explainer. L Geothermal heat – remnants of the Big Bang - Celsius Initiative CELSIUSCITY.EU Ground source heat pumps (GSHP) and deep geothermal heat can provide temperatures high enough for conventional DH. Looks like boreholes are proper geothermal

Its Arbtalk so derails go with the territory haha. Not entirely off subject with this. Never made instruments but made quite a few guitar stands and a rather odd art-deco style cello stand which wasn't my taste but the customer was happy. The guitar stand below is all laminated rosewood and maple. The neck support curve was too tight to do with just lamination so steam bent the laminates first before laminating them.

Having a second closer look at the end grain there are medullary rays . They are slight but there. Also it has is quite close growth rings so not softwood IMO Think Woody Paul has got it spot on with Red Oak

Cant see any demos on the page. Edit hadn't scrolled down far enough Saw a luthier at a woodworking show and if I remember right he bent the wooden sides around a hot 'mandrel' ? Dont know the proper term but it was a shaped cylinder that was heated and he worked the wood against it to gently form into the desired curve. Guess steam may detract from the colour of the woods used? Only ever steam bent and laminated wood myself to form curves.

144 euros inc VAT and delivery

Video now up.

Just be aware that CBN wheels are much wider and heavier (had to add some bungy cord to stop it dropping) than standard chainsaw grinder wheels. In that video you can see they have put a collet over the shaft presumably to avoid it fouling on the housing. I had to file a little bit off mine to get the CBN wheel to fit. Something that I did on mine and have seen on other home made sharpeners is having the blade forwarding arm pushing against the actual tooth that is about to be sharpened. The tooth spacing either side of the weld can vary so you can mess up a few teeth if the guide is either side of the tooth thats about to be ground. Hope that makes sense PS one more thing the there are no off the shelf CBN wheels that fit these grinders that I am aware of. I got one from Baltic Abrasives who drilled one out to the right size for no extra cost CBN band saw grinding wheels, cbn band saw sharpening wheels, mill band blade sharpening wheels - Home BALTIC-CBN.COM CBN band saw grinding wheels, cbn band saw sharpening wheels, mill band blade sharpening wheels

I got idea from this. Only available in 120volts though and pricy!

I will try and do a video later.

Let's look at this from another angle and forget any green agenda for a moment. Fossil fuels are finite. When they are gone they are gone. Oil is an amazing resource that we make loads of things from so let's not burn it when we dont need to. We have near limitless renewables available to us in sun, wind, tidal etc so let's use them where we can and save the oil for the things we really need it for. Products made from petroleum | Ranken Energy Corporation WWW.RANKEN-ENERGY.COM

So we dont bother because it inconveniences us now? Yes sod all future generations and just please ourselves now. Its how we got in this mess and why we probably wont get out of it anytime soon as we are such a selfish shortsighted species.

First off because it's the right thing to do! Secondly they are the biggest investors in renewables on the planet. Also it easy to be clean when we dont make anything like the UK who then import most of our goods from China

The CBN wheel came today and I have popped some pictures up in an older thread

I made up up a simple grinder system in the end. The CBN wheel arrived today and is fantastic. The profile is perfect for the Ripper blades and grinds effortlessly. Takes about 5-10mins to sharpen a blade so in the end well worth the effort and expense

Got mine from Stephen Cull who came highly recommended from comments on here. Not had to adjust tracking yet. As for sharpening I have built my own little system using a chainsaw grinder. Just waiting on a profiled CBN wheel from Baltic abrasives which is made to fit the profile of the Ripper blades. Going to buy the WM setter and wish I had got it with the mill as it would have saved a load of delivery costs Stephen Cull BladeMaster | Replacement Ripper37 Sawmill Blades | Wales WWW.STEPHENCULLBLADEMASTER.COM Get all your Ripper37 sawmill blades, bandsaw blade resharpening, Wood-Mizer sawmill servicing and sawmill...

Everyone seems to recommend the Ripper37s so thats what I have gone with. Cant say a lot about the WM that came with it as I wrecked it on one of the log stops within an hour!

Looks like too much sap for ash. I would go for some sort of oak but doesn't fit with no smell

Cladco sell (or used to) the plain flat galvanised sheet prior to it having the corrugations added. Plain flat steel this thin is quite tricky to handle though as its so flexible without its corrugations. As for the sink presuming you are sealing it well cant see Yew being a problem

There are several mills which look like the come out of the same factory with a few tweaks here and there. The other one is Rima I went with Woodland Mills because there should be decent backup

It's pretty easy to use. Even after the mods its slightly sticky on the rise and fall and find it best to set your hight by winding down a fraction too far and then lifting to the desired hight when its running as the vibration of the engine makes it settle. Be prepared for a lot of sharpening or paying for it. Getting about an hours running per blade on the douglas fir. I have gone for in house sharpening as I am tight git. Yes, saved a few from the logs pile and bought 12 tonne of 12' and 16' mill grade lengths off TCD for projects and making saleable boards. I am mainly looking to mill softwoods for construction as storing and drying hardwood will take a long time and take up too much storage space. Seems there is no expectation of it being dry for construction so just mill and go. Did my first paying job last week. Cutting materials for making a garden shed. Customer didn't want treated wood and his local sawmill had a few weeks waiting list. Chap gave me hand moving the logs and boards and I did 20% off the quote he had. Added it all up at the end and would conclude it was worthwhile but wont make my fortune with mill grade wood at the prices its at. Plus I am slow and learning the ropes as this took me most of the day but the logs were smallish diameter which makes it more labour intensive.

Mine works well but there is very iffy quality control. One of the box guides is welded on on the piss. Managed to adapt the guides to make it work but not ideal. On the other hand I would have had to pay a lot more for one of the European offerings and I may just be unlucky with the bit of poor construction Agree with others about RSJs for supports and might set mine up so it could be forklifted about as that sounds like a good idea

Belt sanders are far faster than random orbit sanders IME. Easier to mess up though as you can dig in on the edge if not careful. Some come with a frame to help avoid this. I have an old 4" wide Ryobi which has stood the test of time and didn't cost the earth. Narrower ones are more prone to digging in on the edge than wider ones Even sanded down a few floors with it!

An interesting listen on Radio 4 the other evening The Bottom Line - Business and Energy - BBC Sounds WWW.BBC.CO.UK How will soaring energy costs affect UK corporations?