colemanjessenz

really cool stuff, [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmoEWNjgNLg]Alfred Nicholas Gardens Tree Removal - YouTube[/ame]

lad in the mewp could have cut the pieces to fit into the chipper at least:001_tongue: good job , looked like a nice day for it

I love my rip cuts , once you get a feel for them and understand what you can and cant get away with then they can save you a lot of time . also as stated some species are better then others. ....., banters great on this thread btw.

did a day reducing some little trees around ten meters, it was wet and dirty work so i thought id hang up my rope guide and hitch climber for a prussic and ring c/s........ great to get back to how i learnt but it really was average and inside my elbow had a strange pain i also threw my back out:confused1: (getting soft maybe) ..... conclusion, prussic is good for about year to learn the basics ,because you wont be setting any speed records.build up your climbing strength i but id recommend swapping over to a hitch and pulley combo in the future

yeah mate, the melting point is really low too so it wouldn't be great

i think its made up of dyneema which does not standup to shock loading very well , saw a vid of a dyneema sling being drop tested not to long ago and it performed very poorly.

Beat me to it Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

positioner is great , swivel is the way to go defiantly. got one on my wirecore and rope lanyard. The Positioner can be smooth if you also grab your lanyard with the same hand as your releasing one so it slows the rope as it goes through , as for the cinch i haven't had the pleasure of using one yet.

I find this interesting , why not a 8mm op or beeline or anything with a really high breaking strength . it may bind up tighter but whats the reason you cant use it for a single leg "officially" ?

have the elastics adjusted so they dont pull up tight . i have mine nice and loose and down quite far on my legs , used to have them tight but then changed and it is much better. i have the adjusters set so just over half my weight is on my legs. and about 40% on my back

why knot

depends on how you want it to work . i like 10mm stuff on my tach because it feels alot better in hand (less burns:001_tt2:)and it doesnt bind up tight but it does take a fair amount of mucking around with cord length ,wraps , braids etc Back to topic yeah i would say 8 mm would be good if your starting mate. Get all your basic tree climbing skills up to notch and then start adding to em by changing knots and adding pulleys mate. i found this really cool and a bit of a reward type system after starting on a 4 wrap with no cambium saver then moving to a cambium saver and then further on to a vt .id recommend a cambium saver as a bare basic tool of the trade though for tree health its like steps and others may disagree but i think its very important to learn from ground up. Excuse the pun

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=voSlJltO1eo]Arbpro boot review 2 - YouTube[/ame] if your looking for something similar try the scarpa pro ascents but if your feet are wide i wouldn't recommend them cant rate the arb pro boots but the scarps are perfect for footlocking , almost no heel.

if you foot lock i recommend airstreams as they have a smaller heel and they arnt quite as clunky as the others

scarpa pro ascents for most work and airstreams for wet days and dismantles the scarpas are not even comparable to anything else i've used for climbing

xtc is semi static i think Paul is talking more about an access line ?

nah apart from the new interwoven ropes i think all the rope structures mentioned are all the same mate just maybe a selection of new ropes being introduced in that time which all fit into those categories

Taking the Guesswork out of Arborist Climbing Lines Date: 8/1/2005 12:00:00 AM By: Chris Parrish, Marketing Communications Manager, New England Ropes Arborists today are constantly bombarded with new equipment designed to challenge popular notions about the "right way" to climb. Many of these new inventions (or in many cases, repurposed equipment) also improve efficiency and safety. Arborist climbing ropes is one such category of equipment. Never before have arborists had such breadth of product from which to select their ropes. In many cases, the abundance of choices has led to confusion about which ropes are most appropriate. Let us help take the guesswork out of choosing the right rope. First it is important to talk about why an arborist should buy an arborist climbing rope in the first place. It seems intuitive, but often we hear, "Why can't I use a static line when I climb?" or "What's wrong with using the same type of rope rock climbers use?" The reason is safety. Rock climbers use dynamic climbing ropes, called 'dynamic' because they are manufactured with an extreme amount of built-in stretch. This is important when a climber takes a fall because it absorbs much of the energy generated by the fall. In an arborist application, however, this characteristic makes the line very bouncy, and the arborist will expend far too much energy to make a climb than he would using an arborist climbing rope. For this reason, though, many consider static ropes. The problem with static ropes is that there is very little or no stretch. In the event of a slip, there is nothing to cushion a fall. That is the beauty of an arborist climbing line: Low stretch, very little bounce, but with some energy absorption. Now that we've made the case for arborists using arborist climbing ropes, let's talk about the different constructions out there. Today there are four major rope constructions in arborist climbing lines: 24-strand, 16-strand, 12-strand and 3-strand. For the purpose of this article, the discussion will be limited to the first three types. The primary difference in these constructions is the relationship between the core and cover in each and how that relates to loading. In general, the more carriers on a braider, the less cover in the construction. Table 1 lists each of the three main constructions and the percentage of core in the construction. In a 24-carrier rope, the core carries most of the load, whereas the load is more evenly shared between core and cover in the 16-strand rope. Conversely, the core carries nearly all the load in a 12-strand construction. Each has its own unique advantages, but understand that much of what ultimately goes into making an educated selection is personal preference. Having said that, here are some basic distinctions between the three. 24-Strand Ropes 24-strand ropes are becoming more and more popular as climbers attempt to reduce the weight of their ropes. Products like New England Ropes "Fly", Samson's "Velocity" and Yale's "Blaze" are smaller and lighter without sacrificing hand. Typically, these ropes are made from 100% polyester or hybrid constructions of polyester and nylon. Today, arborists have a choice between double braid (braided core and cover) and kernmantle (braided jacket and unidirectional core) constructions. Each has its advantages. Kernmantle ropes are viewed as being more difficult to splice, but can still be spliced and tend to stay firmer and rounder than double braid ropes. Conversely, double braid ropes are much easier to splice, but can tend to feel softer and flatten out. These products hold knots well and work effortlessly in mechanical devices like Petzl's GriGri. Another benefit of this new category of climbing ropes is the breadth of color choices available. With multiple colors, arborists can safely, easily, and quickly identify all the ropes in the system. When choosing a 24-strand rope, arborists should consider more than tensile strength†. Look for a rope that has a thick durable cover. All 24-strand ropes on the market today use polyester in the cover. Polyester is a durable, hydrophobic fiber with excellent UV properties making it the perfect building block for any arborist rope. Finding a rope with a thicker cover, then, will hold up better under aggressive use and will result in a longer lasting rope. Another consideration is hand. Look for a rope that can hold a knot without holding the shape of the knot once the rope is untied. The rope should stay round and firm when under load. This prevents the rope from flattening-a situation that increases surface area and therefore surface-to-fiber abrasion resulting in sheath melting, strand abrasion, and ultimately a shorter useful life. 16-Strand Ropes 16-strand ropes are still the favorite among the majority of working arborists. More economical than cutting-edge 24-strand ropes, 16-strand climbing lines are typically a kernmantle construction. That is, each of the 16 strands forming the cover is braided around a core of twisted bundles of fibers (as opposed to a braided core). The overwhelming majority of arborists today use some sort of 16-strand rope when climbing. Popular 16-strand ropes are sold today under the brand names "Braided Safety Blue", "Hi-Vee", and "Ultra-Vee" by New England Ropes, "ArborMaster" by Samson Rope Technologies, and "XTC", "XTC Plus" and "XTC Spearmint" by Yale Cordage. 16- strand ropes are typically composite constructions utilizing multiple fibers. Fiber choices made by manufacturers can significantly affect the performance characteristics of the ultimate rope product. For instance, some manufacturers will choose to use 100% polyester in these ropes. While this results in higher tensile strengths, it also means the rope will be heavier. Using polypropylene enables manufacturers to increase diameter and denseness of the rope (to prevent flattening) without compromising weight. However, manufacturers also have a choice in polypropylene fiber that can impact rope performance. There are three main types of polypropylene: Fibrillated, Monofilament, and Multifilament. Fibrillated polypropylene is the softer, more flexible of the three types and thus results in a rope that is more flexible, has a better hand, and holds knots more effectively. It is characterized by a "spider-web" appearance when twist is taken out of the plied yarn (see inset). Monofilament polypropylene, on the other hand, is a stiffer fiber that feels wiry or "like plastic," and tends to result in ropes that hold the shapes of knots when untied and bounce when used to climb. In general monofilament polypropylene is perceived as too stiff, multifilament as too soft, and fibrillated polypropylene somewhere in the middle. Another thing to look for is plied yarns in the cover strands. Some manufacturers will skip this step resulting in cover strands that are more susceptible to abrasion and snagging. All you have to do is run your thumbnail over an individual strand. If you're able to distinguish individual filaments or fibers, then yours is a product without plied yarns in the strand. Plied yarns, or yarns that are formed by twisting fiber bundles together into a single yarn, stay rounder and tighter significantly enhancing abrasion resistance. Many arborists choose to use 16-strand climbing ropes because the construction offers controlled elongation and some energy absorption without being too bouncy, and can be spliced for increased safety and variability. 12-Strand Ropes Arborists also use 12-strand ropes. 12-strand users typically "grew up" using 12-strand and feel comfortable with that construction or are just starting out with a tradition system. Additionally, many arborists tell us they like the "nubbier" feel of this construction. Most ropes in the 12-strand category tend to be the lower price point ropes on the market, and all major players in the arborist climbing rope market have products in this category. Ropes like "Safety Pro 12" by New England Ropes, "Arborplex" and "True Blue" by Samson Rope Technologies, and "XTC-12" by Yale Cordage address the needs of this market segment with a lower price point product. As with 16-strand ropes, manufacturers of 12-strand ropes have many fiber choices and the fiber combinations ultimately selected will determine the ultimate performance of the rope. An important consideration when choosing a 12-strand rope is spliceability. Many arborists who do not use 12-strand ropes indicate their reason is the inability to splice the product. At least one 12-strand arborist climbing line on the market is spliceable-Safety Pro 12 by New England Ropes. Knotability, then, becomes an important determinant factor when ultimately choosing a 12-strand rope. Other considerations include flexibility (non-hockling), hand, bounce, and torque/rotation or "spinning". One Size Does Not Fit All At the end of the day, selecting an arborist rope is all about personal choice and comfort. Ask a dozen arborists what rope they use when climbing and you may hear a dozen different brand names. Ask why they select that rope over another and you may even hear a dozen different reasons. Science and technology aside, choosing a rope is largely subjective. What is bouncy to one arborist may be just perfect to another. And it's nearly impossible to objectify something as subjective as "soft hand." During a recent telephone conversation with Mark Chisholm, I asked him about what he looks for in a rope and where he sees the climbing rope category going in the future. For the two-time ISA Tree Climbing Champion, a 16-strand climbing rope is still the most widely selected line for its spliceability, low bounce characteristics, and hand. Overall Mark uses the following checklist when determining which rope is best for him: Stick with a brand name you can trust Light weight design Spliceability Moderate stretch for energy absorption without feeling bouncy Choose a diameter that works well in devices A construction that stays round and firm without flattening In the future, Mark would like to see rope manufacturers explore new products utilizing the new high-tech fibers on the market. According to him, "there are many times when our jobs can be made more safe and easier through the use of lighter, yet stronger, fibers." The bottom line for Mark is that your climbing rope and rigging lines are tools, parts of a system, and your personal safety and that of your crew hangs in the balance. Selecting the proper rope is as important as making the smartest choices for other tools in the system. Explore all choices. Be an informed consumer. Then choose wisely. TABLE 1 CONSTRUCTION % COVER % CORE 24-Strand 40% - 52% 48% - 60% 16-Strand 60% - 75% 25% - 40% 12-Strand 88% - 100% 0% - 12% († All ropes must meet minimum safety requirements. No reputable rope company on the market produces climbing ropes that fail to meet these minimums. Refer to ANSI and OSHA documentation for more information.) Copyright © 2008 New England Ropes, Corp. All rights reserved Hope its not a problem posting this up as the link does not work

I typed out a fair few words trying to describe and answer but gave up , these guys put it better New England Ropes - Community News

Thats a big kowhai mate , what a shame

:might have got the wrong combo there mate i wear airstreams withs gekos (velcro top and leather bottoms) find them a really great combo , the airstreams have a small heel so you just have to make sure they are sitting right then tighten them up your spikes should be sitting mid foot infront of the heel so dont go sanding anything just yet.

Different uses for different circumstances i guess , the revolver would take a bit of wear off the rope and crab because the ropes are not 100percent static so there is always going to be a slight amount of stretch depending on how you set up your system , base tying natural limb movement etc. maybe using normal crabs would take a bit of stretch away ? and focus more of the weight on the redirect point is this what you mean dmc just trying to picture both points of view I haven't used srwp but if find it all quite fascinating

use a little bit of throwline wrapped as a prussic and some elastic on it with a clip to your shirt this will keep your crab up and stop it getting stuck in between your legs . best and least invasive system ive found as you can just leave it on your fl prussic all the time.

the two i have tried have not been anywhere near as good as the 200t