Adamam
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Everything posted by Adamam
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I've never seen a hole like this apart from clumsy repair attempts with acid. Not sure if that's the case since the saw wasn't in my keeping when it was wrecked.
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357xp for pot/piston replacement (old one run without oil and has patches of lost lining so not fixable). Tried out a few Huztl cylinders for cheapo saws over the last 6 months (017s/023/025 and 345 type of level) all with good results. Thought I'd try something for a bigger saw so ordered one for the 357. Arrived today and is complete poop. Paid less than £20, so no big deal, but it ends my Huztl experiments which is a shame. Every one of those marks towards the top of the cylinder is raised. Oh well.
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Just put a sheet of newspaper FLAT on the top when you light the fire and light it as you retreat from lighting the normal paper/lighters whatever. The sudden WOOMPH of the flat sheet going up should be enough to start the draw. Works for me anyway, and we had this a few times.
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The front handle is different (straight not angled) and the colours are nicer. When you break the plastic, the spares will have to be OEM. Apart from that, the same. You can mess about with the cylinder transfers to get the same performance as the 372 in the same way...
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Efco 162 is a very solid saw if you're considering new (or Oleo Mac 962; same saw). Same weight as the 357XP, but 62cc/3.5kW.
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There are at least two online Efco spares retailers; I've never had any trouble getting parts for any Efco/Oleo saws, not found the parts expensive. Certainly no more expensive than Stihl or Husky. The 156 is ace. It's like a 254xp.
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I think most people prefer the MS361 to the 357xp, which would be happy on an 18" bar which I missed and rules out a 260 and in fact anything I just recommended!! Very hard to find a 361 in good condition though...
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Can't go far wrong with a good condition MS260 I reckon. Loads about. 357xp is good, but it's sort of neither fish nor fowl if you're going to end up with a bigger saw as well since it isn't all that light (5.7kg? Something like that). I'm quite partial to an Efco/Oleo Mac. The 147/947 or 152/952 (45cc and 50cc) are good value new; fairly light 'farmer' saws (oxymoron!). Parts easy to come by, in production for ages, fast enough, well made... Just a thought.
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I've done two of these recently with transfer on the piston, both due to intake boot. The cylinders are very clean-upable even if you use the new one. Worth £25 in ebay. The Meteor 357 cylinders are very good.
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Perfect, thanks!
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Gypsies deterred by legal complications?! You're optimistic! Not much short of a moat of flaming oil deters gypsies...
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Anybody with one of these could tell me whether it comes with 3/8 or 325 as standard? Have one coming in and trying to swap/match a bar and chain with it and a Husky I'm selling... Also, it's small Husky mount isn't it? K095? Thanks!!
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Anybody have any tried and tested methods for holes in plastic that have had the thread stripped? I have a Titan 70 on the bench at the moment with a stripped airfilter housing hole. Looking for something better than just shoving a bit of strimmer line down the hole!
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Emak is the parent compamy and oleo, efco and dynamac are the brands depending on the market I think. Oleo for mainland Europe, efco for uk. Dynamac for machine mart? Oleo and efco are the same saws like husky and jonsered. The magnesium saws (156/956, 165/965 etc) are really solid.
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<p>Hi, I'm looking for a manual (or just a couple of answers really) for a Titan 70. I want to know the intended max RPM, and the correct spark plug for the saw. You don't happen to know the answer to either of those questions do you? Or better still, you don't happen to have a manual do you? Any help would be brilliant!</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Cheers,</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Adam</p>
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Buy a Windows licence Spud, you cheapskate!! Seals and bearings in a 345. Reassembled and just would not run, or at least would do but raced and died like it had an air-leak. It definitely didn't as I'd just fixed one and used plenty of liquid gasket when reassembling. Swearing ensued. Just about to give up as nearing the not-viable stage in terms of time vs saw value when I realised I had forgotten to attach the impulse line. Doh. Runs fine now. Stihl 023 with wrecked pot/piston due to straight fuel. Hate this design. Stupid fiddly saw. Jonsered 2152 straight fueled. Cylinder saved, new piston, runs very well. Like the 353/2152 for some reason. I know it's slower than the 2153/346...
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Do you know for a stone cold fact of a screw type one that fits? The Stihl 026 type is too small (just), and generic industrial type version are always too wide across the band...
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Then all that was left was the issue of the skinned knuckles and bind fury cause by that wretched, wretched metal clamp. Although the squashed/skewed impulse nipple is still a problem, even with the metal clamped version.
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This 345 (well, 2145) which seemed to have an air leak (thanks Spud for all the air leak tips!). Thought either the dreaded intake plastics/boot or the crank seals. Took the tank off and discovered that there was a bolt MISSING from the cylinder (bottom-up cylinder bolts), and that one of the tiny transfer port 'plates' had snapped in half (presumably as a result of the air leak/vibration caused by the missing bolt). Surprising! I've read about the bolts coming loose from the cylinders on the 340 and 345, but not dropping out! Cylinder is mercifully fine, but piston not so good.
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I've been working on a few 345/346/353 type saws recently, some of which have piston/cylinder damage which seems to have been from the common intake boot/clip failure. I haven't actually seen a running saw with this problem though until (maybe) today. I have a 345 that doesn't want to start, then starts and runs high for a few seconds then dies. Obviously this could well be an air leak (maybe from the clip/boot which is the old plastic type) but it's so extreme (start/scream/stop) that I'm not sure. Does this clip/boot failure often result in such an extreme air-leak? I assumed it would be more subtle... The pot and piston are good.
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Wowzer!
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No, that's not correct. Should be like this one, which I just fitted today to a 353 from this seller so I can vouch for it being correct! NEW HUSQVARNA CHAINSAW CYLINDER HEAD GASKET TO FIT: 346 , 350 , 351 , 353 | eBay
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I was looking for a 6800 pot for months/years. They are like hen's teeth. From memory the 120si and the 116si are the same as the 6800i and the 6000si (same 'injection' tillotson, hence the 'i'/'si') and thus would fit. The non-'si' versions aren't the same. I'm fairly certain that's right, although it's pretty academic given the rarity of 6800i pots!!
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Is the current Makita 5000 any good? I've fixed (for resale) a couple of a DCS5000s, and they were very nice and zippy to use, BUT they imploded at the drop of a hat. I think they were used by the UK army for a bit. Typical of the UK military to invest in under-tested, shoddy kit! Probably paid twice the going rate for them too! Probably ironed out the issues now though (and the UK military has probably moved on to whatever the current least tested, least dependable saw is).
