Adamam
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Everything posted by Adamam
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The 026 is IMO the easiest saw to work on and parts are cheap and plentiful. Read up on tuning the carb, see how far from factory the current setting is etc. Otherwise: fuel hose and filter, carb rebuild, air filter, impulse hose are all easy and cheap fixes. That is assuming good piston and cylinder. Chain tension not crazy-tight or anything?
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Fiskars x27 is great (also the shorter version (x25?) if you're shorter I guess... As good as it is, I'm still not entirely convinced that it's as magic as some say; I think there is an element of sharp vs dull in that people are used to using great big, dull mauls to split wood, and then they try the Fiskars axe (razor sharp) and (surprise!) it's brilliant. I also use an old, very sharp Wetterlings forest axe and that is probably my favourite although it isn't theoretically right for the job. Dull vs sharp? Heavy vs light?
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Yep. Tested 4 in another saw and no dice from any of them. Am almost certainly being an idiot. Tried all combinations of 2 coils, 2 flywheels, several ht leads.
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Proper money for those though, even fairly badly damaged...
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B*stard 026 still not sparking! Switched flywheel, switched coil, switched HT lead, detached kill wiring etc. Checked resistance and continuity, switched plugs. Tested against known working set-up and can't find anything that differs. Tested ground from cylinder in case somebody managed to isolate that accidentally. Utterly bizarre. Must be something obvious, albeit less common, but cannot get the ruddy thing sparking! Gah! Grrrr! Etc!
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024/026/240/260/034/036! Tonnes around at good prices, spares cheap both new and used, meteor parts in production; can't go wrong! 036 seems particularly good value on t'bay at the moment for whatever reason...
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Thanks spud! I wondered if there were any secret tricks, but I guess not! Only the ht is connected, and I can't get a spark no matter how small the gap... Hey ho!
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The 026 I'm fixing at the moment is sparkless. Coil is good. Wiring is good, including HT and spark cap. Sparkplugs(s) is/are good. Really the only thing left I can think of is that the magnets on the flywheel are dead. They are magnetic, but possibly not as strong as they should be. 1. Is there a way to test this without fancy-pants gear? 2. Why would they have lost magnetism? Left touching the coil?
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I doubt that 070 will go for peanuts; there are too many collectors in Lincolnshire. I've sold a few not-worth-repairing older Stihls to local collectors for more than they are (IMO) worth.
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I've always found it better to maintain good relationships with buyers or sellers...
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This. Every time I buy a saw from eBay I assume the pot/piston is going to be be dead. 'Good compression' is something that sellers seem to throw in the listing regardless of any sort of understanding; a couple of weeks ago there was a listing for (I think) a Jonsered claiming compression of 160psi while showing a photo of a compression gauge reading 130!. I pointed this out, and the listing was changed from 'Good compression - 160psi - see photo' to 'Good compression - 130psi - see photo'!! The saw I'm fixing at the moment has a spotless pot/piston and is the first for maybe a year...
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Stihl 024, 026, 034, 036 are cheap, plentiful and IMO good/easy to work on.
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Awesome, thanks Spud! Happy New year!
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Any common faults with 026 ignition? No spark. Changed plugs, not that. Adjusted flywheel gap, not that. Not the switch/contacts. Anything else obvious before I strip it?
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Put an 'AIP' piston in a Stihl 017. Not used AIP before; made in India with very fancy packaging! It's a lovely snug fit and compression is reading 160PSI which is better than I'd hoped for from a non-Meteor aftermarket...
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On a number of similar repairs, I've used a decent gauge of wire mesh cut and (hand) moulded to shape, then epoxied over the crack (lots of epoxy). Gives you the option of folding the mesh over so that it covers both sides of the split. Just mentioning in case cutting a solid plate seems too much hassle.
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Apparently Windsor got sucked up into the whole Oregon/Carlton/Ozaki thing and the bars don't exist any more....
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Have used Windsor Speed Tip bars and found them to be fine. Wanted to buy a speed tip bar recently, but couldn't find one. Not sure they're made/marketed here (or anywhere?) anymore...
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Ozaki is Euro-branded Carlton I believe. Ozaki and Carlton bars have always been OK when I've used them. The chains have had a greater degree of variation in hardness, so hand filing the depth gauges (for example) can go easy, easy, super-hard, easy etc. Also cheap chain depth guages seem to be set higher, so slower cutting out of the box/bag. Presumably to minimise stress on the lower. Quality chain...
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Hello! Any answers to these questions would be great! 1. Compression is about 130, which seems low. I don't know what is standard for this saw? 2. To remove cylinder: exhaust off, carb off, boot pushed through, remove 4 bolts from beneath saw? Is that right, or do I need to take off the flywheel and clutch? I read differing reports... 3. Anybody replaced pot/piston? It seems only Chinese no-names are available... Any tips would be super!
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Is there any reason to be a log-nazi with woodburners? I ask because I burn whatever comes my way, and recently that has been plenty of horse chestnut and 2-year dried conifer. Seems to keep me just as toastie as anything else I've ever burned, albeit with slightly more frequent visits to the log sheds... Is this obsession with log-types simply a throw-back to when 99% of logs were burnt on open fires?
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P and VG are low kickback I think. VXL has the longer top plate for misers and doesn't have the bumper. VX presumably is the same with a short top plate? Confusing for a simple man such as I!
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No job too big!
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VX. I think there are only 2 options from Oregon; VX and VXL.
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Oregon 91.
