Adamam

Is there on official tactic for clipping the metal boot clip/clamp onto these saws? Maybe I'm an idiot, but I have never found an easy way to do it. i HATE trying to close these things.

It was a figure of speech. It is actually my head that is fat.

I've got one of those generic ebay specials (paid about £20 a few years ago) like this: 21PC Hand Held Vacuum Pressure Pump Tester Brake Fluid Bleeder Adapters Set Kit | eBay They are pretty sh*t to be frank, and I usually spend as much time coaxing the pump/meter into action as I do doing the actual testing. Thing is, there was (maybe still is) almost nothing available between the cheap and nasties and the expensive, but less nasty. Personally I don't use it enough to merit a posh one.

LOL! I meant 4mm! My fingers are so FAT!!!

Obviously it is almost the one key to rule them all, but which is best? I'm favouring the hoop-type Bondus ones at the moment...

Old Stihl 026 for service and a Husky 235E with a broken brake band and the brake stuck in the 'on' position by the last owner. I wonder how many of the tiny Husky saws get sold/trashed because the owners take the clutch cover off while the brake is on? On the bigger/proper Huskies, you can fairly easily push the cover onto the brake handle enough to click the brake off, but on the tiny/garden-type ones the plastic covers aren't really up to that method so you need to either bodge a socket/scrench or take out the spring and attempt to install the spring with the mechanism in the off position which is lethal/a nightmare! Considering attempting (yet again) to fix the slow oil leak from my 357. I must have removed and reinstalled the oil lines (with and without Hylomar) half a dozen times, but it still oozes when in storage... New lines don't seem (to me) likely to solve the issue. I know this has been covered all over the net a million times, but any noew ideas would be great!

I have always found Chainsawbars to be an excellent shop providing superb service. I was in no way intending to imply anything other than that I am tight-fisted git!

Meteor do a piston and pot for the 064. Used countless meteor pistons and 3 pots (1 Husky, 2 Stihl), all very good. Part is (cc) 1832 I think.

Me three! Got in touch with the local tree surgeon when I moved here a couple of years ago AND OFFERED MONEY for waste that I could buck, split and season (since the local log people I've used are poor IMO) and nothing ever came of it. Oh well.

Free firewood All you need to do it come and cut the trees down and the lumber is yours The 3 Trees are about 60ft tall, I don't know the type but the are massive the base has a circumference of about 4.5m I have easy access for a large lorry and equipment No TPO in place All I ask is that you are suitably qualified to remove these and can prove it firewood logs | eBay :lol::lol::lol:

I reckon they have exactly the same mechanical parts as all the others do, but the plastics have been made to look like a cross between Husky and Echo, and so they charge an extra £50. If you're going to buy a Chinese no-name saw, I'd probably say buy the cheapest one you can find. Otherwise Mitox seems like the best bet. In fact Mitox saws are about the same money as those 'Cobra' saws, but good luck finding spares for the 'Cobra' saws...

Ha! Never noticed! Awesome, thanks!

I have a 357 apart on the bench at the moment. I noticed that the front-most part of the tank/rear handle, where the bottom of the front handle screws on is able to flex as if not attached to the other side...sort of like a toasting fork. You can push down on '1' and up on '2' and they most slightly apart. Is this normal and I just haven't noticed it before? It doesn't look damaged in any way...

Einhell is just another umbrella for Chinese cheapo stuff. The same saws are sold as spear and Jackson, qualcast, b&q etc at different prices. Mitox is supposed to be OK and you can at least get spares from dealers.

Yes, they do apparently although they were very, very sceptical about the existence of a guide bar that requires 59 links! In the end I used Premium Saw Chain and New Saw Chains just to see who was quicker. Both very quick. So for future reference, any of the above!!

If the saw is new, take it back and get them to sort it. Probably carb adjustment and/or idle rate. If not then carb (low) adjustment, or just turning up the idle speed. Or could be a whole bunch of things depending on how 'used' the saw is. Could be fuel hose or filthy carb etc...

:biggrin: Attention to detail!! :lol:

I reckon the plastic would be too brittle. Be spiderwebs of cracks all over...

It's both sort of brilliant, and also sort of stupid and pointless. husqvarna 346xp (Very Rare) (Stihl) (Collector) (Forestry) | eBay

If you're determined to get a cheapo saw, I'd buy one from Lidl or Aldi since at least you'll get a decent 1-3 year warranty. Usually around £70 ish. Mitox are supposed to be ok (and you can get spares) but they're over £100.

Uh...

As above 'seal all'. EBay or amazon and probably lots of other places.

Bend it out and use a good blob of 'seals all'? At least that would be petrol proof. Sugru is magic but not sure about with petrol...

I swapped from small spline to standard and with a new oil drive gear the play is far, far less. Shouldn't be though.

I need a couple of 59DL 16" 3/8 1.5mm chains. Stupid number of links! Anybody know of any online loop maker-upperers? Chainsawbars works out at around £25 for a loop inc postage which is a little rich for my blood...