Adamam

Brill, thanks! I've actually had a nice reply from Al-ko who say that they can supply parts from pre-Al-ko saws, so we'll see. Hopefully!

I wondered if anybody has a UK (or European even) source for Solo parts? Had a look a while ago (not very successfully) but wondered if anybody had encountered any? Cheers!

Any feedback on the 'new' generation of Rototech chains? I see that some people bought them. I'm (and I'm sure others are) interested to know if there's any improvement?

I have the same one as Spud and it's been ace. Pretty robust too. The main drawback with it is that it suffers from only having a single button, so changing any setting is a case of 'cycle through options, then hold button, then count to ten then press button again when flashing...'. Apart from that (and that is only a minor thing) it is very good.

Ebay really. If you want proper parts then Greenstripe or DIYspareparts is usually where I get them. Both are quite expensive for postage, so make sure you get it all in one order! Which parts do you need? I probably have some bits in the parts horror-bin-of-doom.

I've used a couple of these and they've been alright. I've also used 'Archer' and 'Ozaki' and they are of similar quality. All just cheap Chinese chains at similar price-points. I am sceptical about Northern Arb Supplies' ability to dictate quality to a (presumably) large generic Chinese chain manufacturer and so presume that actually these chains are all much of a muchness (which is my experience in use). I might be wrong, but the idea of NAS ringing up Mr Acme Chains China and insisting that the alloy is tweaked for the next batch seems bogus. I would imagine that Acme Chains China produces generic chain for 1000s of customers, and down the road Acme Plastic Packaging China produces 1000s of differently branded chain bags wherein the generic chain can reside. In Turkmenistan there's probably a guy trying to convince local cutters that he's been on the phone to China, and the next batch of SUPER USA SHARP CHAIN will be better. Ol' Billy Hooper at Hooper's Saw Shack is also probably swearing that Saw Shack Chain Hoops are bespoke made to his exacting specifications... I could be completely wrong, obvs. I often am.

Stupidest issue ever! The (new, aftermarket) sleeve for the throttle cable was slightly too long, so the throttle was being held open slightly, even with idle screw all the way out. What a waste of time! Doh! There's probably a lesson there somewhere, but I don't know where...

That's what I bought last time. First one didn't work at all, replacement lasted only slightly longer. If they're cheap enough, maybe I'll chance a third... Stubby, no it doesn't over rev, but there must be an air leak so I would think it's going to soon...

I dunno why I asked really; it's obviously an air leak. The idling is probably just a coincidence. Idling correctly at 1 turn, 2 turns, 3 turns isn't right. Anybody recommend a vacuum/pressure kit that's cheaper than a mityvac and actually works? I spent more time fixing my Chinese one than I did using it!

Apart from air leak, anything else that could bring this about? It's a 372. It idles correctly regardless of screwing OUT the low screw. You can get it to race by screwing it in, but from 1 turn out, it gives the same results regardless. Pressure test pump is borked, so can't test it easily. Crank seals have been changed during the problem with no change in behaviour. Intake boot is new. Cylinder gasket good. Funny.

Thanks chaps! This is good information, particularly as it's a low budget saw. I'll build it with the Zama and see what's what.

Have a 365 that I want to put a big pot on (pot is knackered and open port). Last time I did this I managed to get an HD12, but this time I don't have one. C3m able to supply enough flow for a 372 or even 52mm pot? Cheers Adam

That is ACE! Want one! What have you got sucking the fumes through? Also, have you tested it against a flying Husky clutch?

There's loads of 4-stroking stuff on the net, including (somewhere) a thing with audio files as demonstration. Ultimately it's sort of the 'brrrrrrrrr' sounds as opposed to a scream/whine at higher revs. Sawtooth/square wave (hahahah) as opposed to sine wave in vague audio terms. Or a blasting trombone as opposed to a recorder. Spud is right about a tach being handy (I use one all the time) but it isn't very handy at your current point where you don't yet know optimum rpm. All a tach would tell you is the current rpm, not if it's optimum. Different story for factory settings, obviously.

I think it's generally considered 'safest' to tune relative to '4-stroking' rather than tacho, particularly once the saw is modded. Who knows what the exact, optimum figure of a modded saw is going to be?

I love these saws. I've had a number through and have some used bits if you need anything, including some plastics in both Efco and Oleo flavours (Efco 156/Oleo 956). 2 things to note: 1. CHECK CHECK CHECK clutch cover as they often crack (magnesium) and are super expensive to buy, and massively pain-in-the-arsey to bodge-fix. 2. Put vaseline or something round the edge of the air filter where it meets the housing. as the seal isn't always great.

That's a good result then as the saw looks entirely fixable.

To consider: As a regular eBay seller with two 100% favourable accounts, one with around 1500 transactions, I find it absolutely uncool when (very rarely, thankfully) people have issues with a saw then return it having made various half-arsed attempts to fix it. IMO if you have a problem with an item, you return it or you accept it and sort it out yourself. You absolutely SHOULD NOT poke around trying to fix it, then send it back. Various reasons including further damage, loss of parts, ingress of filth into crank-case etc. Just wanted to mention that as it is a real bete noir of mine, and I'm sure others who sell regularly.

I've sold two saws in the last 6 months (357 and 346) that were in perfect, serviced order but were returned by the buyers (one bad fuel, one feeble idiot who literally couldn't pull over the saw). Both times eBay issued them a full refund and I got shafted. There is absolutely no way that eBay won't give the money back on this saw. Buyer is ALWAYS right in Ebayland.

You out of the 30 return period? I've been screwed a few times by buyers on this recently, but in your case maybe you can make it work in your favour? You don't need to return the saw within 30 days, just start the 'not as described' claim. If you're within the 30 days, you'll definitely win the case as eBay ALWAYS sides with buyer. *grumble grumble grumble*

Usually Cylinder, heat shield, gasket, then exhaust. IPL says that's the case here too. http://bricomeca.free.fr/Stihl/piece_021_023_025.pdf

Have bought Echo parts from Greenstripe in the past.

Go to the Oregon site, use the parts list to look up your chainsaw(s). Once you have the bar numbers, you can use them to cross reference with other, cheaper brands on eBay or various online shops.

Says USA buyers only in the details and the seller (Carol steam motor) is US...