Adamam

Not trying to be an arse, honestly, but: Did you ever try it on 18"?

What's the damage for the Echo? Or for the Dolmars come to that?

I work 60 hours a week humping casks of real ale so my back doesn't have much left to give at evenings/weekends! 7.5kg + bar is pretty heavy I reckon. For 60cc anyway. Not that they aren't brilliant saws, not to mention the best starters ever. Ok, I'll have a look, thanks! I should probably start looking at the older 6400 too although I'm not sure that's any lighter...

Doesn't NEED to be 18", but that seems the perfect size for everything I cut. Largest tends to be around 70cm. One lighter saw that can happily run 18" would be perfect. Actually an MS260 that would happily run 18" would be perfect!

Well, I was hoping to replace the 260 and the 6000 with just one saw; a 60ccish one but lighter. The used prices of a 260 + 6000 doesn't buy much 60cc saw though, even in great working order as they both are...

18" buried is definitely more than the 260 is happy with. 16" is pushing it. I ran a 520 for a bit but they are heavier than a 260 with no power gain.

I cut a fair amount of firewood and currently use a Stihl ms260 and a Dolmar PS6000. I've been using the Dolmar more often than not because the Stihl isn't big enough for a 18" bar which I often need. The Dolmar is doing my back in (7.5kg without bar) which is a shame as it's ace. Also I don't have much money to spare. Apart from an old 036, can anybody suggest something that will run a 17" or 18" bar happily but doesn't weigh so much?

Certainly prevents a crank case full of dust/chips, thus making short work of wrecking new piston/rings/cylinder etc!

It enables the saw to be worn around the neck on a chain. Like Beastie Boys, but chainsaws instead of VW badges. (It isn't; that would be dangerous. And uncomfortable.)

Doesn't have a chain brake. I'm not sure what you mean by support block; sorry if I'm being dim!

Paid £20. It seems to be missing the fanwheel/flywheel, so it's one to sit on the shelf until I stumble across one. For £20, I don't really care if it just stays on the shelf in the workshop looking cool! That said, if anybody wants it for parts, I don't mind breaking it.

Just scored a super-cheap doer-uper which I'll do-up for fun regardless. In use, is this any good on a longer bar than a more modern 60cc saw? I'm just wondering if I would have any actual use out of it since I have (more) modern saws in the 50cc and 60cc range already. Max rpm is 11k? I guess this is too high to put it in the old-skool torquey bracket?

Are the Husky ones the same as the Oregon ones? With the yellow 'storable' spouts? If so then they are CR*P! Mine leaks about 50% of the time and needs the top removing and re-tightening. Absolute rubbish. 0 points.

For reference purposes! I've now tried 3 bars, all of the correct mount and all 'pinch' when the clutch cover (tried two clutch covers, same behaviour) is tightened. Different chains with each bar. All parts are present and correct. The pinch point is directly above the oiler-hole and can be tested by trying to pull the chain away from the bar at that point (you can't because it is pinched!). Solution; Changed rim sprocket, but not to a new one (don't have one to hand). The newly fitted one is slightly older than the removed one. Removed and cleaned/scrapped the metal shields on the clutch cover and crank case. Took a fine metal file and filed/checked for irregularities on the flat clamp-faces that holed the bar. Filed gently across the bar where it is clamped to check for flatness/true. I don't know what fixed it as none of the above showed any obvious problems, but now it runs absolutely fine. Seems unlikely to have been the sprocket though IMO, so probably a 'bump' or some gunk trapped somewhere in the 'clamp-face' causing uneven pressure on the bar? Really, really annoying problem!!

Nothing missing as far as I can see. I have 2 almost identical saws so it's pretty easy to check... The only think I haven't tried is changing the sprocket, but I can't really see what difference that would make. I'm 99.9% sure the chain is being pinched.

Possibly stupid issue/question. To cut a long story short, when I tighten the clutch cover FULLY, the bar/rail is pinched and the chain doesn't want to move. This happens on two bars, one of which has never been used on this saw before today. I think therefore the issue isn't the bar(s). Saw: Dolmar ps6000i. Chain: 3/8 pitch chain. Mounting codes on the bars are 17" B083 and 15" K095. The 15" one should be 153, but they are the same mount really (if anything the 153 mount would be more likely to pinch as it has a narrower 'tail'), and anyway it happens with both bars... The pinching occurs directly above the oiler hole where I guess movement is most possible because of the lack of metal/oil duct. I am baffled.

I would be genuinely interested to know what saws Chinese loggers use. I doubt they use Stihl etc since it would be the equivalent to 6 months wages...(like here!!)

Trying to get payment info from you...

Well, hopefully Mr TCD is going to sort me out! I had a Mak 6800 for a bit but sold it to a friend who is obsessed with those blue tools. Wish I had kept it.

Fantastic, thanks! The coil is OK afaik, but I'm missing the clutch, and various 'stop washers' that sit behind the clutch. The cylinder is also scored. If you have one with a decent pot and piston and the clutch intact then I'd be very interested, depending on price obviously! Thanks again! Adam

Just on the off-chance that anybody has a broken ps6000/ps6800 under the proverbial bench that they might want to sell. I have one I want to fix, but it's only viable if I can find donor/used parts. Also considered would be a 116si or a 120si as I think they share plenty of parts... Cheers!

156 is ace. Old skool, like a husky 254xp. Screams. 165 is the same saw with more grunt but lower revs. Both better built than current Stihl or Husky IMO but heavier for it. I don't think anything smaller than those are built to 'pro' specs so daft to compare. 152 etc are plasticy consumery saws albeit well regarded ones.

A mystery then! Also a mystery is why they made the metering arm adjustment screw out of cheese/petals/chocolate/whatever instead of metal as normal!

Greenstripe for Husky parts IMO. Just put the MS260 back together with the WTE kit (thanks to GardenKit!). To go over this again, is there really no official meter arm height? I tightened it all the way and it wasn't happy, then slackened it off 'a bit' and now it runs fine, but I'm not entirely satisfied with the 'sticking up a bit' non-science! Given that Walbro has a meter arm height for everything else, I wonder why not with the WTE? Odd!

This! Thanks for that, I hadn't noticed how badly the arm fits. Have bent it as proof of concept, and will replace. Thanks again!