dervishcarving
-
Posts
1,061 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by dervishcarving
-
when it comes to simple shrooms as stools etc for schools i use whatever i have handy. I dont charge for them (my game after all) but i dont oil them, i just sand them down and leave so they can paint them.
-
lovely set of hooters there Si
-
no, i think they will work on a few models, 170, 180, maybe others but i got mine on a 170. not sure what the price is now, you would have to contact harald to ask
-
if you look at my thread on this forum from a few weeks back (Waves) you will see the base of the piece was carved with my Harycane. the inventor's facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/harald.kuhnt.7
-
Its a power gouge, smaller than the edder power gouge, little bigger than the little hos. A chainsaw with a "bar" that has 2 discs at the end mounted vertically and driven by a band not a chain. the discs each have 2 'teeth' (circular shaped toughened cutters). fantastic for mas-removal of wood, hollowing out and also for great textures (water, fur, fire etc). Not cheep but well worth the money (in my not-very humble opinion ). can also be used for bark removal but i rarely bother removing the bark, just carve through it unless its full of stones or unless you need to do a lot of marking out.
-
I got it a couple of years back now, I emailed Harrold directly and then did a bank transfer, it was before he started his shop. the price he sold the ms170 for (brand new) was about teh same as i would have paid so it was definitely worth it. Just takes a little time
-
i bought mine complete with a ms170, saved all that messing about and was well worth it
-
what area? I suspect it not scotland -
what kind of ornaments do you want on your balls steve? 4-5 inches?? those are pretty big balls
-
keep the 181 the 180 beats teh 170 hands down so i would assume the 181 beats teh 171
-
i SAW this on facebook, looking sharp
-
Anything is better than nothing, but that only goes so far. Do the Lantra course I would say. cs 30/31. gives you excellent basics of use and maintenance of the saw but not felling. I would say that if its YOUR woodland then you will likely have to deal with fallen, falling, windblown, snagged trees so you need to do teh fellign course too (forget what teh code is). Yes they wilc ost a bit but you will learn stuff, useful stuff that might save your life so whats that worth?
-
Hey chaps. thanks for the comments. Mr Rental, no I rarely use paint (only on pieces for children). Its a personal choice of course but i think paint/stain rarely adds anything to a good carving and can easily make them look 'cheep'. sometimes it works but not often. I prefer the natural colour so I just oil them. The harrycane is still a prototype i think but it might be in official production now. the chap who makes them is a German called Harald Kuhnt. Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/harald.kuhnt.7 great for all kinds of stuff. removign lots of wood and hollowing out (i used it to hollow under the wave crest for eg) and different scaloped effects, fire and water as well as furr effects I like it a lot. hard work, pulls like a beast and chucks big sharp chips back at you but worth the money. hundreds and hundreds but well worth it
-
Finished this a couple weeks back and I kinda like it. Wanted to try to add interest to the base so went for a wave, used the Harrycane for it and it worked great Douglas Fir, un-oiled in the photos but I have since oiled (decking oil) which darkens it a little but not much, adds a depth to the grain effects thanks for looking
-
This is Tim's refil idea square section of metal (box section) with a screw fitted to each side. 2 strips of abrasive (hole in each) held in place with the screws simple but works well This one has a finer abrasive, i prefer the 40 grit stuff, i like how it allows different effects
-
Tim Klock made the metal center for mine but I will open it up and show you how it looks first chance i get. I will also ask him where he got it for ya. he can probably bring one to carrbridge. In the meantime i used to slot the new lengths of sandpaper behind the last bit (2 inches) of the origional lengths and put it back together. works but the last few inches of the replacement lengths do tend to fly out as for the abrasive-strips i got it from [email protected] 1 roll sandpaper 50 m for 40,00 EUR + shipping 17,00 EUR + 19 % VAT 10,83 EUR All together 67,83 EUR - for 1 roll thats a heck of a lot of sandpaper the width is twice the sandoflex width so you have 100m worth of sandoflex paper. I guess each refill is about 50 - 20 cm of paper so you can make...er....quick adding up...500 or so refils for £50 or so... cheep
-
No worries, its why these forums are here.. it cant all just be us showing off our latest pieces
-
The proffessional version of what you are looking for is called a sand-o-flex. They are not cheep (about £35 from Sand-O-Flex). The refils are a tad pricey but I bought a roll of 20m or so of the abrasive stuff from Germany (cant remember exactly where from but i could look it up if you need_ and you make your own refils with a bit of box-section steel. Well worth the money if you ask me, with practice you can get some great effects (i do differential sanding and combine it with scorching to get a range of colours). Or you can get a long bolt, cut a load of sandpaper strips, hole in each stril and thread onto teh bolt (alternate which side is up) and then tighten a nut to hold in place before using that with a drill. Works but not as well (my opinion at least)
-
great to see him finished
-
i like the sugi hama gloves that Rob D has
-
before you do mill it, see if you can find a local Elm-veneer dealer. I know one up here in Aberdeenshire but no idea of any others. If you can find one you might find teh value to them is more than the value of milling.
-
i did warn you when you were up seeing me, you start with not much kit but suddenly you need a Van!
-
So highlands is ok? just not islands? Aberdeen maybe???
-
that is splendid
-
most of the advice has already been said but i would add...start small, a small stihl (ms170 or 180) will set you back around £150 with a 14 inch bar or similar. you dont need much bigger than that for now. as you start going bigger you might want to get more saws but see how you get on first. trawling back through the pages of threads here will save you a load of questions, there cant be many that havent been asked already a few times over the past few years as a beginner (working on smaller pieces) you wont be working above shoulder height (not a good idea anyway) and so learning about kickback and how to avoid it is better than looking for a neck shield. avoid cheep saws, they last hours at best and cost you more in the end. for a small saw i would suggest stihl (as above) as you go larget (as you progress) then husky give you more bang for your buck
