Tom10

I have thought and thought what to write here. However I seem to be going round in circles. To sum up. Pollards are brilliant, reductions are brilliant, crown thinning is brilliant, and in some circumstances when a tree must be removed, replanting is brilliant. Lets forget the nanny state we live in and look to europe's Pollard lined streets and see with our own eyes the effect of good reductions. End of topic? Tom.

Maybe it just needs an expert tinker before leaving the shop then? I will leave that in the capable hands of arb suppliers like yourself - but it doesnt seem to be the only negative feedback. But, after suck a successful 020 and 200 im sure Stihl will sort the teething problems and it will be a fine bit of kit. Tom

I do agree one of the faults with the 200T is the exhaust plastic! Its shocking - but everything must be allowed 1 fault I think of it as a really attractive girl with webbed toes - yeah its a pitfall - but would you kick her out of bed? The handle plastic on the 201 seems to fail according to users (refer to previous posts) Fair point regarding the plastic - my 200T is an 2005 model and clearly lacks this, but I have never had a problem with sticks getting inbedded and causing problems? This pieve of plastic on the 201 deffinately seems to be failing and leaving a gaping entry hole for projectiles into the wires as you said above. Tom

I agree, to a degree - I havent spent too much time with it so im not saying it cant be made to run perfectly, but of all the people who have had the same experience as me, one of them must of had a tinker with it - but it doesnt seem anyone has got anywhere... Maybe a resident chainsaw buff on here should spend a few hours with it and then re-post. Tom.

Nothing? More the quality of it (as said in this thread before simple knocks are causing cracks) - However, if you look at the saw head on (straight down the bar) underneath the chain brake is a little flimsy white bit of plastic (that I dont recal my 200T having) that I have heard is breaking on the saws causing internal problems. I simply have an old mans attitude to this. I love the 200T and the newer model doesnt seem to do the old one justice. I do however think in 6 months time Stihl will adapt and modify the saw so it will be the next best thing, but this remains to be seen. Tom

Used one Flimsy plastic that looks like it will take no flack (and from evidence on here, clearly doesn't) No guts Slow to full revs (I actually thought it was a turbo diesel.......) Wouldnt warm start without choke Dare I say roll on husky to brill out their new model? They havent got much to beat this time (at least if they hurry before Stihl tighten the thing up from feedback) For now its ebays range of 200T's. A new bar and chain, a bit of TLC = one reliable top handle Tom

You had that coming...? Most lunchtimes by the sounds of it.....................

Agree.

Your 'spirally' willow is a Contorted willow. They are often heavily reduced / pollarded and take this treatment well (as most willows do) if it is done correctly. I would suggest to reduce all of the growth back to the knuckles with clean cuts using secateurs / a sharp hand saw every couple of years. Don't leave stubs but don't also cut into the knuckle itself. I would suggest anytime from about November to March as an ideal time - I dont think you would cause it too much harm doing it now but if its not causing anyone any problems then you could just leave it until this winter. In regards to the Mimosa Im not a buff on these and have little experience with them... I dont know about other arbs on here?... I found this online 'This fast-growing, deciduous tree has a low branching, open, spreading habit and delicate, lacy, almost fern-like foliage. Fragrant, silky, pink puffy pompom blooms, two inches in diameter, appear from late April to early July creating a spectacular sight. But the tree produces numerous seed pods and harbors insect (webworm) and disease (vascular wilt) problems. Although short-lived (10 to 20 years), Mimosa is popular for use as a terrace or patio tree for its light shade and tropical look' In reference to your pruning cuts question you are correct, you need to cut to the branch bark collar or branch bark ridge - the collar is usually easy to see, and the ridge you simply need to cut perpendicular to the branch angle and mirror image the angle of the ridge itself - leaving it stubby is bad practice and flush cutting is just as bad. Its minimum standards to get these cuts correct. Obviously this is a brief and fundamental guide and knowing where to aim your saw when target pruning comes with experience! theres no 10mm rule of thumb, some collars are tiny and some several inches into the branch dependent on species / previous work etc. If in doubt contact a local Arb on here, and subcontract the work out? Im sure someone is in your area... Good luck.

I already have an answer to my own question here, however would like a cross section of answers from other climbers using the power of Arbtalk... When tying the end of your lanyard rope to a krab, what knot do you use, and why? Secondly, when using a distel / pulley system on the other end of said lanyard, what knot do you use at the end of the rope to stop it passing through the pulley and friction hitch? On an unrelated note - those of you using a basic hitch-climber set up do you prefer the middle eye or top eye of the HC to clip your krab on your standing line to? Tom

Some great, correct and valid replies but when looking at the original post everythings swerving off topic slightly. The answer to Pos's question in my opinion is why the BEJEESUS would he spend thousands on a chipper at this stage. He hasnt yet completed a 30/31... Aim your funds at completing all of your basic courses (30/31/38/39), getting some decent PPE, buying a decent saw, buying a climbing kit, buying public liability insurance and of course a decent reliable set of wheels. In time of course I agree with Huck - a chipper for a busy, professional outfit is an incredibly useful bit of kit and fundamental on most jobs... but I think that this comes months after having fundamental arb equipment and of course a steady stream of work to put the chipper to use... I would be hesitant to buy a chipper to exchange this for work experience. I could see you spending a lot of time chipping for other people, then chipping some more... and some more chipping... and a bit more.... for no decent money in your pocket to cover the cost of said chipper and of course an expensive asset thats just going out to other peoples jobs... If you gain the items I list above (Im sure others will have ideas on basic kit too) then Im sure you'd be more of an asset to an arb company in respect of gaining experience - you can turn up on jobs with PPE, the insurance to do the work, and basic equipment and youd more than likely learn a larger cross section of work. Good luck in a rewarding career!

At least I worded it nicely.....

Leave them at home and put your climbing kit inside the truck - problem solved I joke - they are useful in some circumstances and dont wish to upset the ladder brigade (I even use them myself, sometimes) I vote on drivers side, doesnt bash hedges on country lanes and easy to get on / off Tom

Ditto - with the addition of a small first aid kit (just incase I ever join the Silky club ) and a rock climbers chalk bag to store side strop in

Yeah, I really wish I had photographed it before - but since it was pollarded you can imagine the epicormic growth and all of the dead wood behind hidden behind it! Looked a staggering amount better for it - shame you'll just have to believe me due to the fact I forgot a photo!

Crown thinned this willow - gorgeous weather, hanging over a river watching the ducks chasing eachother about and going 'quackers' - whats better? certainly no office job for me... No 'before' pic for comparison, The contractor who I was climbing for said the customer wanted it thinned and not re-pollarded (as you can see its been done before by another contractor) Came out lovely, shame the comparison cant be seen - lot of dead wood removed and bulky weight (3/4 of a transit of chippings) and kept a decent shape. Growth coming from the previous work is coming nicely in places but I think a re-pollard may be due after another year of monitoring it. Hard to reach the extremities of the branches with its weeping low bendy branches - all good fun though...

PM sent.

As said already if the'yre dangerous then felling is obviously sensible. I would suggest taking pictures of the logwood if infection / fungi / dead wood is visible then phone the FC and inform them and provide the pics if they want evidence - also try and ascertain whether the tree's were even large enough to be over your allowed limit anyway... I don't think your lightening story is particuarly plausible and would avoid this considering your probably on the right side of the law anyway...

Komet dragonfly? Only one I would ever buy after such good experience with it

Good harness - the only thing I didnt like was the rigid seat. I prefer the slight flex in a komet dragonfly, especially when trying to squeeze through a fork in the tree! in the Sequoia I resembled a dog with a large stick trying to fit through a gate Tom

Agree.

Exactly right - you cannot complete 39 without 38 and anyone your likely to need to show it to should know this i.e. insurance company. Still - for the sake of a call would be worth getting the certificate... Tom.

I have no valuable input but great analogy!

That's OK - as long as I'm not losing my marbles!