pleasant

We use that colour description of how a mix should look to help the weekend warriors. Not cherryade, more salmon pink is correct. It does help them to understand.....plus upselling a measuring bottle! 😆👍

Had a guy once who seized a sprocket nose up in one weekends use. Blued the rails as well. It was a new saw we sold him- came in with the bar and demanded a new one. Looked at it and sure enough it had generated a lot of heat- guy was adamant he had put oil in the chain reservoir as he had bought a litre of it from us when he purchased the saw and said there was still oil in the reservoir after he had issues with the bar. Told him we needed the whole saw, bar and chain brought in for us to investigate. First thoughts were oiler not oiling. When it came in all looked like it should do- except when we drained the chain reservoir the oil that came out was bright red. Rang the guy, and said looks to us like you've put 2 stroke oil in the chain oiler. He said that's the oil I got from you' Yes, we said, but this is the oil you mix with the fuel- not for lubricating the chain. 'oh' he said, 'I thought the same oil did both!'

Yup, spot on Spud

I was trained by stihl many moon ago when it comes to describing failures and the reporting thereof. A weak mix is the pre mix entering the tank. A lean mix or leaned out mix is a mix that has been weakened by the introduction of too much air via carburettor adjustment and/or air leakage

A weak mixture is a weak mixture. If it goes in the tank to begin with with less oil than it should have to give proper protection then its a weak mix irrelevant. Adjusting the carb will reduce the amount of mix or increase it, compared to air ratio, but it wont change the ratio of mix in the machine as the two are pre-mixed already. It wont add more oil if the mix is incorrect to begin with. Ie it wont change the mix ratio.....unless you have a machine like a moped of old whereby you could manually increase or decrease the volume of oil entering the fuel via a seperate reservoir. When you adjust your H and L settings on your carb, all you are doing is altering the air/ fuel mix ratio. Not the oil/petrol mix ratio.

.....but we are talking about pro saws. Not blowers and grass trimmers. 'Strimmers' is a brand name of black and decker btw

No thats incorrect.

But isn't that a contradiction of terms? A weak mixture is a mix with less oil added, therefore less lubrication. Less lubrication equals more heat and a thinner protective oil film. Like someone has already mentioned.......a leak down test should have been done to find an air leak before it was re-build last time. IMO

May not be a problem with the power unit, but Stihl have had supply issues regarding bars all this year......a lot of my customers been waiting for bars, for several months. Here you go: Issues affecting the availability of STIHL products WWW.STIHL.CO.UK Issues affecting the availability of STIHL products

Im sure you could think of a way of keeping it warm for longer mate. 😄

A dead hooker rolled up in carpet makes an ideal cab heater this time of year for you truckers surely? 😁

He's quite inexperienced simon. Met him in a bar and bought him a couple of drinks. Not very chatty and I had to make the first move....said thanks in the morning though. Is that the kind of experience info you are looking for? 😘👍

If only they thought the same eh??

Err...is that the front or the back? 🤣

As long as you agree with them and their beliefs that is.

That cylinder looks pretty bad from what I can make out in that pic. If you are going to all that effort with an entire strip down and replacing all those parts at all that cost, and you are happy to fit an aftermarket piston, then I would invest in a new aftermarket cylinder while you're at it. Used 880's go for around the £800 mark, and with those, you don't know the history and may well end up with a pup that still needs money throwing at it- after all it is rare a professional user is happy to sell a good saw if there's nothing wrong with it. At least, you may well be spending near to £800 on this one, but afterwards you will know it's good to go.

A log roof?

Could you not have used one of these, or am I getting confused with which 'ends' you require. This is from the HT131 and is a seperate component on the end of the inner drive tube and is the square drive that connect to the head. 4182+740+3501 - Recherche Google WWW.GOOGLE.COM Driver for Stihl HT100, HT101 - 4182 740 3501 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Driver Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 4182 740 3501 Suitable for the following Stihl Machines: HT 100, HT 101, HT 130, HT... It's a simple press fit in the end of the inner alloy tube

I don't understand the logic in making two good machines into one poor 'hybrid' Like others have said, you could grind down the splined shaft to fit into the square drive on the Stihl, but it will mean weakening it with a reduction in metal and heat during grinding. Last thing you need is a weak link in the drive train. Seen this bodge done before (only because one of the donor machines had a knackered engine) and when it shears off in the Stihl end of the shaft you'll have fun trying to remove that. Added to the fact the 'adaption' of the shaft has to be absolutely spot on otherwise you will get elliptical rotation which can cause premature wear to bearings and also vibration through the length of the machine. In the end potentially you could end up with two machines with issues instead of two good machines to begin with and the only reason for doing this is to save cost (and weight) It's a lot of faffing about for not a lot of reward, and personally I consider it cost wise it is a false policy, but that's just my opinion.

Worth checking the fuel pick up hose as well. Had a machine in last week. Same symptoms and turned out the fuel pipe was deteriorating and allowing air in which leaned it off under high rpms and it cut out. Would restart and on idle fine but do same again when trying to accelerate. New hose cured it. If its not fuel then look at the module...these can break down under load and heat over time. Again, had machines that would start fine but cut out under load and the modules do occasionally do this an fail. As youve changed the plug we can assume its not that.

I will be calling my Husky parts supplier this morning then and ask them what they are playing at. Potentially I could have lost a repair if that had been one of my customers enquiring.

Admittedly I haven't been a Husky main dealer for a good few years, so now go through an intermedary for husky parts and that's what they tell me . I stand to be corrected though

Agree. I would do the same. My earlier comment about replacing them was on the assumption the OP is not a repairer/dealer, but the operator/owner of the saw

Obsolete from Husqvarna. Last price I've got for it is £111.12 plus vat.

for peace of mind and knowing it won't fail when you're trying to earn from it, then for £15 it's a no brainer