pleasant

Not this then? Maybe a bit late, but fits the description

Yes spud. We started taking them in years ago as we were getting so many coming in it seemed silly to turn away custom. In the long run it cost us money and some of our reputation for good, reliable workmanship. Usually took three or four attempts to get them right (well, as right as they would ever be) we couldn't realistically charge how long it took us for each one, so got paid just the once for less than we could normally charge.then ended up having another go three times following after they came back with the same issues...all at no charge as the customer quite rightly said it was the same problem it was in with only a few weeks before. You then had these customers moaning to their circle that we can't fix a simple homebase chainsaw so 'don't trust them with your stihl' was what was being bandied about. In the end i took a blanket decision to take nothing on from these retailers or online sellers that were generic budget stuff with zero spares availability or proper manufacturer support. Trying to explain to a customer you simply cannot economically improve on design, tolerances and quality of these things if it's not there to begin with is impossible...they think you are being awkward ir even 'snobby' had someone say 'so it's not good enough for you to work on then......not everyone can afford what you want to sell!' Sometimes it IS cheaper to say no to begin with

You will be lucky if you ever get it to run 'right' they never did from new. Always used to see a load of those come in on a Monday after being purchased from homebase on the Saturday. Sorry to say.....they're landfill.

Not always the case...certainly not in todays range- as you can see: MS 251 Petrol Chainsaw - Top range domestic saw, the optimum choice for property maintenance WWW.STIHL.CO.UK Perfect for harvesting firewood in the forest ✓ Or check out the MS 251 C-BE model with Quick Chain Tensioning and...

Stihl catalogues past and present categorise their saw range from home owner, to landscaper/farmer, through to forestry use (full pro) Just goodle and you will find copies of the relevant catalogues. Out of those list of models in your last sentence, they are all pro users saws except for the 392, which is a landscaper/farmer saw.....basically a beefed up and more powerful homeowner saw. Plastic carriage and body with a cheap to make clamshell engine. Domestic saw. Occasional use in a homeowner environment. Lighter use. Cutting logs for a wood burner, bit of limbing and pruning. Felling up to say 14cm dia on occasions. Lanndscaper/farmer saw. Designed for more use generally heavier and to be use part of someones job rather than full time. Such as a gardener....or a farmer Pro saws. For full time money earning use, where a chainsaw constitutes pretty much the sole purpose of the occupation. From toppimg/pruning,right up to heavy logging/processing requirements

Where schofields concerned is 'back garden' a euphemism?

Load a pickup truck with 5 tonnes of stuff instead of a tonne and you will get a similar result. Will very slowly shift the load from A to B a few times, but will prematurely wear out the clutch, bearings, mounts, gearbox and engine as well as the chassis. And should you eventually go back to just shifting a tonne, the truck will be loose, rattly and will feel much older than its years.

Absolutely spot on for a mulching blade (or shredcut blades as Stihl refer to them) Only models where they recommend the shredcut blades can be fitted are: FS361, FS411, FS461, FS491 (270mm) and FS561 (320mm) You fit it to any other models in the range, then you invalidate warranty and can seriously damage the drivetrain as a result....hence why they won't warranty it.

Well done. That is very much a mate rate for that job 👍

The way i read the op's question it appears he wants to turn it into some sort of lawn. I dont see anywhere in his requirements that he wants a flower meadow, or hay...he wants to cut and collect the grass

That wont be any good unless its a lawn to begin with. It wont make a field into a lawn, but it will keep a lawn a lawn which is short, free of multiple rough dips and undulation that you normally see with tufted clumps of course field grass.

If its a field then i dont understand the issue of a rough finish and grass clippings? If you want to turn it into a useable recreational lawn, then that is understandable, but as with any lawn it needs regular cutting, and cutting quite short. If you do this on a regular basis instead of leaving it to grown back up again, then it will take less time and fewer cuttings. Most large commercial mowers dont collect as in municiple areas they are designed for, a good finish isnt an issue, and not collecting cutting or even mulching (which encourages thatch and then moss) isnt a worry. Very few mowers of the size you have collect as well. There are only two makes that are specifically made for our type of grass and the fact we prefer to collect rather than cut and drop or mulch, and they are westwood or countax. Countax being the premium version of westwwods. They all have a powered collector on the rear and come in cut sizes up to 50" if memory serves. They also have a high cut deck option as well as mulch or side discharge. Being a domestic product they are not priced as high as a commercial machine either. I had one which was a 36" cut with a honda engine for my acre paddock which i occasionally used to collect the grass when we were entertaining and did a great job. Rest of the time i let a farmer graze his sheep in it! C80 garden tractor - Countax WWW.COUNTAX.CO.UK The powered grass collector: Extend the use of your Countax with a range of garden tractor accessories WWW.COUNTAX.CO.UK Achieve much more from your Countax riding mower with a range of garden tractor accessories and attachments... This set up does everything you need.

Depends rather as to what data you are after. All owners handbooks for those two models are available to download quite easily. They generally cover all specifications of variants. Or you can easily find WSM- workshop manuals, which again cover specifications....and more generally. Here's some examples; https://cdnassets.stihlusa.com/1625858305-stihl-ms-024-owners-instruction-manual.pdf https://cdnassets.stihlusa.com/1625858539-036manual.pdf https://f01.justanswer.com/mr2cycle/00ec7dbc-1b68-4744-8943-6eea80b25430_STIHL+034%2C036%2C036QS.pdf https://manualzz.com/doc/24750493/stihl-024--026

use the carb spray or brake cleaner trick. Get it started and if you can get it to a set speed on idle, then using one of those thin long tubes on your spray can gently spray around the machine in areas, such as the flywheel, clutch area, manifold...avoid anywhere near the air intake though. If you have an air leak the revs will increase from where you have it set as it will scavenge the carb spray and will richen you fuel. it's a start if you haven't got leak down equipment

No worries. It was said in jest. Good luck

I was sceptical as to why this would happen and just spoke to a dealership who do extensive servicing as well and they confirmed it. I am very pleased you now believe what I stated....and as a dealership myself I am also pleased another dealership also knows this issue 😇

If you have been running a machine on pump fuel (with ethanol or not) then running the same machine on aspen can ruin the carb diaphragms so be careful doing what you suggest.

Well done. 👍

Agree.....its the quality of that, that's the issue. Not necessarily the design

Google esso premium unleaded its all ethanol free.....except for supply to some garages in the west country for some reason supply them with either e5 or e10 the same as everyone else. It seems it is only esso premium that is ethanol free of the petrol retailers

When leaded fuel was stopped and unleaded came in, all that was needed to allow Suffolk punches (for example) was to change to a different spark plug (J8) Briggs were the same..being air cooled they run hotter than water cooled engines already, so the lack of lubrication and cooling from lead in the fuel wasn't an issue. Having ethanol E5 or E10 makes no difference either....they run on both. It's the shelf life before it starts to go 'stale' and also absorb moisture that is the issue with ethanol........more ethanol in the fuel, the more moisture from the atmosphere it will absorb. It also lowers slightly the combustibility of even fresh E5 or E10....the more ethanol added reduces it's combustion properties, which makes small engines more difficult to fire, and use more fuel whilst running because of it.

What's the compression like. What mixture ratio oil are you using? Have you taken the plug out to see if it's oiled or coked up. If so.....particularly if it's coked up, the gap between electrodes can get reduced due to carbon. Clean it right up or replace and re-fit. If it's very oily then it indicates a very rich mix currently or it has been used in the past with a rich mix. Not only can it oil the plug up, but importantly it can block up the muffler (spark arrester or not) which decreases power..that's if it will start at all. If you think its been run on a rich mix for sometime, then remove the muffler and run it without it fitted...long enough to see whether that overcomes your issues. This will also give you the opportunity to inspect the condition of the piston...which could also be an issue. I wouldn't automatically start stripping down a carb just yet.

Use Esso fuel......they don't add ethanol to it. Unless you are in certain parts of the West country. Just google it. Save you a fortune in aspen

Those blower engines are prone to crank bearings breaking up and trashing the crank seals

Yes...they are also developing a petrol powered chainsaw that a battery saw can plug into, which will recharge the battery