GardenKit

Thanks Gerbutt. Aspen fuel is only available through the dealer network. Anglo American will not supply direct to end users. But there are now around 300 dealers in the UK, 100 of which are service centres. Service centres offer the very best in service and advice on Aspen. We are just one of these dealers, and have the honour of being one of the very first service centres to be appointed We would encourage prospective users to place their orders with their local dealer, after all its only fair. But in the event that the local dealer is for some reason out of favour, or if there simply is no local dealer, then we are more than happy to supply. We already supply customers throughout the UK so would be more than happy to supply Steve. 800 litres is a considerable amount ( 4 x200litre barrels, or around 3 x pallets of 5 litre cans) so we would be happy to discuss a very good price via PM or email.

I don't want to be too critical, or damning of others methods, but, in my opinion blanking off the accelerator pump is not so much a 'mod', as a 'bodge'. (I must admit I too have done this bodge in the past) The pump is there for a reason, and that is too overcome the 'flat spot' which occurs in the transition from running on the idle jet, to running on the main jet as the butterfly is opened. At idle the flow through the carburetor is low. Some of the fuel is evaporated and some remains liquid at the bottom of the intake pipe. Suddenly opening the throttle will give an immediate air flow increase to the cylinder. The evaporated fuel follows the air flow, but the liquid fuel takes longer to increase its speed. This means that the first second after opening the throttle, the engine will get a lot of air but very little fuel and the response is bad. This is compensated for by the acceleration pump in the carburettor. Remove this pump and you need to compensate to some degree by richening up the idle L screw, which sort of works but cannot be done in production because of emission regs. Why not simply repair the accelerator pump?

Post up a few on your wish list and we will comment on them and their alternatives. There is little point in us recommending a 28" rider if you want a 54" tractor.

Hi Hairy. I have seen several machines run on diesel and there has never been any damage. Your scoring predates the diesel issue.

Don't listen to the sceptics Mark. They really do work, honest. Bioflows are by by far the best with their double pole magnets.

To be honest Karl, the carb could be at fault, but there could be other iSues which need addressing. Such as low compression or possibly a coked exhaust. Also, if you strip a carb you need to fit new diaphragms or its a waste of time

Update. They must have liked it because they have just ordered their second pallet.:big grin: This stuff is selling like hot cakes now.

Too busy at work for boating Steve, its only got wet once this year!

I have done hundreds of walbro's but cannot recall one with the metal throttle arm. I guess they will be the same as the others though and if they are indeed adjustable the needle with the slot in it will be under the plastic plug. As my learned colleague Spud says, pull the plug out with a very small self tapper. I do this a lot so rather than fiddling with a screw and a pair of pliers I welded a screw to an old screwdriver.

Hi Egg As said, check the valve clearances as if they are too slack the decompressor will not function, and the valves will also not be open long enough for proper scavenging. If they are too tight true valves may not fully close. The backfire is only actually a 'BACKFIRE" if it occurs through the carb and is a result of timing issues, but this is rare on this engine as the timing is not adjustable. Tight valves can effect the timing though as the valves could be open too long, or not close at all, allowing the incoming fuel to ignite in the inlet manifold and 'fire back', hence the term 'backfire' More commonly, what is often wrongly referred to as a backfire is actually an 'after burn' and results from unburnt fuel being ignited in the exhaust. Causes can be too rich a mix, or incorrect valve clearances. Explosions from the exhaust are never a true 'backfire' The 'hunting' is quite common on these engines but should be possible to tune it out as long as the jets are clean in the carb and the valves are OK.

Do NOT take out the flower shaped thing. Its a non return valve and is not repairable or replaceable. In fact don't take any jets out of that bit. Post a pic of the top of the carb body. The one I posted is a genuine walbro, the one you have looks like a chinese copy and may be non adjustable. I guess this is on a recent Homelite blower and if so its a cheap chinese product sold by B&Q. Don't spend too much money on it.

Ha!:biggrin:

Ok, so this barrel type carb has the little gauze and also has a small brass jet in the centre of the main body under the pump diaphragm. it can be popped out with the tip of a very small screwdriver or tip of a knife. Make sure the hole through the middle is clean. Some of these are non adjustable, but some do have an adjustable needle in the centre of the throttle body. No images of the jet in the main body, but the needle may be found in the central hole in this image.

Another instance of fuel problems found in pump fuel. This fuel was only about 90 days old but has gone into a stage known as 'phase separation' which occurs when the ethanol content has absorbed its own weight in water. This happens when petrol is kept in a vented tank or can, in damp conditions, and does not take long to occur. Once formed, the gel like solids will not dissolve even if shaken, they just sit there in suspension and block filters and jets.

I'm with Spud on this, give the carb a more thorough clean, paying particular attention to the gauze filter. Remove the jets and flush with some carb cleaner (not high pressure air). Don't bother cleaning the tank breather, just test it by blowing and sucking, it should let air in but not out. If the tank gauze is blocked it could be sawdust type stuff which is easily identified, but could be a gel like substance that looks a bit like vaseline. If its the latter then its a result of phase separated fuel. This is not only found on old and stale fuel but can occur even on fairly fresh fuel that has been exposed to a damp atmosphere where the ethanol content has absorbed its weight in water which it can do quite quickly. The images are a bit difficult to see, but you may make out a whispy cloudiness in the fuel which is the separated fuel and this fuel was less than 3 months old and smelt fresh. Shaking the mix only stirs up the solids, they do not dissolve.

If the the gauze was gunked up then i'll bet that the problem still lies in the carb. There are some non adjustable carbs, but many more that appear non adjustable to those who do not know where to look. And those who don't know where to look may not know where to clean. Post up a pic of the carb and a bit more help may be forthcoming.

I had one in a year or two back with exactly the same issue Kevin. It would start easily and tickover for ever, but the moment the throttle was touched it just died. I tried all the things you did with the same result. Eventually changed the coil and it was perfect.

Usually find that the things I do not know are not in the service manual either.

I wonder what colour it will be?

Sure are. And so unnecessary, should have been made better in the first place.

Well, that was another fun hour:001_rolleyes:

I have used Helicoil spark plug repairs many time successfully. You actually don't need to drill and tap for Helicoil, as the kits contain a 'double tap'. The lower end is a std 14mm plug thread which follows the old thread and guides in the larger tap size to take the helicoil. But I have also had an epic fail, when the original thread was so badly damaged that the 'double tap' did not guide itself in straight. In fact it did the opposite and guided nicely to an angle, and once started on the wrong track it was impossible to correct. This one required drilling and tapping for an oversize steel insert. See post 8136 on the 'whats on my bench' thread http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/33857-whats-your-bench-today-814.html

Clear now.

Aspen 2 FRT was developed to meet the needs of new generation saws, especially huskie. Huskie market Aspen2 themselves with their own logo added to the can

In most cases there are no issues, but there are very slight differences in the density of Aspen and petrol, so in just a few cases it may ne necessary to retune the 'L' screw (normally just a fraction of a turn counterclockwise to richen the mix a tiny bit) Also it's possible that if prolonged exposure to petrol has degraded the fuel lines, they may shrink a little after a while on Aspen. The problems that may encountered are very small and easy to fix. New saws that have not been exposed to petrol, or have only seen a little, will have no issues at all. The benefits are a gain and worth the pain, go on, Aspenate now, you know you want to!