GardenKit

Interesting guy ( no pun intended) and an interesting show, but 4hrs to make a 5/8 notch in a piece of timber?????

Kevin left the 'famous three' drinking black coffee to sober them up for their quest, and ambled back to the rocket log park. A scowl formed on his face when he saw a leaflet stuffed under his twig. It was a government leaflet stating that they wanted people to have sex at 84. His scowl turned to a smirk when he remembered that he was filming just across the road tomorrow at no 83, so he might be able to get a quikie at lunchtime......

when, as luck would have it, a catering van appeared outside his cabin, as if by magic. A rather beautiful young maid, dressed strangely, as a fairy godmother, but in the style of a tree surgeon, with kevlar tights and stihl braces ( a rather weird combination, he thought) was frying big ,plump sausages. After a massive breakfast and 'a little something special' he reflected that this was after all not such a bad Sunday

You did'nt need to disagree just because I said you could Steve:001_tongue: Anyway, lets face it mate, you are just as stumped on this one as me this time. Some things you just have to have on the bench.

I,ve been trying to get my head round this one, so this is 'thinking outloud' The L screw should only have a very marginal effect on the flat out speed. To have to lean it right out indicates that the mixture is much too rich, i.e too much fuel present (or too little air) This does not tie in with failing to reach peak revs, that indicates too little fuel available, unless of course its 4 stroking. This would be too rich on the H screw, but I dont quite see how leaning out the L helps. I think a carb overhaul is in order. Pay particular attention to the needle valve, it may not be seating. This is of course assuming that compression and ignition are OK. Others may disagree or indeed have more to add.

Others may know better, but to my knowledge there is no tool for this. What I have done on many engines, and it works for me, is to use a small cordless drill, with the chuck tightened onto the top of the valve. Smear the seat with a little fine paste and gently pull the drill upwards whilst rotating very slowly. Use a gentle 'pulsing' action i.e pressure on, pressure off. Remember, the valves are machined, all you are doing is 'lapping' the valve to seal against the older seat. If the valve seat is damaged you need to replace the head.

Great stuff Matt, I,m glad it went well for you and the team. Hope the fall at the end did not hurt too much!!

Had a Huskie 136 in today which just would not pick up and run. I tested the compression which was down to 90 psi !!!!, so I removed the exhaust for a peep at the piston, which looked fine. So now i am a bit baffled as the saw had apparently been running fine until it suddenly was not, but there had been no seizure so i guess it had been running on 90psi. So I checked the favourite problem on these saws, the impulse tube, and indeed it was split. Fitted a new tube and the saw started first pull. Put it into a log and it cut perfectly after a small tune up. Even with only 90psi, strange but true.

I like Rich's bench, and I like my bench..... but which is best????

You seem to have it covered Mr WorcsWuss, bash on and have a go, just a couple of thougts to share. Its a pity you cant pressure test the crankseals before you dissmantle, it seems to be a bit of a waste to change them if they are OK. Also, although fitting new rings will help with restoring compression, it may not do the complete job if there is wear in the bore or on the piston, so best to check this out first. The symptons you have are typical of low compression.

Not so good for the blonde kid who ends up squashed under the shelves though.

Aww, gee fella's, I,m embarrased now. Seriously though, adowning7, I'll help if I can, but I am quite a way from you on the other side of the Exe.

Wow, a lot of sound advice here. Nothing to add, nothing to criticise, just get on and give it a go.

Went way over my head Steve.

The brake reassembly can be a bitch if you dont do it right. Just as Spud says, have the brake in the ON position, as this gets the longest length on the compression spring. Assemble the engagement mechanism onto the pin and put it all in place whilst leaving the rear end of the spring out of the channel. Make sure the nylon block at the business end of the spring and band is correctly seated in the end of the spring channel and hold it firmly down with the heel of your left hand. Using your index finger of the left hand to control the position of the rear end of the spring, and your right hand to use a medium flat blade screwdriver, just lever the end of the spring into the closed end of the channel and push down with the finger. Hold it down whilst you slide the cover into place and put the screws in. Then release the chain break mechanism, this is the trickiest job as its a job to find something to grip the 3 lobe actuator. The wrong tools can cause damage to the mechanism, the cover, your hands and your temper. Best to quickly make a tool similar to the one on one of my recent posts on Spuds magnificent 'on the bench' thread. http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/33857-whats-your-bench-today-145.html

Not a glitch, but a big thanks to Steve and Peter for the work they are putting in. The new 'search' button operation, which I have only just seen and used is great.

The argument that training does not neccessarily make a good operator is very true, but there is little doubt it helps. Take an operator with 5yrs experience and no training, now take the same guy with 5yrs experience after the proper training, .....which will be the best? I am sure there are many very good operators with years of experience and no formal training who are amongst the best in your business, but..... there are plenty more who think that just because they have experience they are good. These people talk the talk, but cant walk the walk yet they sound very plausible and would easily convince a salesman that they would be safe with a top handle. Many self tought would say " I am self tought, I made a few mistakes along the way, but learnt from them" My character, Lefty, who you met a few posts ago proudly says this. He has made 3 mistakes so far but I doubt he has really learnt.

On the understanding that the saw was OK prior to the oil misshap, then the problem is almst certain to lie with the disturbance of the carb for cleaning. The fuel pickup hose may have fractured when disturbed, so the fuel pump is not able to lift fuel, drawing air instead. Or, the carb has not been reassembled properly, Or, it could be that the impulse line has been disturbed or broken, but my money is on one of the other two options.

Good post Kevin.

When the oil blocks the felt filter, the filter is effectively blocked and the petrol flow ceases, so does not easily dissolve the oil, a lot of swishing around can help, but best to change the filter, or take it out and blow it out backwards then wash in petrol or blast some carb cleaner through it if you have some. Like Skyhuck, I have seen it, but much more often ( public!) and usually they start, smoke, and clear, without needing to go into the carb. Of course, if you are using my favourite product, Aspen, then you have a little more of a problem, because it has no solvents and will take longer to dilute the oil. One (tiny) reason NOT to use Aspen. But I still would.

If the chain oil managed to land on the filter it could well have blocked it, chamge the filter and there is a very good chance you will get it started, with luck the oil has not got to the carb, unless you tried for too long. Good luck

Except... Sizzle!

As this is a very respectable and professional forum, with responsible members and moderators, the answer must surely be that you need your tickets. Otherwise it could be seen as a bad example to newcomers, maybe?

Had none of the other problems. But got this one.

We just call him Lefty...