GardenKit

He would actually be safer with a topper on account of only having one arm, but he has not got the ticket, will you lend him yours?

Whiich is one of the reasons I do it correctly. The issue of the ordinary saws at the Sheds, Argos, etc is another subject dear to my heart. I believe that saws should not be sold without a basic instruction to the end user by a competant salesperson as it is a dangerous machine. I do personally find it ludicrous that I have to ask an obviously competant tree surgeon for proof of training, but can quite legitimaly sell an ordinary saw to the one legged, one armed, village idiot with one eye. I hasten to add that I would not sell to the above mentioned unfortunate, I know his dad and he would not be pleased.

But sheds dont have toppers, and its toppers we are talking about, so the question still stands. If you were a dealer would you ignore the instruction from the manufacturer and sell a topper without proof of training?

So what would you do if you were in my shoes?

Its not just a Stihl thing, most manufacturers of toppers now state that they are only to be sold to trained operators, but to my knowledge none actually state what qualification is needed. A reputable dealer should therefore ask to see a purchasers qualifications, relevant to use of a topper up a tree, which I personally take to be CS38/39. I dont believe that it is a legal requirement, the salesman wont be arrested for it, but as it has now become common practice it would be unwise for a dealer not to follow suit. In these days of litigation, if an accident were to happen and the dealer was found to have sold a topper to an untrained operator, that dealer could face some rather unpleasant consequences at the hands of the litigation lawyer. I always ask for the card and photo copy it. a copy is then attached to the sales invoice in our file, so we have nicely covered the proverbial backside. I have never had any objections from bona fide trained operators, only from untrained, cheapjack operators.

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Ie9 and windows 7 used here, cache cleared automatically, have had no problems.

Another urban myth, its not the same, compare the spec. Anyway, buy the 135, its a much better saw than either.

Just a little more on 'pop testing' There are several ways to use the pop tester but be aware of a few things first. 1 There is seldom an audible 'pop' and never from a dry carb. 2 Inlet valves never actually pop off when the carb is working, the test is merely to prove that they can open. 3 There are no correct pressures for pop off or reseating. Both top and bottom values can vary by more than 10 psi from carb to carb, but in general the valve should open (pop) at less than 30 psi and reseat at no less than 10psi. This is because the fuel pump operates at around 7psi, so obviously we dont want pump pressure to open the inlet valve and poor unwanted petrol through. 4 When using the tester the pop off point is often not easy to spot, so pump up slowly, allowing time between each pump to watch the gauge. If the needle remains still after each pump, then pump again, but if it starts to drop slowly back then 'pop off' has been reached. 5 Watch the needle dropping slowly back until it stops moving, this will be the reset pressure. It does not matter what it is as long as its greater than about 10 psi. 6 So to recap, the important thing is that the inlet needle does pop off at some point and that it reseats at 10psi or above. With this said, you can use the tester in a number of ways. You can connect it to the fuel pickup pipe with the carb in situ. Pump it up to about 20 psi, check the pickup hose and pump diaphragm for leaks. If it holds pressure, dont worry about trying to pop it off, just crank the engine (choke on, ign off) Each inlet stroke will cause the metering diaphragm to pull down, opening the inlet valve and you will see your pressure guage drop with each stroke, proving the inlet valve. Or you can connect it to the carb on the bench via the inlet pipe. You can pump it up to pop off, and then watch it reset, or, by putting a thumb over the choke plate and sucking gently on the engine end, you can create vacuum and see the needle drop. Or, if you suspect the inlet valve you can remove the metering chamber plate and drop the carb into a jar of petrol, pump it up and see the string of bubbles when the valve pops, watch them slow and stop on reseat. There are loads more uses for this bit of kit, but I'm getting bored now. Happy popping.

Believe me guys, plugs do fail. I dont see it every day but probably get about one machine a fortnight brought in with nothing more wrong with it than plug failure. They wont start, stick a new plug in and away they go. I do of course, see rather a lot of machines in a fortnight, so the percentage is low.

Sorry, thats actually what I meant. I keep mine on Aspen, but would use petrol If I needed to run it for any time. Just like my 4stroke outboard motor, overwinter with Aspen, but use petrol all summer.

Why do you think not?

Seriously though, there can be no argument that Aspen 4 is absolutely the right fuel to put in these generators. You can leave it for years and know it will be completely serviceable.

Weedkiller.....no, I cant believe I just said that:blushing:

An example of 'pop testing' as mentioned in an earlier posting. The pop test failed on the first test, it popped off at 20psi but did not reset at around 10 psi as it should. This is often caused by the viton seat of the needle being damaged, as was the case here, damaged needle on the left. Fitted new needle and set height of metering arm with gauge, then rebuilt carb and repeated pop test. This time the seat lifted at 22psi and reseated at around 11psi, which is perfect.

How many today Matt?

My first 'works' van was a Wartburg, cant say I liked it, but it had character:001_huh: And it lasted more than 3 years despite me doing my best to kill it. Made the exhaust emissions from a hedgecutter seem a little insignificant, never stand behind one.

The Oregon bar and chain are worth more than £40.00... bargain, not worth buying a new bar and chain, just buy a new saw. I feel sea sick now after seeing him rock the flipping up and down so much, he could have tried letting the saw do some of the work.

Factory settings are only really applicable to new equipment. As engines and carburettors wear they will require to be tuned accordingly to maintain the correct air/fuel ratio. Therefore it would be quite normal to adjust the screws away from presets. Increase the idle speed until it will run with the throttle trigger off. Then adjust the L screw to get the smoothest, fastest idle. Once obtained, lower the idle speed, retuning the L screw accordingly as required until the desired idle speed is obtained. Check for pickup from idle, the L mix may require a little turn to Rich. Tune the H screw again, then recheck the L. If all this can be achieved with the screws no more than 1\2 turn from preset then you have not got too much to worry about. If more adjustment is required then start to look for the reason. Good Luck

Awesome work Matt, hope its going to plan for you. Is that your Boxer?

The brake band you require is listed on the McCulloch IPL as an obsolete part, so I doubt you will get one. I have a used complete assembly on the shelf ( actually on a complete non runner) PM if interested

My carb supplier does not have any pop testers at present, but this is the one you are looking for. I dont know if this is the best place to buy, or the right price, but its the thing you need. Kart Carb Pop Off Tester Brand New Karting Best on Ebay | eBay

My previous post was in general, not specific to your saw as I am not familiar with it. However, it looks like this saw (as with many others) takes its impulse from drillings in the crankcase and through the insulator direct into the carb (no tubes to perish). You will see the little hole in these items. Make sure they line up and that the gaskets are correctly fitted so as not to block the hole. Also worth checking that the hole is clear into the crankcase. I will check into the pop tester later in the morning and let you know.

Yes, you can use a pop tester. Its a 'must have' tool for any 2t techie. Its a little pump, you attach it to the pickup pipe, pump it up to the 'pop off, pressure, often around 15psi. This is the pressure that overcomes the spring pressure on the metering valve. Let it pop and repump to just under that pressure. The guage should hold steady. Crank the engine and the manifold vacuum should pull down the metering diaphragm, opening the meetering valve and allowing the pressure to drop.

The fuel should come through within half a dozen pulls. If it does'nt then something is amiss. The carb has a fuel pump on one side, it is operated from 'pulse' from the crankcase. So no fuel getting to the carb could be 1 no pulse ( damage pulse tube, leaking crank seals etc) 2 no pumping ( incorrect assy of pump membranes) 3 no suction ( leak in pickup hose or blocked pickup filter) Fuel could be getting to carb, but not to inlet manifold 1 no way through metering valve ( incorrect assy of metering valve/diaphragm 2 no way out of metering chamber ( blocked jet) 3 no inlet suction to draw fuel from carb ventori ( crank seals, compression) Try those for starters, also check for trapped or pinched fuel hoses Good luck