GardenKit

Now get it ported Dean, lets see what it can really do:biggrin:

Methinks you need a new carb now, no point in messing about with that one any more.

I agree, Steve. There has been a lot of criticism of the needle bearing on the 261, with some people putting the blame on the plastic cage. TBH, there is nothing at all wrong with the plastic cages as this 361 example shows. The cage is intact but the drum bore, and needles, had worn sufficiently to allow one of the rollers to escape.

Hi Joeken, and welcome to the forum. Your problem sounds to be coil related. I would first check out the flywheel, making sure that the key is intact and the flywheel tight. Its just possible that it is loose and just catching on the broken key at slow speed but spinning on the crank under higher inertia.

You are right Steve, I am a great believer in the use of Aspen, so much so that I am in the top 4 sellers in the UK for volume. (2nd, if you exclude the 2 who sell volume to authorities) This has given me a lot of experience in the product. What is interesting is that Aspen sometimes gets the blame for upsetting carburation on a changeover, but this example (and the 200t) just go to show that simply changing from one petrol mix to another also causes problems. Its just one of those things that happens from time to time and simply rectified.

This is one reason to check, and grease your clutch drum needle bearing. This saw was not oiling, the cause was obvious, this pump just was not going to work anymore. This was caused by wear in the needle bearing AND the centre bore of the drum. The wear allows the drums edge to drop, this applies pressure to the worm drive arm which then grinds away at the oil pump, in this case weakening it sufficiently to break up.

Think of it like this.(single, or twin small 4t engines) The flywheel rotates once per engine rev. The magnets pass the ignition module (coil) once per rev) Therefore creating impulse once per rev, therefore sparks every rev. One spark occurs on the power stroke, and is used. The other spark occurs on the exhaust stroke and is 'wasted' One impulse per rev will count RPM

Use 360. Thats for 1 pulse per revolution. This applies to most small engines that you will encounter in this trade, both 2t and 4t. You will soon know if its wrong, as you should get to be a good judge of speed range without using the tach, so if for example you were expecting 12k - 14k, but only got 6-7, then you would know it was set wrongly.

Sorry if I misled. All I was saying is that it certainly can happen. But it is rare to have to retune, 95% of the time there will be no difference in tune between mixes.

To be honest its not that strange. Over the years I have had several 2t machines back after service for retuning after service. After a while I got wise to this, and before retuning, put some of my mix in ( the one I had tuned it on) and they are usually fine. Its then a simple matter of retuning to the customers mix, and all is well.

Just like the BBC, nothing on but repeats:lol: But I agree, it does sound like a bit of bodgineering. Could be worse, it could have been welded.

Tis a limited edition Kentish model.

Beautiful, blue sky and sunshine over a very hard frost.

Looks like a Farmers saw to me!!

Blimey, you learn something every day. I presume you mean a tool to bend the lever? I did not know there was such a thing. Or did you mean the lever height setting gauge? I have a Walbro one ( part no 500-13), but never seen a Zama one yet.

How old is his petrol? (NO, I am not punting Aspen this time!) Petrol is formulated differently from summer to winter. Summer petrol is less volatile than winter petrol, so in cold weather it does not vaporise as easily leading to poor starting, so this could be the cause. If so its easily proved by buying fresh fuel. Conversely, if you are still using winter fuel in the spring and summer it will vaporise too easily and can lead to vapour in the fuel lines, known as 'vapour lock'.

Dont worry about the sponge bits, just hook out the red seat without damaging the ally around it. Gently push in the new one with a nice flat ended punch or similar.

What is happening is that the needle is leaking either because of some dirt on the seat, or a damaged needle/seat, or as suggested, leaking float. It is not leaking whilst running as its using the leaked fuel as fast as it leaks in, but when the engine stops the fuel fills up in the bowl and overflows into the carb throat, some will come out through the air filter, but depending on the angle, some may go into the inlet manifold and through the engine into the sump. Check your oil and change if diluted after first having cured the problem. Most likely a new needle and seat will do the job

Here we go again! Yes, you can buy any rear handle saw without producing your ticket, but not a topper. Ok, we have established before that it is not illegal to sell a topper without seeing the tickets, but it is against industry code of conduct for the dealers. So a clued up and conscientous dealer who wants to protect his reputation and avoid repurcussions, will ask for tickets. It really should not pose a problem to a purchaser as a potential user of a topper will have taken his courses.

I had my smoke cloak go off one Sunday afternoon in the summer. It was a false alarm luckily, but the sound of the alarm alerted the neighbours who went for a nose. They spotted smoke coming from the gaps in the eaves and called the Fire Brigade. Luckily I got there before the fire brigade, but by this time the neighbour, fearing an explosion, had started up his fleet of lorries and vans and moved them a safe distance away. I calmly walked to the door, but he was shouting 'DONT OPEN THE DOOR, IT'LL BLOW' I carried on in whilst he legged it to cover behind a wall. The brigade arrived, had a good laugh and went on their way happy. No harm done, it only cost a refill and a engineers visit to fix the fault that caused the false call.

With the name of this thread Steve, one may have been started.

Sorry AlvinD, the absence of the exhaust gasket wont affect the comp. 130 is a little low, it should run, but not as well as it would on 160. If you want it right you may have to re-piston it, or at least re-ring it, but you will need to strip it first to inspect it. (Presuming your results are accurate)

Nice one Bill, and a great looking puller too. Glad you got it sussed.

The last job of the day was an MS200t which would start and die straight away. Firstly a quick comp test...160psi, so all good. Secondly.. a new plug, and give it a try. Success, it ran up and revved nicely, but it would not drop back to idle, a bit strange methinks. The LA screw made no difference, still running at about 5000rpm. Air leak?? so removed rear AV screw and carb. took off the inlet manifold for inspection, but it was fine, and nice and soft around the collar still. Put it back on, but then noticed the impulse line was off the air box pipe. Could this have been it I wondered, but no, surely it would not run at all with the impulse tube off. So I started it without the tube, and to my surprise it starts and runs fine, just wont drop on idle. Put the impulse tube back on and the idle drops to where it should be. Put the old plug back, and once again it starts and stops straight away. New plug back in and perfect. So TWO faults at once, thats quite strange. Tached it up, jobs a good un.