GardenKit

Thanks Scotspine, purely by coincidence both of these are on the route I selected today for the long way round from Fort William to Ullapool. It looked a bit remote on the map which is why i liked it.

Last time I checked Stihl were only selling the Kombi one as a replacement. If you needed the head for an HL you had to buy an KMHL and chuck away the tube. The gear heads are identical.

Thanks for the tip Jim, but there is not much I want from Jonesies online, I do buy some of my stock from them 'trade' though:biggrin:

Thanks scotspine, I must admit to having preconceived ideas of Glasgow being a dump full of 'buckies' addicts ( those devon monks have something to answer for) but I am not sure where these ideas came from. and I am sure they are wrong. However, we are not really into architecture, but would rather spend our limited time in the highlands.

thanks BJ. We are giving Glasgow a miss , so I guess we won't have too much trouble from midgets either:biggrin:

A change in plans may bring our trip forward to the second half of September. Are the midges going to be a problem then? (still planning mainly the west coast and highlands, but not the islands due to ferry prices)

The most common cause is the loss of drive to the oil pump, also easy to check. With the chain brake off, remove the clutch drum, then the clutch. The drive worm has an arm fitted to it, the arm is driven by a notch in the drum, and the arm drives the worm by friction. 3 things can happen. The end of the arm wears off and does not fit in the notch The friction surface wears out and the arm no longer turns the worm The worm gears wear out Check these first before looking any further.

The problems on most saws are normally simple, yet we get carried away into believing the worst. I had a 200t today that was running poorly and changing its state of tune when put into work. Classic symptoms of a split inlet manifold. All you need to do to change the manifold is to undo the rear AV mount and remove the carb. The handle can be lifted sufficiently to remove the manifold. This one was split and so was replaced. There is always a risk that the saw has had prolonged use with a split and has run weak resulting in the bore picking up and a subsequent loss of compression, so I always do a comp test, its quick and informative. This one was 150psi, so good to go. It is also likely that the user has tried to tune out the problem before giving in and getting it repaired, so its best to check the carb screws. These were both 1 turn out, so good to go. 4 pulls got it going, it sounded quite good at revs, but died on releasing the throttle. The LA screw would not turn in any more. Strange, so fiddled the L screw, but to no avail. I was now it bit baffled, there should not be more than one problem, so quickly popped on a known good carb. Perfect. So stripped, cleaned and refurbished the original carb (an 020 type S16A carb), put it back on but still no tick over. Really baffled now, but turned my attention back to the idle speed LA screw. This screw would go no further in, but rather than being in all the way, was in fact all the way out, but cross threaded. A clean up of the threads and it was moving freely again and I was able to adjust the tick over. Sometimes it is easy to miss the obvious.

Funny you should say that, I decided yesterday that the cypress will be down this autumn.

I was luckier than Eggs, I spotted the wasp in my cider before drinking it.

Hahaha, I said I was going to it this morning, but I have not gotten round to it yet:biggrin:

I did it many times in my Ag engineering days. I always over engineered them and to my knowledge they never failed. But towards the end of that career I had to stop doing it for fear of liability, as all brackets are meant to be tested to destruction under load so that they can be ce plated. We deemed it to risky to do for a customer, but maybe if you do it for your own use you would be ok.

Aerosol Jizer works a treat.

Thanks, thats pretty much what I thought, loppers at dawn!

Most of you will know I am a mechanic, so i admit to being useless with anything that has leaves. I have several forsythia around my garden that have grown crazy and are falling out all over the place. What should i do with them, and when should i do it?

To be fair, China is capable of producing high quality, and it does so in great quantity. But they will also produce absolute trash, which they do in even greater quantity.

There were some pics on this thread a while ago that may help http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/chainsaws/40826-ms200t-choke-off-switch.html

I get a lot of customers wanting to buy a ride on mulching mower to cut their main lawns in the normal manner, but also insist that it is able to tackle the "wild flower" meadow once a year, a task that it is just not suitable for. Most domestic collector models will not cope either, without a lot of strain on the belts. There is a lot of ignorance about wild flower meadows, most who want one do not realise the amount of work needed when it comes to cutting and carting it, and are not prepared for the effort and cost.

1000 litres would heat my house for half the winter, thereby saving the lives of all the residents:biggrin:

Should run it on A....!

I get quite a few in. They are not normally any trouble, but I always start them outside and well away from the door. I used to be a diesel mechanic, but now the stink of diesel fumes nauseates me.

But they do cost in the region of 300k I believe. The one I built (page 105 of this thread) could also be 'sealed up" I did it at the end of the trials in the pics and waited 6 hrs for the tide to drop, then checked all the cavities for water before restarting, handing it over and getting paid around 35K. I was only going to be paid if it restarted.

Made by these people. Clayton Engineering - Talus MB-4H

High octane will not help, it will just reduce the power. Use standard fuel.

Towing at 10 Knots????? Wow!! Bet you had it on a long rope.