openspaceman
-
Posts
9,510 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
5
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Calendar
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by openspaceman
-
Yes I saw that on BBC news, I'd still like to complete the circuit though, but not in bad light or bad weather.
-
Nor me but I'd take a punt at it too if it were closer. Mind it would be a good excuse to finish the walk to Helvellyn, which I abandoned at Hole-in-the-wall with my 11 year old granddaughter due to poor weather 7 years ago.
-
Sorted now, I shortened the fuel pipe, as I think it was sucking air, and bent the fuel chamber valve actuating fork up a bit so it opened the valve a bit earlier.
-
I've just put the recoil spring in and tried to start it. Sparks good and it fires on petroil syringed into the carb but nought otherwise. I,ve got the carb off but in doing so I notice that the reed plate doesn't have retaining screws, should it? Or is it just held by the carb screws?
-
Nice area, I'm waiting to hear if I have a job helping felling some limes there, I'll be looking for a B&B recommendation. I like that idea too, I don't like dismantling these little saws and I thought you needed to take off both side covers to get at the exhaust.
-
What a bother! when I had similar issues with the contacts shorting on the dip switch on an old escort I simply wired a switch on the dash for the lights as the indicator-light switch cluster was so expensive.
-
It's haynes 4292 and it says it covers the ci engine as well, best be careful about using oil burner term it seems to be misunderstood,. It was a fast, effortless limo and I'm gutted the engine became uneconomic at below 100k, what was it about these later Rover si engines that became so problemsome?
-
Sounds like a dickie indicator/flasher stalk. I've just scrapped my 75 auto V6 (camshaft oil seal went at 98k and the cost of belts and gaskets was more than the car was worth though it was a lovely car) so I have the Haynes book if you are interested, you pay postage.
-
He can come and split some of my mate's waste, pick and chose what he wants and run it over a weighbridge for 20% of that price.
-
Yes, IIRC the sawdust went in at about 12% and came out at 10 and quite hot. Pellet making 10 years ago was a bit of a black art, I've not had any experience since. If you leave a bag of pellets open in a cold damp place they revert to sawdust so the fact that it's still a pellet is a good indication it's dry. There were some small scale pellet producers who used modified versions of the old Lister cuber. These were ok pelleting grain and dried grass with a bit of molasses for a binder but didn't reach the pressures the big machines could. To make sawdust pellets they used a binder made from a waste from the paper making industry, something like calcium lignosulphonate which glued the particles rather than depend on hydrogen bonding in the high pressure system, this did increase the ash content.
-
Yes the rule of thumb was that the biggest particle going into the die mustn't exceed 40% of the die diameter. Hammer mills and dryers use a lot of expensive power but it's the capital cost of the equipment that seemed to be the biggest part of the running cost (where the sawdust was essentially free).
-
This depends on the relative humidity of the air and the temperature, genrally when it's cold and damp there's not much capacity for more water vapour in the air, so unless you have a cheap way of blowing a howling gale through the pile you need to add some heat. The polytunnel will still have solar gain in the winter but in a battle of fan power verses cheap heat the heat wins in this climate.
-
Too true, I think the Sprout Matador ones which were installed in Bridgend (refurbished) needed a new substation even though they were nominally 300hp and 5 tonne/hour. The thing is you are essentially reducing the volume of a lump of wood to 1/3 of its original size by squeezing all the air spaces out and crushing the fibres, try doing that in a vice. They need to run fairly continuously to get a consistent product and all the pellets have to be expelled at the end of the run or they dry solid in the die, that gave a guy a few days work with a drill afterwards.
-
In which case I have a seized 288 which is otherwise in fair nick if you want to look at it I can dig it out.
-
If you need any help then there is forum ar Latitude Cartography or I know my way round some bits
-
Integrated clearing saw/sprayer.
openspaceman replied to AlexB's topic in Forestry and Woodland management
There was an attachment for applying glyphosate and dye to the underside of the saw blade for rhododendron control but I think there were all sorts of problems with chemical spinning off and it seemed to disappear quite quickly. The make was Enso -
Snap but looking back whilst it seems naive to have expected to be financially successful I don't regret the actual work.
-
I guess an air classifier will do this but most trees only have leaves half the time so I doubt it would be worthwhile, the good thing about wood is that you can store it in the round and it's heat value goes up as it dries, other crops are more difficult to conserve because they are more digestible.
-
Firstly it's not my burner and secondly I'm not advocating it but it can happen, wood really needs hot conditions in the firebox to burn out, I typically measure 1100C in combustion chambers. The walls seldom reach this because the heat has to conduct or radiate to the inside wall, through the metal and out to the ambient air. The rate at which it receives this heat and then passes it away will determine the equilibrium temperature of the wall. Put an insulator on the outside, like vermiculite, and the metal work gets hotter because it cannot get rid of heat through the insulator. A brick on the inside can work because it reduces heat getting to the wall but the wall still has to get rid of the heat coming through the brick or the brick just gets to the combustion heat as it cannot get rid of it through the wall.
-
They can raise broods through the year because of their ability to regurgitate a form of milk for the squabs
-
That's what I thought from the leaf but the bark looked wrong
-
I've never done it but my guess is sand is better than vermiculite as it will conduct heat away from the metal better, once steel gets near red heat it doesn't last long.
-
Oddly enough I was up at a friend's farm today, collecting a piece of kit for farmer Rod to try, and he put a digester in 4 years ago, 27,000 hrs on the MAN engine now putting 130kW into the grid on average. He uses it to deal with his cow slurry and the wey from his cheese business plus he makes grass and maize silage for cows and digester. Today he was running it on sugar beet he had grown. He uses about 20% of the electricity on the farm and creamery and heats a number of buildings using surplus biogas. The rub is the digester basically likes the same food cows do, it uses up what are called the volatile solids ( fats, sugars and starch basically) and sugar beet and maize have a lot of these, wood has essentially none but leaves will have a bit.
-
I'll defer to our learned colleague as I'm only a beginner at this fungi ident business. What's your view on australe on Q Borealis Tony? I have watched a mature tree with small fruiting bodies of what I take to be this for 4 years now and just the one poorly formed bracket in between two prominent buttresses each year.
-
Should I be able to smell Smoke from next doors fire in my lounge
openspaceman replied to Jonny Burch's topic in General chat
You need to establish if it's an inversion layer pushing the smoke down from the top of the chimney because your house has a circulation that's drawing air down the chimney (as you don't have a fire yet). Or it may be cracks in the flue (bad thing). First mover would be a chimney balloon in the bottom of your flue. If that stops the smoke smell then try the same at the lop. Does your chimney have a liner?
