openspaceman

Thanks, I've used helicoils quite a bit, from spark plugs in cars to exhaust studs in saws but this time the whole side of the threaded section has broken out on one side.

Any ideas on how to repair two of the screw threads which hold the plastic cylinder cover/air filter housing to the body. I broke them out a very long time ago, have tried araldite to hold a threaded piece in without much success. I have an acquaintance who is an ace TIG welder but I think it is mag alloy and doubt it's weldable.

Be careful using the lowest ratio with a big load, the crown wheel in one of the rear axle reduction (portal) hubs will break a tooth, guess how I know?

IIRC that charger requires 330W so even if it's 100% efficient it will draw 27 Amps at 12V, more than a cigar socket will stand and you'd need the engine running.

In your dreams Jon, I wouldn't trust any of the fancy testing procedures any more than I trust manufacturers car fuel consumption figures. You need to monitor air flow and flue gas exit temperatures to get a real handle on stove efficiency.

At home 4.164p/kWh and 26p/day At work 2.7p/kWh and 180p/day Wood cut by hand and split by axe is a luxury good. I make your 1800kWh stack to be 450kg air dry, how long does that take to cut and split and what hourly rate on marginal costings for time and equipment? I guess you can get a bulk load of what was known as G30 chip with 40% mc for £25/tonne and similar for softwood cord both of which can be burned directly in a suitable device. So for the same weight of dry wood you get 1700kWh or <1.5p/kWh. Trouble is that the wood stove is not as efficient as the gas boiler, nor as controllable so room is often hotter than need be. Still I don't pay for my wood and only spend a couple of days gathering it off arb sites.

Yes it's high moisture content and no durable heartwood. It was milled (presumably quarter sawn) and used internally as wainscot oak.

It's a mixture of hydrogen bonding by forcing contact between particles and reforming the lignin as it platicises under heat (from friction) and then resets. There should be no problem in burning wet sawdust with a bit of heat recycling, just that you get less heat out as some is wasted as water vapour.

I'll look forward to reports you make. I am considering one with 18" bar, I have always used laminated and wonder what the pros and cons are compared with solid. How much does it weigh? How many spondulas by the time you got it?

I can call in on my next trip to ATS ;-)

I was thinking more of the 61cc ones, will they be different? If so is US the cheapest place to buy? I wonder if a trolley dolly can bring one home.

What is the difference between Makita and Dolmar apart from the colour? I never thought I'd buy another saw but this last few days have made me think my 262 is a bit long in the tooth. I'd like something modern but without the autotune or other gizmos.

I got called out to a leaning one today, synchronisity or what? It's the only one I am aware of in Surrey outside of gardens.

Blades only have a limited number of sharpens before they are too short, so worst case is you get back a set of blades that cannot be sharpened even though you took in nearly new ones. Redwoods have always seemed a fair company to deal with.

That didn't work, got dragged out to cut a tree off a car, write off. Wiping egg off my face as I'd passed it off as fair condition, so wouldn't expect problems till next inspection due in Oct 2015. Stem was sound to ground level, slight brown stain in a sector where the bark had been damaged several years ago. What I hadn't seen 1 year and 10 days ago was the spindleshank in profusion. There was some evidence of earlier fruiting bodies, which by then was a black jelly.

It does look like Phillyrea latifolia, evergreen privet

IIRC Smalley made a digger specially for the job.

I've done some servicing on an old kerosene aga, it's not in use now because modern 28sec kerosene isn't clean enough and seems to foul the wicks too quickly. Anyway given that the air requirements are similar for any heat output whether wood or oil (apart from wood generally needing more excess air) it strikes me the burner section lends itself to being replaced by a burn pot as use in 10-25kW pellet burners. Have a look at something a chap I knew (he's gone very quiet on the stoves scene but Nat is a lecturer in industrial design in Italy) designed, http://worldstove.com/wp-content/gallery/events/img_0927.jpg A bit of ingenuity with a fire break, a horizontal auger and a small hole in the side and a centrifugal fan... To avoid spoiling the aga consider using a wedge on the door like Alex English does to run his gasifier into a conventional stove. It would be necessary to have very dry, screened woodchip just from massflow considerations. I'm told agas use about 40 litres of kerosene/week (average 2.5kW??)so as long as you can burn 60kg of dry wood through a week that should give similar performance, a lot more if it's heating radiators.

Marcus may well be right but we laid our workshop floor over an existing one so added mesh as we weren't sure of the base, that plus the trolley jacks have a high point loading. 4 quid/m2 extra cost didn't seem a lot to pay.

Drag the timescale out to 5 years and that's about what happened after 87. I was selling to 13 of many sawmills in surrey then , none left now apart from mobile ones and a subsidised effort. Timber was more valuable at the beginning then too, in real terms it's a fraction of the value now. I'm staying in bed this time.

If it's a lead acid batterry one needs to be wary of the depth of discharge, generally the deeper the discharge cycle the lower the life, e.g if you use 80% of its capacity it will have half the life compared with only discharging to 50% capacity. "Leisure" batteries are designed differently from auto batteries which have high drains (starting) for short periods and are then constantly charged whilst the engine is running. On the OPs figures 3hrs use would only use 50% of the capacity. We use LED flo0ds for night use and these run for 8 hours but I have yet to see how long the batterry will last, I think it/s lithium ion, like in a laptop or cellphone.

I agree and look to puting expansion material against the walls. I imagine there's no damp course in the building?

Looks like it to me

Are they available to work south of London?

I don't think it is wise to mount on a building. Also consider power is proportional to the windspeed cubed so theoutput is peaky. Even on a good site you only reckon on an average of 30% of installed capacity and most sites in England have not achieved this. Perceived wisdom is that you don't get an economic return if average wind speed is less than 7 metres/sec. None of which would stop me if I had space except I would use a pole.