openspaceman

Too much effort, you can come and collect one if you like.

I've still got two and chose them as they don't seize on steep banks, mind I don't think I have used them for 30 years other than to see if they still work. I cannot remember if they are aspera or tecumseh engines.

I agree but don't think it's likely that char dust is carcinogenic, not a thing you's want to breath in though for a number of other reasons.

As Eggs says if it's foaming it's not cavitation and you must be sucking air in somewhere

It could well be italian alder Alnus cordata

After the fires in 76 the problem was air filters were letting char dust through and the bores were getting damaged. The solution was to use womens' tights material over the filter coated in the oil motocross bikes used in their air filters. I never bothered as the pulp mill rejected the first load because of char contamination.

I cannot see it can recover if that is a recent picture, Has it got any green leaves?

It strikes me whatever the initial problem was a secondary fungal attack has goosed it

English elm I think, do the leaves feel a bit rough?

That's a bit dotty, whatabout @spudulike

I'm a bit older but similarly I don't think I've ever had the flu and only missed work on a few occasions when I have had stomach upsets, worst I was off for a week after eating a dodgy lobster.

Welcome to old age ?

https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/cylinder-muffler-assembly-for-stihl-ms028-petrol-chainsaws.html 9022 341 0980 Pan Head Screw Is M5x16 In stock £0.60 1118 149 0600 Muffler gasket In stock £1.55 I'd make the gasket out of a piece of aluminium sheet and use a screw from my bits and bobs.

My first power saw was a brushcutter in 1974, harness was all leather, after my Stihl harness was nicked from the Vitara in January I got the neatsfoot oil out and cleaned it up and used that for a few hours, only problem seems to be the metal clip for the saw is a bit worn.

TOT but I live in the quintessential commuter town with a number of tall hutch complexes as well as posh houses with nice gardens yet the commute to london is likely to have been the main vector for disease. So is it likely the recent migration to cities will continue?

To my mind getting out of mining coal was sensible on a number of counts even if she did it for idealogical reasons and didn't make adequate provisions for miners who lost jobs. Mind those that came into forestry seemed institutionalised and unable to adapt. She was far worse for the country in selling off social housing wholesale and committing us to depend on financial services for other countries.

I don't think so as the heat losses from the store will go up with size, even though they are well insulated. Also you have to consider the cost of corrosion inhibitors, on our commercial units we used none as the systems were pressurised ( i.e. not open to air to let more oxygen in)

We are a little bit at cross purposes I think - the only components of the system that I would prefer not to change if possible is the piping to the radiators Not much more to say really, I'm not familiar with your specific requirements so tried to give a general concept of deploying a heat buffer tank in conjunction with a wood fired boiler. You could increase the size and heat exchange efficiency of some of your radiators to be able to run down the heat store further as underfloor is not a possibility. I've been out of the business for over 10 years now.

No it isn't a thing to retrofit. How hot is the water in your central heating circuit? If it is to be the same primary circuit water as the heat store this will limit how hot the heat store can get and in turn, with the radiators limiting the heat that can be extracted from the store, affects the size of the buffer tank. Heating the tank becomes a dilemma as when you re light the stove(s) you want all the initial heat to go to the house and then, when house is up to temperature, just bleed off heat into the buffer tank but keep it stratified so the high temperature is at the top and it heats from top down and not waste heat by keeping the bottom of the tank tank hotter than necessary. A laddermate type device that keeps the water in the stove boiler above about 60C in the same way a thermostat keeps an engine warm will prevent cold water from the store affecting the stove.

Even with all that import our total electricity from biomass seldom meets 5% of demand with Gas and nuclear (22% including France's contribution) providing the backbone, then wind then solar

The big question is how do you intend to transfer the heat in the buffer tank to the house? If you use radiators you will have less heat available compared with underfloor as the underfloor heating (besides providing loads of heat storage in the slab) will take the tank down to a lower temperature, like 25C, and still heat the house while the radiators will lose effectiveness as they drop below 50C. If the heat demand for the house in cold weather averages out at 12kW but you only fire the stove (which must then work at 18kW) for 16hours then the buffer must provide 96kWh into the house. In practice the house stores some heat, especially the chimney breast so the heat buffer is only required to start reheating the house in the morning before the stove is lit. A heat store of 1500ltr with a top temperature of 90C and a lower temperature of 40C will store 87kWh with no losses Our little semi of 80m2 over two floors in sunny Surrey seems to cope with an input of 4-5kW for 16 hours to keep the ground floor to 20C with no heating on upstairs and that's with 9" brick walls but good double glazing.

I've never used multi tip but the boss has a crate full of the simple teeth from a Dosko, I've always fancied the idea of making a small PTO mulcher with them to plane out ruts on overgrown paths. One of the advantages of a big machine with 400hp behind it was it didn't matter if some teeth were blunt so you just kept an eye out for once the TCT had worn off and swapped them out.

Just about to light mine

Saved Easy solution to that That's what the likes of bojo and his ilk learn, you get up and try again.

Glad you got it out as to the "lots of downward pressure" I have found the old fashioned impact drivers are useful to give the downward force plus the torque impulse simultaneously for future reference File:ImpactDriverWithBits.png - Wikipedia EN.WIKIPEDIA.ORG