openspaceman

@Billhook How far did you get with the 1124? I have replaced the slew cylinders on mine, rebuilt the starter and bought a new alternator then it should be ready for work. I'm trying to glue the fibreglass bonnet together as it is in four bits and then some gaps where the fibreglass has fallen off.

best phone Sion @Treadlight Forestry then BTW what rope are you using?

Yes maple, you've better eyes than mine re reduction but I would say it is an inappropriate tree for the situation, enjoy for the while then remove and replace

1800 and 13mm

Yes he doesn't mention how many wraps he's trying, I find my Eder needs 4 at least and preferably 5 wraps to guarantee a good pull. I also read his post as saying the drum continues to rotate so cannot think of much else that would cause slip.

Just because the fuel is metered directly into the crankcase doesn't alter the engine from being a two stroke.

It's a good chance that it is from a fungal attack, massaria, but wait for someone familiar with it to come along as I don't think I've seen it other than pictures. A cross section through a branch showing the CODIT reaction would confirm it is more than bark stripping.

Apparently not fussed which of the olive family it lives on but identified by a young friend as a Privet Hawk Moth , living on ash with dieback we were felling, it moved too fast for me to show its size but the biggest moth I have ever seen and the first time.

It's an interesting one, even though @monkeybusiness says it will be over 2040kg unladen (which I have long suspected for most modern diesel 4wd) I wonder how the speed camera database decides it is not dual purpose. As I remember the V5 for my Land Rover said just PLG but it was dual purpose. I had always thought you needed to trigger the speed limit for the road and then they clobbered you for the extra 10mph as well. A trailer on the back would nullify the dual purpose defence as he says. @PeteB is coy about whether a tachometer is fitted.

I heard a faint whoosh but didn't realise there were two at it

I'll bow to your superior knowledge but the OP has said softwood. We glued some steel flitch plates in to sister/tandem some floor joists and that seemed to work

Could you biscuit joint them, then it could all be done with a router?

So the ranger did not get the dual purpose category?

miner Cameraria ohridella

If it blew the fuse my first move would be to unbolt the hydraulic pump from the electric motor and see if the electric motor would spin, without disconnecting any hydraulic pipes if possible.

Too right, one of our chaps thought he was climbing an ivy covered ash, cutting the ivy as he went up, unfortunately he had notched the top of the limb he chose as an anchor and we all know how stresses act on a notch... With the poisoning I wasn't considering climbing but felling.

Perceived wisdom suggests drilling and using a systemic before felling gets more translocation to the roots. I have never been allowed to try it for fear of the dying tree attracting unwanted attention.

With those blurry stripes I would have said it was a comon may bug but a bit late in the season.

It's not, it is specific to motors with clutch shoes held on by a bastard (left hand) thread. Stihl clutches were held on by E clips so not such a problem. Once a saw has been run and stalled in the cut a bit the chain tightens the clutch onto the crank shaft, which is why it can need a sharp tap to undo it. If it has just been tightened on and not used when the saw slows under overrun and there is no chain drag the inertia of the clutch shoes makes it want to continue spinning but the motor is much slower so it spins the clutch off.

Yes for big motors; when the motor starts from stationary each voltage cycle there is a sudden rush of current, and this creates a massive torque, once it is moving the squirrel cage armature starts generating a back electro motive force which opposes the supply voltage and reduces the current. With star delta it's effectively wired as a 240V motor as it comes up to speed as otherwise the inrush current on each cycle would likely overload the supply, once it's rotating sufficiently fast for the back emf to reduce the current even at the higher voltage it is switched to act as a 440V motor. I agree that the rule of thumb is you need to supply 3 times the current to start up a motor because of this inrush. There are other ways around this by controlling the current or the frequency The Power=Volts x Amps is true but because a motor is an inductive load the current and voltage are out of phase so even when it is running at rated speed it will be drawing more amps than the power suggests, which is why the motor will be rated at 15kW but the generator supplying it will need to supply the 15kW when the voltage is out of phase with the voltage, so it will need more than 15kVA to run at rated power. Hence the windings of the generator will need to be able to withstand the supply voltage and the higher current, which is why a generator is rated in kVoltsAmps rather then kWatt.

Why?

Yeah regex would only require one asterisk or the correct number of question marks ?

sorted that

I hope you realise I was being sarcastic.

Kevin and I often agree on what's wrong, we just don't agree on what to do about it.