openspaceman

I've only been heavily involved once and that was on 100 ha of fairly flat ground in a scots pine plantation, I had two months start on a harvesting outfit. Growth was well over cab height and first pass through was with an 8ft Ahwi on a reverse drive Valtra, with a little skid steer then taking out the inter-row growth. I was making the final pass a couple of inches below the leaf litter to traumatise the roots. It still would have needed hand cutting follow up after the harvesting but unfortunately I have never been back since 12 years ago to see the result. I guess it was costing £500/ha then. The harvesting was right up behind me at finish.

Samsung S5 wasn't too difficult once the hair dryer had softened the glue.

Yup it's all about economic power and trading blocs, the EU was a major trading bloc before its, mainly German, politicians caused it's demise by empire building

the last bit is the significant point. if the cord ends up poking into one of the ports you can do damage as the piston comes up an wedges it. only insert cord once the piston has come up to cover the ports

Telehandler cages are not approved for planned work unless adapted so they can be operated from the cage and of course they need to be LOLER inspected

it depends on what is getting into the carb and where. first thing is to use a sharp chain that doesn't produce fine sawdust

Doh scratch my suggestions then

Looking forward to that

almost certainly a cultivar but I think maybe wych hazel or possibly persian ironwood. Why so few leaves?

alternatives seem to be available M10x1.0 Spark Plug Repair Kit 10 mm WWW.EBAY.COM This Thread reapair kit for M10x1.0 consists of a Special Pilot nose Tap that does not require prior drilling, together with a...

I suspect you mean torx? I was chatting to an engineer about higher strength counter sunk bolts and he was explaining countersunk bolts could not be stated as the high tensile strength 12.9 like the equivalent cap head bolt could be and that the countersunk head itself limits it to be only sold as 10.9, were you aware of this?

Great, I wish our old tree could produce more viable apples, despite stripping all the blossom last year to make life difficult for codling moth we are getting masses falling early with exit holes., I'm very disappointed.

Still ongoing, I posted a picture of the remains of the boundary wall in the stump grinding thread. The wall was in a state of near collapse and tree roots had destabilised it. When the house was bought, it is victorian, there was a full set of deeds and the various owners it had had. My brother remembered this eastern boundary wall belonged to the neighbour and the deed map showed a Tee on it denoting that. Subsequent building work next door had led to spoil from building work raising their garden such that the wall retained the spoil so it cannot be totally removed. https://dcn6x9s7fzj11.cloudfront.net/monthly_2019_06/bay1.thumb.jpg.1830151340233421fa008436bc1ce6dc.jpg I dismantled 4 bays of the top of the wall that was leaning and the remaining bays are still standing. Neighbour claims the wall belongs to my brother but won't put it in writing or contribute to rebuilding it. My brother would prefer to remove it down to the plinth and let the neighbour fence their side if they wished. Stalemate so far. As the other poster says the land registry record is not good for establishing a boundary. Incidentally I still have the deeds to my house after the building society went bust and it plainly states my boundary with my neighbour is jointly maintained.

Don't depend on a solicitor to keep deeds, my brother lost his when the solicitor went paperless and subsequently got involved in a boundary dispute which the paper deeds would have established definitively.

Back in the day IIRC conrod bolts on cars were length measured with a micrometer to establish the right amount of stretch

yes a misleading terminology if there ever was one

FWIW I only use it on nuts I think may get corroded in harsh conditions, like shackle bolts, which won't need looking at for a long time. Blades need changing fairly regularly...

You have had failures with ultra too? So far so good here after a year or so. I disliked the change from red to blue when I did it because the red gave an instant check that the oil was there whereas I find it harder to notice the blue.

I think that will be a normal M10 x 1mm pitch but you can check the thread on the spark plug specification. You need to be aware of a couple of things about helicoils: they are diamond section coil springs and you insert them into the freshly cut thread( using the supplied tap) by twisting them in with the other supplied tool which drives from a tang at the far end. Effectively you wind the coil up a bit which shrinks the diameter fractionally. When you are finished the coil springs open to jam the thread on the outside. You then break off the tang. Others apply threadlock to the helicoil. The issues are that if you don't drive the helicoil deep enough there is an exposed bit to snag at the top. This can get pulled and the rest of the helicoil with it. Bearing in mind I have only done spark plug threads on aluminium car engines; if there is a bit of build up on the bottom of the helicoil and you put a fresh spark plug in it can drive the helicoil further in but it is unlikely to pull it out as you unwind it as that tends to spread the helicoil against its outer thread. For this reason I did not pass the helicoil tap all the way down in the head, so the helicoil bottomed out on the uncut bit. Inserts don't have this problem as they have a flange at the top, I have never used inserts. I have used plenty of M5 helicoils on other chainsaw/small engine threads.

I do it the other way around, I use caustic soda gel applied with a cotton bud, rinse and repeat until the white deposit no longer forms, the same can be done with HCl probably quicker, then I use wet and dry. I was never in a hurry like a commercial shop would be.

What did you do to clean the aluminium pick up off? I ask because any residue left on the bore can cause aluminium to aluminium fusing from the piston again.

I guess the term more often used is "redirect pulley", because the marking was sparse and did not anticipate how extraction could be done a lot of trees are felled across the slope, so a pulley needs to be used to start the stem off and then once in the clear it can be winched straight down. In fact this can show up a slight drawback if the stem runs away down the hill and the rope becomes slack on the drum, the slack needs pulling out and then the windings on the drum reset. Sort of; when you put 5 wraps on the drum you are effectively twisting the rope 5 times one complete revolution, as you winch in the twists stay on the drum but as the rope is paying in it means the twists are displaced down the rope as far as the rope has been winched in.

Yes and a bit more with the offset pulley I got, I also bought a cheap ground anchor. It's expensive for what it is and I bought it for a specific job pre extracting some badly felled ash on a steepish hillside prior to forwarding out with the County, in exchange for some firewood and a daily contribution to the winch cost. The job was halted unnecessarily because of the lockdown and I think someone else will do it now. So it has only been used on half a dozen jobs felling ash by roadside and public rights of way and I am pleased with its performance. It did surprise me how much it wound up the rope, ideally I would throw the rope off a boat and let it unwind itself but now I run it out of the bag (100 metres of it) and back after a few uses. The torsion it puts in the rope is local to the area of the rope coming off the drum but doesn't re distribute itself back along the rope as one might expect. I have never changes the speed gear yet as the slow speed full pull is adequate.

I suspect you missed the slight whoosh as my hot air passed by your head. Of course while I am hard of thinking I'm not hard of comprehension

Oh so not even black and tan?