Tyz05
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Everything posted by Tyz05
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Cracking pics. Like the last one going back in the new year?
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No probs,if all the the lamps are illuminating as you say it sounds like the relays are working fine. Electrics eh??!
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Check the fuel inertia cut off switch under the bonnet. That and the relays under the drivers seat cause problems. I chased a similar problem on a customers recently,nothing shows up on diagnostics. Inertia switch is on the bulkhead next to brake servo,check it is full depressed and the plug on the bottom is secure. When you turn the ignition on, which lights come on on the dash?can you hear the fuel pump buzz?
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beat me to it!
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Try the yellow ignition relays under the drivers seat if it still plays up. Sounds like you found the problem.
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Can't help with the bits ,had a look through the old saws at work this morning but all plain handles. That's a pic of my 390,you can't have them though lol. sorry.
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To save any more confusion, I take it you mean these inserts?
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What have they done to it for £200?!make sure it's got a full tank when you get it back for that.
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Tried a pair of gladiators and hi flex yesterday. The stretch airs were good and was gonna buy them until I tried the hi flex.The hi flex felt a lot lighter and less restrictive. Cheers for the heads up.
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Sounds like you got an air leak some where causing the fuel to run back to the tank. Can you hear the pump working in the fuel tank when you turn the ignition on?
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Nutty-er than squirrel s#@!
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That's what I wanted to hear,been looking at hi flex, liked the look of the tougher material.
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I'm in the market for new pair of trousers,looking at buying type c as planing on doing tickets in new year. Do I need class 2? Most of my work is on the ground,larger saws at times.Does any one climb in them or are they too restrictive? Only ever worn type a so any addvice appreciated. Thanks
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If you have a voltage metre to hand check the voltage on the starter terminal rather than the wire when trying to start. Got a vw had similar symptom this morning,bad conection causing voltage drop after split second. Enough to make it click but then nothing. Try removing the solinoid wire and cleaning conections.
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All I know is it's horrible stuff to work on and repair,I know this points out the obvious but don't go walking on it! I speak from experience and have the scars and limp to prove.How big are the leaks are they isolated to parts of the roof or is it leaking everywhere?
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Always had trouble with these daf brakes when MOT comes around strip it all out, check and clean every thing. The cables are the first thing to cause trouble,make sure they are free and adjusted right up. As some one else has already said arrange a brake test prior to re test, two failures won't look good on on OL. just a thought but check slave cylinders are returning properly, if they sticking they hold the shoes open until hand brake is applied making adjustment difficult and inaccurate.
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Had similar request recently. Advised them to avoid wet firewood,told them to consult their chimney sweep for second opinion, he told them the same. Maybe you could try the same to highlight the importance of using a good quality firewood and the problems that could arise if they don't. Something on paper to show the manager might be a start. Forward a link to this forum???
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It would make sense. But don't think it would be suitable on more modern fuel systems.
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Good stuff. Hopefully it will be looked after better in the future.
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Never thought of splashing some clean engine oil in the fuel. I've seen td5 driven from Bristol to Exeter on nearly neat petrol, no damage done. I've seen others not even make it off the forcourt. If it's still alright come weekend buy yourself a lottery ticket.
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Sounds like you might have got away with it. I should advise you to drain the fuel still. Seriously it's your call but you may save a lot of money by towing it to a garage or draining the tank and changing the fuel filter asap. It's a modern car and the fuel systems can be expensive.
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Doesn't sound too good. Couldn't say for sure but it sound like the petrol has damaged the fuel system. The petrol will distroy seals and cause components to sieze as it offers no lubrication. Best advice is don't try and start it, may end up doing more damage. The fact that it was running offers some hope, get it to a garage,Hopefully there is a sensor recognising fuel system is contaminated. The fact that the dealer told you to drive it is concerning,don't take it to them!
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Cheers for posting.Amazing detail in those.How did it get so over grown?I'm assuming it's privatly owned?
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Tidy looking job. I'd be no good in there,to easily distracted,can't help but read head stones. Bet there's some interesting ones amongst those they look pretty old.
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The use of universal oil in tractors now is becoming rare. It's still used in the older machines due to the fact it can be used in both the engine and transmission/hydraulics,making it convenient. Most of the earlier machines run simple hydraulic systems and external brakes. Due to the speed, size and complexity of modern day machinery universal oil provides insufficient protection for brakes,pumps etc. Modern Synthetic oil contains cleaning adatives which will "wash"old engines causing them to burn oil due to their greater tolerances. Modern engines require this to extend the service life of internal componets. Due to old engines burning oil to an extent they always require topping up,this constant addition of fresh oil provided extra protection between service intervals. I'l stop waffling now.
