Joe Newton

Sometimes they can be bloody challenging. We can all climb big mature beech trees, to be able to work a widespread connie that's been topped ten years ago is a real test for me ...

Fair enough, never used the husky one, I reckon I'll wait a year to see if there are any teething pains before I consider one. No, run in is not the same as worn out. Any new saw will improve slightly with a few tanks through it. The modification is a simple one, for a noticeable gain. Shame Stihl couldn't have put it as standard, but you know, emission compliances etc

Stubby, how long did you run the 201 for? Like you I was bitterly disappointed by it at first, but after about 2 weeks running in, I pick it over the older saw! It really improves once all the moving parts bed together. ( widening the exhaust also makes a helluva difference too)

Whats the difference?

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07i1R21e7qE]Tim Minchin - Prejudice - Ready For This? UK Version - YouTube[/ame]

You iz to edjucated n stuff fo dis game.

Cool vid Arran, looks like SRT is really working for you. I haven't make the jump to it yet, but if you're at Wayne's climb maybe you can offer some advice. Are you using a pantin to ascent up the trunk, or just hauling yourself up the rope like a boss?

Old Mill (hope you don't mind me using your first name:001_tt2:), Would it work well if I chose to swap the cinch over for a pulley/v.t adjuster? I'm sure the cinch is great, but I use my strop on the left side. Is it ambidextrous? Its the reason I got rid of my grillon for a hitch. Found the hitch is much smoother too.

Thats an excellent alternative to a brutal reduction. We all know that for the tree's benefit a light reduction and thin would have been better. This may not however have suited the clients needs. A classic case of wrong tree, wrong place. Again though, if the client didn't wish to spend big money, a removal and replanting (whilst ideal) may not have been cost effective. Seems to me that the client was after a "smaller tree" for the best price. This is bread and butter work. You can discuss the best practice 'til you're blue in the face with people, but the bottom line is, they want if smaller for cheap. If he hadn't done it, someone else would have.

No. I didn't say that. If you read my post I state that sometimes it isn't feasible for what the client wants.

So L200, what would your reccomandation be? It looks to be at minimum a 40% reduction, which I know is frowned upon. Yet sometimes clients look out of their windows and think "Gosh, that tree suddenly got big!". They have an idea in mind of what size they want it, and they are happy to pay someone to make it so. In a front garden scenario I can fully understand why a bigger tree would be an issue. Its a given that that oak is never going to achieve veteran status. If the company had any sense he should explain to them what to expect (i.e. the necessity for regular pruning to come), and as long as the client is made aware and happy to accept those circumstances then I don't understand the problem. It'd be nice to work on large estate trees where space is abundant and sympathetic reductions are always convenient, yet in my experience of mostly domestic work in small to mid sized gardens, sometimes it is necessary. I should state that I'm not picking an argument here, but I've only worked for one company and this kind of job is what we do. I'm merely hoping to gain a little insight and education of a practical alternative. Apologies O.P, didn't mean to derail.

Out of interest what were the clients objectives in getting this tree worked on, and how does the job that was done compare. I realise that 12 months from now it'll look like an afro, but the company who I work for carrys out similar work from time to time, due to the clients request. I have only worked for this company so its kind of how I've learnt things.

Doesn't seem like the "tarmac and trim" brigade though. We treat a lot of housing association trees similarly. Cyclic pruning I believe its called. Whilst you and I may know that a more sensitive reduction would be more aesthetically pleasing to our eyes, this might have been exactly what the client was after, and for a better price. I sometimes think that no matter how you try to describe the best course of action and how it will look, the client still has a picture of a "lollipop" tree in their minds. Not knocking how you quoted, or what you would have done, but just food for thought. I have seen many a worse reduction!

ICE set??

So got absolutely pee'd on today, reducing a bunch of lovely slippy ash. I'm thinking that the gorgeous weather we've been having has turned me into a bit of a girly boy about these things now. The wet cold hands got me all upset, and I've spotted these gloves on Clarkes. Thermal and waterproof for under a tenner? Seems a bit too good! Anyone used these? If they last a month than I'll have found true happiness. Any feedback would keep my oestrogen levels down. Cheers

Bingo.

There's such a thing as perceived value too. If you're a well gelled team and good at what you do, you shouldn't charge less because you can get it done faster. I'd put a steady half day on, around £300, and I'd probably take 3hrs max. Got to allow for the unknown, I.e. nails in the tree, field sharpening time etc.

I do bits and bobs but I could always do with new techniques to try out (and new shinies to buy). Maybe see you there!

Alright Wayne? If you're popping across I may see you there. Should be interesting and may learn a thing or two!

IS it possible to deduce from this that its very easy to watch a video, identify a potential target and think: "Gosh Darnitt, thats risky"? Whereas when you're actually on site and in the mix, you know what is a safely calculated risk, and whats just a little daft. Your vid looks unorthodox and risky from a computer screen, yet you got it down fine. Same as the OP. From what I've read/seen of these guys, they're not weekend warriors, or chancers. So what may look hairy from your monitor was more likely fair judgement and experience. Chogs can bounce around as easily on a lowering line as tarmac.

Well the Tree Motion or the Tree Austria are widely regarded as being very good, versatile and comfy saddles. I find that Komet Butterfly (about £200) does me well. Not great, but for work its enough.

A lot of "what ifs" in this job. Same as any. What if didn't happen. Nice one lads. Quite a few what ifs in this video too:http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/video-forum/33312-dadio-throws-big-top.html

Fair play for having the balls to tackle it with a bit of youtube knowledge, I just hope he doesn't come a cropper. If the lad is wanting to learn it'd be better to have someone with experience at least overseeing it. Y'know, stop him from killing himself...

Get fit? I'll stick to my stick regime or beer, fags and kebabs! I still do alright though I'm bored, so I'll try and find the cheapest starter kit to get you going: Arbortec TH5000 harness: £150 Yale XTC Plus 13mm climbing rope: £70 Marlow Boa 9mm friction cord 3m (enough for 2 prussiks): £5 Yale magma 13mm climbing rope 5m: £10 Triple action karabiners x2: £25 Petzl Alveo Vent climbing helmet: £43 Total £303. Thats a very basic kit to get you going, you can add to it and expand as you gain experience. I've not tried that harness, but the rest is good kit. Might be worth spending a bit more on a harness and get one that is right for you.