Big T

Hiya! The pulley I used was cast steel. I very much doubt if Timberwolf had the pulleys specially manafactured, they prob just dont keep them on their shelves anymore! The pulley I used was fitted to the engine shaft, to drive the flywheel pulley belts. Im not sure if you need the same type of pulley but its worth having a look at that website, they have all sorts of stuff on there! I think my pulley (called a "Taperlock") was about £14, and the "Taper Bearing" (bit that goes inside the pulley to fit it to the engine shaft) was about £4!

If you need a new pulley take a look at Bearings, Ball & SKF Bearings, Safety Boots, Castors, Wedge & V Belts I fitted ine of their "Taperlock" pulleys to my Entec chippit, was real easy. All you need to know is the diameter of the pulley, how many groves you need in the pulley and the diameter of the shaft you are fitting it to. I found the easiest way was to look at the pulley first, then it will list the size of "Taperlock Bearing" you need to fit it to the shaft size you have. Hope this helps!

Sawdust, white spirit and brasso! Mix it all together then dip it in molten wax. To use break it open and "fluff" it up, will take a spart realy easily and burn for ages! We make these to take into the woods for firelighting when we are bushcrafting.

Thanks mate, I`m glad I didnt spend the £40 on mounts then!

I got the Oregon Yukon type "A"s, they are wicked for the money! Very lightweight and feel like wearing pajamas!

Well done mate!

Cheers mate! I got it sorted in the end, it was the drive belts. They were "egg" shaped after sitting idle for a year or so, popped 2 new ones on and it has made a big differance. I did buy a rubber roller that is fitted to boat trailers and was going to chop that up and use it but the engine seems fine now:) Will just have to use the chipper now and see how the engine performs! Will post some pics later if anyones interested.

They are if you get the turbo diesel or the 6 cylinder ones! I used to have a straight diesel, wouldnt pull the skin off a rice puddin! Ended up nicknaming it the "Stroller"! Good vans if you get one with a decent engine, mechanically very good just let down by rust. I would have another, especially if it sprinted instead of mincing!

Thats not a bad idea! I have looked at getting rubber mounts but it works out quite expensive, will see if I can get some think rubber sheet as im sure it will do the same thing:)

It does vibrate a bit, it might be down to the drive belts as they are king of "Egg" shaped because the machine sat idle for around 12 months, might try changing them a s sii if that makes a differance.

Will do mate, its all looking good so far! I did a bit of reasearch and quite a few people rate these engines, they aint as bad as they used to be! It`s got a 6 month commercial warranty if its fitted to plant or machinery so it must be something like it!

Hiya, I have just replaced the engine in my chipper, the old Kholer blew up and has been replaced by a honda copy. The Kholer was solid mounted to the chipper (No rubber anti vibration mounts). The new engine works fine but does vibrate a bit, I know it will seeing as its a single cylinder instead of a twin but will this cause any real harm? Are engines soild mounted in other machinery?

Bits are still avaliable if anyone needs anything!

Cheers for that mate but got the launtop in the end, fitted it yesterday and it seems to work fine!

I "b" in `elston (Helston) ma ansum!

Cheers mate! Cornish ingenuity at its best!

For a quick brew in the woods I always use either a swedish army trangia set or a home made Lynx can stove (google it, real easy to make!), both run on meths and get a cup or 2 of water boiling in no time!

Made from 30mmx30mm angle iron, 6mm WBP plywood then a sheet of 3mm PVC which is now signwritten! Took me a couple of days and cost approx £120 in materals and a few welding rods!

Have you heard about a product called the "Loadhandler"? Do a search on here and it will show you what I mean, I have one and its alot easier than unloading by hand and much cheaper than a tipper!

ARC is not much more difficult than MIG. The hardest part of ARC welding is getting the rod to arc up without sticking to the workpiece, if the welding rods are damp this can happen alot and is frustrating! It is also scarey to the first time welder as the rod will overheat and glow red as its shorting out on the workpiece! If it does stick and you cant get it off with a flick of your wrist (ooh err...) then the best thing to do is to squeeze the handles of the rod holder together so the rod is left stuck to the workpiece, let it cool (as it will be very hot!) then pull if off with a pair of pliers. The flux coating will now be damaged and this will cause the rod to stick more than before so its best to start off with a fresh rod! after a few hours you will have mastered this and it wont be a problem! When ARC wekding you want to weld from the left of the workpiece to the right of it(if your right handed), so you are "Pulling" the rod. The idea is to leave the "slag" behind and weld away from it, if you try and weld over the slag it will be a pourous weld and not very strong. MIG welding is more tollerant as you are flooding the area being welded with gas which prevents a contaminated weld. The bottom line is that most people find MIG easier because you pull a trigger and it welds, ARC requires a bit more patience but not enough to put you off! Hope this helps!

If you want to Stick weld (ARC) then any of the cheaper welding sets will be fine, the Clarke range at Machine Mart are ok. They are basically a big transformer in a box so they are all very much the same underneath. They will weld a variety of thicknesses of metal with the correct thickness of rod, but anything 1mm or below (such as car body panels) are best off welded with MIG.

If you want a MIG then ignore the "gasless" models, they are a pain in the a*s! Better off with a gas model and sort yourself out with a contract at BOC as the small disposable gas cylinders dont last very long and work out expensive in the long run! Try and find a model with a "Euro" type torch as these are much easier to use than the cheaper ones, less effort is required to press the trigger which leaves your hand easier to move and complete a good weld. I have a Cebora "Pocket Mig" which dosent have a euro torch but its the best non euro one I have come across, nice and smooth trigger. The same model was sold under the "Snap on" brand for ALOT more money! Another brand worth looking at are Miller, you will prob have to go second hand to get one but from memory the decent sets new started at around £400.

Thanks guys!

Cheers:) I looked at the trainee one but it looks like you still have to enter qualification details to apply for the card!?

Hiya, Work is non exixtant at the mo so Im thinking of doing some building site labouring. To do this I need a CSCS card, but I have no qualifications in building (hence looking at being a lobourer). On the CSCS website you seem to have to have a qualification to apply for the card, is this the case or am I missing something?!