Simon R
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Everything posted by Simon R
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First generation ingersoll rand 19.2 is total rubbish but the newest 20volt one is meant to be as powerfull as the 2135 qtimax air gun(I have this and if it is as powerfull then it will be awesome,but not sure if it is available in the uk till later in the year.??? At the moment I have the facom which is the most powerfull on the market at the moment (500nm and more powerfull than the snapon), the new ones come with 18volt battery's because the 19.2v battery's were rubbish and wouldn't even take 4 wheel nuts of before being flat.....(I got all my battery's changed under warranty......no probs. According to mac/facom tool guy the battery's have a ten year warranty,but they don't like to tell you that......had mine 2 years and recently replaced a 19.2v battery for 18v one..again no prob at all......:thumbup:
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Check for a good spark on the problem cylinder with spark tester.... Possible coil breaking down under load........set air gap on ignition unit to about .008/.010 thou....
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We use chikara at our place for most of the spray jobs (mixes with glyphosate) lasts about 4/6 months,but you will have to check the data sheet for all information!
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As a cheap domestic machine then they are ok and parts not to bad to get, but they are still a cheap machine!!! You would be better getting a Honda or Viking ,should be able to get a new or nearly new machine and it will be more reliable leave a nicer finish and last a hell of a lot longer:thumbup:
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Think there's one at billinghay?
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If you drive for "hire or reward" then you will need cpc!! At the moment you can still get on the course for free and it's just an attendance course but in 2014 you will have to pay and also pass a written test at the end.
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If its to tension the drive belt then it needs to be disengaged (slack belt)to start engine,then when engine is running slowley re-engage lever to tension belt to engage chipper??
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Have a look under the steering column at the clutch pedel where it connects to the clutch master cylinder to see if is damp with fluid,if it is then easy to replace,pull r-clip that connects rod to pedel and pull of, then go under bonnet and pull of the pipe from the side of the main master cylinder, then just twist clutch master cylinder 1/4 turn and it will pull out of the bulkhead. Easy job (10 mins) If its the slave cylinder,again easy job,(under vehicle in side of gearbox)clamp flexi pipe....pull out c-clip and pull flexi out of slave cylinder,then twist slave 1/4 turn and it will come out. there is a bleed nipple on the back of the slave to bleed this and the master(this turns 1/2 turn to open). if its neither of these then it'll be the dual mass flywheel thats knackered. get a solid flywheel clutch conversion,about £200 for complete kit. sorry for rambling on...
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Vanguard is pretty much bullet proof if looked after,and produces quite a bit of torque so does not need to be revved as much as say a kawasaki fh500which revs higher to produce its power.
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Try an older model F1145 or F935 with 60" deck should be within budget, all with yanmar diesels:thumbup:
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Get a decent secondhand john deere 1445 with a 62" rear discharge deck!!!!! cuts anything and they be bullet proof.
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check if the antifreeze was made in europe or usa/japan......usa/japan stuff contains phosphates and will cause a build up of scale over time(they think this is better stuff) european made is best.
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Dont be mislead by the colour! check bottle to see what chemicals it contains... If in doubt, drain it out! If you can not determine what your current antifreeze is, drain the entire system, flush it clean, and refill. Never mix different antifreeze types. The combinations of chemicals can cause unwanted oxidation ,corrosion, and degradation of cooling properties.
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Looks like you caught it in time then...
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That could have been the start of the problem,if the shaft is all ragged up with twine and stuff it may be stopping the shaft turning properley and generating friction/heat which in turn is not good for bearings.
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Its hard to say what damage has been done.....At best its just a knackered bearing which wont be too expensive,the heat will have melted all the grease out and possibly seized the bearing and the shaft could be spinning inside the bearing wearing it away instead,that could be expensive??? Had a BCS flail a couple of years ago.......WORST piece of junk on the planet,very unreliable,spent more time in the workshop than out earning its keep,boss soon got rid and told the rep too never come back.
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Blec rotorake and poweroll turf roller.
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INCIPIO make some nice case's, some look a bit flimsy but there tough as old boots.
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Voodoo do some cracking bikes, but unfortunatley they are only available from halfords.(buy online coz the shop staff are a bunch of idiots) I ride the original Bantu that got 10/10 and won the mtb awards.:001_smile: closest model to this spec is now the bokor,new bantu has been stripped and aint a patch on the old
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AMA do a basic helmet with mesh visor and ear defenders for less than £20 or is that too basic!!
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Sorry meant to say log on to powersharp.eu not .co.uk try for free link at the top:thumbup1:
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If you log on to the powersharp website there is a try for free link!! they are giving 1000 sets away for free(maybe can't sell em). type in yer details and select your saw from the list and get a free set, then leave feedback and get another chain set for free aswell!!
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Have faith........its not as bad as it looks!! Best approach is to "Be methodical",maybe take so pictures as you go along as reference for later... Flywheel can get tight coz its on a taper with key,splitting engine can be tight coz its stuck with sealant,no gasket, we use wurth rtv black to re-seal same on valve cover.the pin that holds the top cam pulley on just pushes out with a small pin punch then just leave cambelt in situ, it has 2 timing marks on it so you wont get it wrong....
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Kevlar tyre liner and innertubes will do the trick,we use them on some of our large ride on machinery but i think they are quite expensive.
