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agrimog

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Everything posted by agrimog

  1. once you find out how to stop it moving, let us all know, just when I think I've got it sussed, the next bit I mill does what it likes, lay it flat, sticker it well, and weight it down and hope it dries flat.......good luck
  2. going to be there, looking for a new splitter!
  3. when you connect it to water and sewage it ceases to be a portable structure and requires planning permission, so portaloo and a big jug for water, problem solved
  4. agrimog

    1700 mog

    depends on which pto system is fitted, is the vehicle fitted with the merc hydraulic system, does it have a working gear set fitted, these all dictate prices and sutibility. Linkages, tipper setups and bits can all be added, but without the basics, its not a good starting platform
  5. any H&S guy who is any good will have made his job surplus to requirements within a week, ie he will have sorted out all the problems and put in place safe working policies, most of the wankers in these jobs keep changing the goalposts to justify there own glorified ideas of self importance, as I have said many times before, asll that is really needed is a return to the use of common sense
  6. £250 a day plus any damages, and depending on distance a millage charge, usually distances over 50miles of my base
  7. sorry mate, just checked your last post, you are a combat medic, basic trauma pack in the molle bag, cover everything youll ever need
  8. get to know your combat medics, see if you can score a basic trauma pack off them, couple of israeli battle dressings and some of the new celox ones as well, save you a fortune, and get your first aid qualifications up to date, easier as a serving member than an unemployed civvie
  9. Dean, as Mike says, have a good look at the american site, most of the "log" homes sold in the uk are actually machined timber builds, and as such suffer from all the problems of shrinkage, building a "proper" log building using the butt and pin technique gets rid of most of these, yes you still get shrinkage, but its around the core on the pin, youve just got to keep on top of your chinking, no big gaps above windows and doors, this is the old fashioned way of doing it, and is a much better way of building
  10. there is an easy way to make this go away, but it needs folk to stick together, simply blacklist any company that starts calling for FISA rules, if a company is looking for someone to fell a stand and all they get back is "sorry, we dont work for anyone who forces FISA on us" the message will soon get out, why should a group of individuals and a few big concerns be able to dictate what everyone else has to do in an industry, there is always a few who will see a way to force there ideas through by bully boy tacticts, but if people stand up to them, they will back down. if the industry does not start to stand up and be counted its going to get worse, very soon youll need a ticket just to look at a tree and sombody is going to get very rich doing f**k all but writing bits of paper, look at the construction industry, they dont even accept each others certs any more
  11. as for these refresher courses, some of the so called instructors, I've had more days holidays than some of these guys have actually had working with a saw in the woods
  12. there seems to be a problem here with timber types...elm, american...**** burns poorly, elm english, once dry terrific burning, got to get across to these colonials, there is more timber types than what grows on there soil, they are NOT the world, and never will be, just because it doesnt happen over there, doesnt mean it doesnt happen anywhere else.....and back to the initial question, how much is the original poster going to pay to have the dead trees taken away, no-ones going to pay him for them...lol
  13. how longs a bit of string !, as Big J says there are so many variables with a mobile set up you dont know how much timber till the end of the shift
  14. thats an inspiring article Morten, something I might try, I've got a cabin to build for a client and that floor layout would be stunning
  15. perfect use for a nice bit of oak, would have needed 1 1/4 floor boards here, the joys of living in an old house...lol
  16. his wide floorboards were first dried and conditioned in a logosol sona kiln. so they should be nice and stable after there down, scandanavians going back to the basics once again
  17. nice work,impressed
  18. the whole carbon/global warming/greenhouse gas thing is a red herring put about by corrupt politicians and corporate b(w)ankers to try and hide every thing else there trying to get away with, all one has to do is look at the records of temp rises and falls over the last 100 years and you can start to see the natural cycle of things
  19. funny how our eastern european palls have a much better notion of health and safety than our molly coddled morons, the man has used his common sense, and is aware of what he's doing. not a lot of ambulance chasing klingon lawyers in eastern europe...lol
  20. theres an awfull lot of plantation forestry up here in scotland that isnt capable of mechanical felling and extraction, and soon there's going to be a shortage of fellers with the skills required to work them. It isnt quite as easy as folk seem to think to go into a standing on a steep (read near vertical) banking and selectively fell out the required trees, without destroying everything around you, or yourself, then get them out to a collection point. I love the forwarders and harvesters available at the moment, but the industry needs to think about training some new blood with the skillls needed for extreme extraction before all our skills are lost
  21. a bit of paper from a few days course doesnt make you qualified, years of training and experience does that... too many newly "trained" "arborists" out there thinking they know it all.....the bubble has got to burst soon
  22. logosol and norwood both done by logosol in the uk up at bentham in the borders, google logosol, or speak to Ruth on 01361840389, she is a mine of info on there products
  23. the length of beam your looking for, and the quantity your going to require, I would sugest you get all your stock into one place and look at contracting someone in with a bandsaw, or a lucas/peterson swing mill, your going to have problems on that length with an alaskan unless your guide rail is very "stiff", to guarantee straight boards you really need to be looking at something like a logosol timberjig or even an m7 or m8 mill, not saying you cant do it with an alaskan, but your going to spend a lot of time setting your first cuts up, for what you want I personally would look at a swing mill, but each to there own

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