Daniël Bos

I have a couple of the dolmar 5105's. Bought them as I often had other people using them (which my 550's didn't like) This worked well, they're everybody's friend. They're strong, super easy to start (easier than an ms180!) And no electrickery carbs. They do feel a little clumsier than the 550 and are a bit fatter, as well as a tad heavier. I've also found them a bit more thirsty. But, if it's a one man forestry saw, I'd definitely get a 550xpg. It's quicker, nimbler and lighter. The disadvantages of it being slightly less user friendly aren't really an issue if you're the only one using it. And it'll earn more money by being the quickest.

Nice bit of wood there! Bit of advice: put more stickers in! Get them right near the very ends of the board as well, the way that stack is now it's likely that the ends of the boards will move meaning a lot of timber wasted. Fijne Paasdagen!

Sure, the cut needs to be deep enough. A gentle scratching won't do much! I've done this quite succesfully before though. But in a private wood where the danger of the severely damaged trees didn't pose a serious risk to anyone and not on trees at the edge. Had one or two snap off in a storm but that was ok. I think it is also used for milling species like plane, where the sap can stain the milled wood otherwise. Either felling the trees in full leaf but not snedding them or ringing them deeply without felling them has the same effect. In the op's case it doesn't matter that much though?

It's perhaps worth noting that in the eyes of the law, intentionally killing a tree also counts as felling, whether you cut it down or not... This means you could nip in, ringbark 5CuM worth of tree each quarter -without needing a felling licence- going in in the fourth quarter to fell and process the lot. This also has the advantage of drying the timber whilst standing (it dries very quickly this way, as the leaves suck out any moisture they can) but perhaps in this situation it's a moot point

Easiest way might be to find a trailer (chassis) with the right weight capacity, take the bed of and glue the chipper on. That way you don't fall foul of the rules regarding home built trailers, and it would be a quick and simple job.

Wheelbarrows are a peculiar thing. There's many people for which the barrow is a major part of the working day, yet rarely does anyone spend any money on one. My barrow was made by fort (marketed as belle -from the cement mixers- in the UK) and cost about £120. Every time someone uses my barrow, they'll agree that it's the nicest barrow to use. But I've yet to see another one in use somewhere. This Makita looks flimsy, unstable and awkward to use. And it's about £700. Without batteries or charger...

I'm pretty sure following my logic is beyond you, my logic involves a thing called compassion for which one requires empathy. A quality which appears entirely void in you. I'm not accusing you of being a racist, it's not my opinion, it's not my thoughts. It's a fact, you are a racist. Not a "racist", not a "so called racist", an actual racist. I base this statement on earlier white supremacy vileness you've posted before, not the drivel you come up with now.

There's really no need to apologise. You're arguing with an entity that expressed the belief that people with darker skin are inferior to those with lighter skin, and the belief that what place you were born makes you....

Ok, so in short: The boiler temperature can have a big impact, but is not likely to be the only issue?

I think the problem isn't simply paying for sex, it's what marriage is all about. It's the fact that the oxfam folk came from a very wealthy place, and rather than helping out the populus where they were sent they took advantage of the vast disparity in financial situations between one of the richest nations and one struck by disaster. It is likely the prostitutes in question would not sell their bodies had their country, their lives, their income abilities etc not been entirely crushed. So it's taking advantage of another human's misfortune by people paid and sent there to help better the situation.

There are several biodegradable options available. Some made from plastics made from corn and potato starch, others from fortified cardboard like stuff. They're not quite good enough yet though. The potato ones i trialed were saggy and soggy and on the floor after one year. The corn ones were a nightmare to put on and fell apart in less than two. Gave feedback to the manufacturers who both ensured me that better things are on their way

Whut, use another forum!?!?! What if Steve B finds out?

wind direction or strength doesn't seem to make much difference. Not tried just burning kindling, but i'd have thought if it was a draw issue like that it would eventually remedy itself after burning for hours? It doesn't change whether it's just lit or going for hours/days.

He's not been logged in for nearly two months now, fingers crossed he reads this

Nope, an extra vent was put in an outside wall, windows/door open makes no difference

I suppose my main question is: can a badly controlled back boiler reduce the firebox temperature so much as to have caused this?

It is insulated. Twin wall selkirk from the ceiling above the cooker to the cowl. The only single bit is from the cooker to the ceiling. It doesn't have a ladomat i think, but a rather more complicated control system

That may have happened, but i don't believe it is the root cause as its never really been burning well imo. If that was the cause it would have slowly got worse.

I don't accept cheques (they were fased out in the 80's in the civilised world...) Bank transfer only, payment to be in within 30 days. I rarely do small jobs for mrs miggins though. Only once had a customer pay late.

My estranged wife just had a chimney fire. Not much damage done and the kids were with me so no drama. (a house full of firemen made her happy too, they went and checked the house, replaced the smoke alarms in the bedroom [emoji1]) She burns in a brand new esse range cooker with backboiler. Single skin flue to the ceiling with a 45 degree whoopty where it goes through to clear a rafter, then twin walled. All 6“. Wood is all dry (23% was the highest measurement) mainly hawthorn, blackthorn and ash. All split to less than 4", most of it near 3", 8-10" long. Chimney was swept 4 weeks ago. Since it was installed it has been too smokey (when adding wood, the house would fill with smoke) for my liking, never got it to really roar, it was checked over several times by both the installer and esse people and they could find no fault, blamed wet wood and brought some kd beech which was worse (and measured higher mc than my wood) What could have caused it? The only reasons i have left: the chimney not being high enough? Its a square pyramid shaped house, chimney comes through the middle of one side and is just higher than the peak of the house. Or/and The water being pumped though before its hot enough. The pump and heat exchange system is remote controlled by telemetry from afar. So this should be easy to remedy. But id have thought the installers would have looked there first? (i wasn't involved in the install, we're busy divorcing) Also, could that cause so much cooling of the firebox to become a major issue? The fire brigade checked everything and ensured her it was safe to burn again. She's reluctant as it was supposedly safe before and v nearly cost her her house!

Nah, i think youre correct. Think the translation of conifer is "carries cone" or summat like that. But; gymnosperm and conifer are not the same. All connies are gymnos, but not all gymnos are connies. For example, ginkos and cycads are gymnos but not connies. As mentioned above, gymnosperm means naked seed.

the osmo polyx is pretty good. choice of finish from gloss, satin or matt I think, it's a hard wax. You can use it on floors but it's also safe for wooden toys that may get chewed by bubs.

69.99 delivered, new... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SKATCO-52CC-PETROL-CHAINSAW-BRAND-NEW-PROFESSIONAL-POWER-TOOL/282649895290?_trkparms=pageci%3A5d409d87-0cf0-11e8-b6cd-74dbd1809548|parentrq%3A7654a0481610ab6ab94b7d9efffd6794|iid%3A1&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236

Oak can take an insanely long time to dry, the two year might be enough if it's less than 2" thick, but 1y/inch is really the minimum. It also looks like it has some browning, brown oak seems to always shrink more than normal.

When I saw the thread title I thought this was gonna be about surgery to correct an odd number of testicles...