Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

AHPP

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    6,137
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    25

Everything posted by AHPP

  1. Was talking to a UKIP spokesman about this yesterday. He reckoned it was the gays’ fault.
  2. As it happens, I've just got off the phone with a friend in a (usually) wet bit of Staffs. Loads has just fallen off his biggest beech tree.
  3. Gustharts were very helpful and Stihl eventually gave the same answers. Hope this is of use to someone. Rollomatic E Part Number 3003 000 5231 – 1.47 Kg Rollomatic ES Part Number 3003 000 9431 – 1.74 Kg (This has a replicable nose so increases the weight) Rollomatic ES Light Part Number 3003 000 2031 – 1.27 Kg
  4. It’s piss easy. A friend did mine a while ago. I just watched and drank wine but I could have done it.
  5. You’re a fucking useful bloke to have on here.
  6. You’d think Stihl UK would know but they didn’t yesterday. I’m summoning the strength to call the Germans.
  7. I want a light 25" bar for a Stihl. The lightest I've been able to find the weights for are the Sugi Hara ST2U-3Q63-A (https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/product/st2u-3q63-a-sugihara-light-type-pro-25-3-8-063-84-drive-links/) at 1390g and the Stihl Rollomatic E 30030005231 (https://www.radmoretucker.co.uk/shop/garden-machinery/chainsaws-tree-care/chainsaw-bars-chains/stihl-25-inch-guide-bar-38-063-rollomatic-e-3003-000-5231/) at 1361g. I suspect the Stihl ES Light 30030002031 (https://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Chainsaws-Lawn-Mowers-Leaf-Blowers-And-More/Chainsaws-and-Telescopic-Pole-Pruners/Guide-bars/21904-1630/Rollomatic-ES-Light-3-8-1-6-mm.aspx) is lighter. Does anyone know the weight or could anyone who has one put it on some scales for me please?
  8. AHPP

    Sharpening jigs

    If anyone is selling any kind of jig (Granberg or bench grinder included), please send me a private message.
  9. Simple and probably it.
  10. AHPP

    Sharpening jigs

    You’re the guy. Is there a jig that will take a Dremel or is it either Dremel freehand or Granberg jig?
  11. AHPP

    Sharpening jigs

    Thanks for the replies so far. I'm surprised nobody has mentioned the Granberg grinder, which I'm currently leaning towards (EDIT: apart from the guy who did...).
  12. I'd be thrilled if I had a saw that ran on diesel but it smells of petrol. I was hoping the colour might be recognised as a common one for two stroke bike fuel or something.
  13. This questionable looking brew came out of a second hand saw I just bought. The guy said he didn’t know what it was, just that he acquired it from work and it’s the fuel that goes into the work’s cut off saws. I’ve only ever used Stihl red and green so it looked alien to me. Proper stuff or a glug of 10w40 per tank?
  14. My sharpening is OK, maybe 7/10. I want to make it very good, at least 9/10, the sort of sharpen where people try your saws and more of them than not say, "Fuck me, that's sharp." (and it cuts straight). I'm currently doing the cutters freehand and the depth gauges with a Stihl gauge (but taking it off to do the actual filing because it's soft steel - changing to the hard Husky gauge already on the cards). I sharpen at a vice 95% of the time. What filing/grinding jigs are people using? Respectfully, I'm not interested in hearing from dead eye dicks that can do it on their lap in the woods in ninety seconds. I can't. I am interested in hearing from people who started using a jig and got results.
  15. The leaf blowing bloke being followed by the spectre in hi viz... Victorian industrialists are looking at us and laughing themselves to a second death.
  16. Is that rope that shows red strands if overloaded or if too hot?
  17. He didn’t but we can all improve.
  18. My guess is that the 251 is a good saw for you. Spend a fraction of what you’d spend on a new saw on good quality fuel (I use motomix) and sharpening equipment and put the time into learning to sharpen.
  19. My saw philosophy is incrementally larger bars with the lightest power head you can get away with for each. My ideal quiver would probably be 12” 150, 16” 201, 20” 261, 25” 362 (and 30” 462, 36” 661, 48” 880 if I really had to have big saws). What I actually have is a 12” 170 and a big silky and they do more than you’d think.
  20. https://www.lawgazette.co.uk/news/attorney-general-must-explain-cps-disclosure-failings/5066884.article
  21. But to actually break them?
  22. What on earth are they doing to them?
  23. A lot of people (twenty-year-experienced climbers, company owners, kit salesmen) don’t know what it is. I can tell a mile off that you’ve done your homework and you’re not thinking in the box that 95% of tree workers are. You’ve already worked out which old school stuff is shit and you’ll be furious by about hour three of the course at how lo-fi it is. You’ll probably be teaching your instructor things by the end of day one. Good luck with your climbing but I reckon you’ll have it sorted pretty quickly. Have a search for my post/thread on my chest harness. That’s how I keep my hitch and wrench tended on ascents. It’s actually a bit better now but you’ll get the idea.

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.