Cut4fun

Yep. The decomp plug should have a small washer on it to help stop vibrating out like that. Otherwise you could add the decomp button back to saw if needed and you have hole in top cover. Pic http://www.hlsproparts.com/Decompression-plug-for-chainsaw-cut-off-saw-p/t635701.htm?Click=2142&utm_source=ShopzillaPLA&utm_Medium=CSE&utm_term=T635701

I just bumped the thread to the top for ya too.

Thread Login copy some of it. Also 350 and jred brothers Service Bulletin for 357XP, 359, 353, 346XP This service bulletin is not new. I thought that there might be some out there who were not aware of it so here it is. If your saw has a black plastic clamp around the intake right next to the cylinder it is applicable to it. If the clamp is of steel construction then you should be ok. B0600023 SERVICE *537 43 88-01* *compl 537 25 13-02 English 1 (1) SB, 357 XP, 359, 353, 346 XP, Partition wall and clamp for intake system, 2006-03 The existing intake system on 357XP, 359,353 and 346XP currently consists of an integrated plastic clamp in the partition wall. As the clamp is made of plastic, there is a risk of deformation. This results in impaired clamping force against the cylinder, which in turn can result in leakage in the intake system. To prevent this from occurring, we have now introduced a metal clamp and a new partition wall. The new partition wall is made up of polyamide with 30 % fibre glass. The new clamp is a hardened steel clamp. The new material and the design of the clamp reduce the risk of deformation and the subsequent risk of leakage. Full replaceability prevails. Introduced from serial number: 357XP 061100201 359 061100001 353 061100001 346XP 061100001 New part no. Description Excl. part. no. Remark 537 25 13-02 Partition wall, intake, complete New spare part 537 43 88-01 Clamp, intake New spare part Spare part, partition wall, part number 537 25 13-01, has been discontinued and is replaced by part number 537 25 13-02.

I owned both and several of them. OE just less torque in cut and needs light hand and 325 chain. The NE loves 3/8 chain for bucking cuts. The OE can be ported to run with NE that has been ported. If the porter knows what he is doing. Also make sure you do the updates to the OE. Replace that plastic intake clamp before it warps and burns the saw up. = air leak. You can redneck the old partion and use 372 clamp or buy the updated kit. Have all the numbers on CSR posted already. If you need a copy paste here let me know.

I sold my 800V and the guy didnt want the 24" or 36" bars in D176. Being he bought a new 28" for it. Have a new JGX chain for the 36". Guess I might open up the slot to run on my D009 saws. Just so you know you can run D009 bars on the D176 too. Just a little sloppy fitting. Also there is a dealer on my chainsaw repair website that sells the adapter to run stihl bars on D176 saws. Just so you all know. Echo bar adapters 12mm to 8mm D176

Thinking out of the box like so many over here have started doing, making the switch. Have you guys been able to compare a echo 355T to the list here? Cheaper cost, lighter weight and same in the cut. I had sold my 338's to buy a 540. But after testing the demo I balked at it. I also owned 200 and sold it. I did like the 1 handing balance of the 338 better. Yeah I know voodoo for you guys. ECHO CS-355T 35.8 cc Top Handle Chain Saw - ECHO USA | ECHO USA

I purposely put a 166 piston back in backwards. Just make sure where your ring ends are. I also got a saw in with the piston in backwards and it wasnt out of balance or anything. It was just beating the ring land to death over the years from the pin being in the exhaust.

Neither. new and has to be stihl. I vote 461 or new 46;) Login

I have learned to just use a cheap pair of locking needle nose pliers. By the way was my wives idea and it worked.

Last 350 rebuild I did I even seen this for the first time. She must got hot hot hot.

Just get you a loop of PS or even PS3. If you do lot of bore cutting get PS. Best picco chain out there IMO. 3/8LP fastest stock chain too. http://chainsawrepair.createaforum.com/chain/picco-38lp-round-chisel-cutter-chain/

Updates if your saw is under serial number. Login Many threads on 350 rebuilds and options of topends. One on stock saws. Login Service Bulletin for 357XP, 359, 353, 346XP This service bulletin is not new. I thought that there might be some out there who were not aware of it so here it is. If your saw has a black plastic clamp around the intake right next to the cylinder it is applicable to it. If the clamp is of steel construction then you should be ok. B0600023 SERVICE *537 43 88-01* *compl 537 25 13-02 English 1 (1) SB, 357 XP, 359, 353, 346 XP, 350 Partition wall and clamp for intake system, 2006-03 The existing intake system on 357XP, 359,353 and 346XP currently consists of an integrated plastic clamp in the partition wall. As the clamp is made of plastic, there is a risk of deformation. This results in impaired clamping force against the cylinder, which in turn can result in leakage in the intake system. To prevent this from occurring, we have now introduced a metal clamp and a new partition wall. The new partition wall is made up of polyamide with 30 % fibre glass. The new clamp is a hardened steel clamp. The new material and the design of the clamp reduce the risk of deformation and the subsequent risk of leakage. Full replaceability prevails. Introduced from serial number: 357XP 061100201 359 061100001 353 061100001 346XP 061100001 New part no. Description Excl. part. no. Remark 537 25 13-02 Partition wall, intake, complete New spare part 537 43 88-01 Clamp, intake New spare part Spare part, partition wall, part number 537 25 13-01, has been discontinued and is replaced by part number 537 25 13-02.

L side has to do with throttle response, like when given throttle and it bogs like you are having. H side is rpm at full throttle.

Open L side IMO small increments till you get the transition.

I adjusted mine from the get go to my mix. Spline carb tool. Husqvarna 125B blower I love it, just hate the cheap fuel lines they used. Replaced them 1 season later. Look like clear vinyl crap IMO.

If your cylinder is good to go put a OE piston back in and get cutting. Figure out why you fried the other one or does it just need new rings? I did a 372 that was 120psi. Put new set of caber rings in and it was 140psi first heat cycle ( less then a min or 2 idle and blips). Dont know what it is up to now after broken in, sold saw.

Zama made in China owned by stihl too.

Here is a dolmar dealer on Chainsaw Repair site that is top notch. Performance Outdoor Equipment My 6401 with woods ported 7901 topend with finger ports.

Makita and Dolmar are the same here in US. Only color difference.

Another of my favorite 70.7cc saws with quad port #2 . Abroad were called Partner 710, here they go by Poulan 445. Not talking favorite in handling, but in the cut. 372 440 handle way better . To bad the big end rod bearing is toasted.

You want the quickest cutting 3/8. If you want smoother cutting .325. IMO 357 is a 3/8 saw all day. I wouldnt even consider .325 on one.

There is things I liked better about the 361 over the 357 and there was things about the 357 I liked over the 361. You'll just have to run and decide. IMO the 361 needs a simple muffler mod and carb retune to wake up.

Also while you have it tore into checking. Make sure you have updated metal intake clamp. Modified old partition or new updated one to use metal intake clamp. Remove the auto decomp feature if your saw has it. Problematic buggers. 199 carbs known to give problems too. When they run good their sweet, but when they go wonky they are grrr.

PM me a email and save your $$ buying. Then save to your HD and print out also. Then you guys can email to each other here. I have a 200T pdf version.