aswales
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Everything posted by aswales
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Hi, does anyone have any alpine magnum parts ? looking for some body parts and cutters... Thanks
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Is this work to be done before the end of 2015 or early 2016 ? What is your spec on the cladding ? Frank Gamwell is literally on your doorstep, Timberking and blades etc... Fraser Robbs at Drymen have supplied Hud-son sawmills into the area... Have you thought of buying a woodland mills unit or timbery M100...doing it yourselves... Can always sell the mill on afterwards.. Always get a bit of consultancy from someone else to get you up and running...
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A Timber framers workshop by Chappell is a good how to type book. Also you can download a pdf which is a scan of a old book called Light and Heavy timber framing made easy by Fred T Hodgson
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Its a difficult one to judge and get right - if leaves are just emerging on the tree, lot of activity going on with the biology of the tree, take up of water by the roots, flow of fresh spring sap, etc.... Experience the key, try doing it and learn what can work for you. If you can - try milling a section straight away, try another as per Alec's suggestion, leave a piece in the round on bearers off the ground for 6 months then mill. Tree Species handle in different ways - I had a bad experience with some fresh summer felled eucalyptus - milled straight away, sap poured out and the resulting boards were like Swiss cheese - ended up on the fire...
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I'd be more concerned about when the timber was felled - timber felled from spring-summer which is full of fresh sap more of an issue....if you're going to do anything decent with it...
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I'm trying to get to grips with Dassault systems draftsight, the good thing about it is the cost....there's a free version...
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Nice looking machine, who makes it and what does it cost ?
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If you look up abc awards some further info on this as they are the body that deals with the level 2 certificate. I've also been in touch with Iain at arbschool about them running this course in the future. Needs to be enough interest...
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A mill set up for beginners - suggestions pls.
aswales replied to campanula's topic in Milling Forum
Might be worth looking at the logosol stuff. I manage OK for my occasional use with a logosol big mill and woodworkers mill with a huskvarna 372 powerhead which I fit with either 15, 20 or 24 inch bar - gets slower with bigger bars....Also unlike the alaskan set up you don't lose many bar inches, but you do need stiff bars... as the nose end is un-supported -
Depends how much you have to do, how long you want to spend doing it, arm ache, end product and budget. Besides solutions already mentioned - can buy large electric hand planers, not cheap. Makita do a 6 and 12 inch models (around £500 and £1400), mafell do a range 8,10,12 inch (several thousand quid...). These type of units are built like tanks..Picked up a second hand makita 6 inch for less that £150
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Go and see someone asap, a good osteopath, chiropractor can help and can often see you much sooner - though you will have to pay. Will manipulate and give you exercises etc... GP referrals to a physio can take quite a few weeks, GP will probably tell you to rest it....come back in...before passing you on to physio, that doesn't keep you working or necessarily improve the situation.
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Hud-son do have a UK distributer which import CE marked versions of certain mills for EU market - find them at Just Saws, hydraulic not listed over here...might be worth talking to their agent.. Couple of others that spring to mind SERRA (German) - see marshall logging website and pezzolato (Italien) and forestor - both on Saws UK Ltd Bandsaw Blades and Bandsaw Machines suppliers, UK. Perhaps its about time we made a British one (apart from the engine...), been looking into this for a while - got 2 main hurdles to get head round - bandwheels and the issue of CE marking....
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Have you seen the autotrek mill (fuelwoods website) looks very good and heavy duty, also logosol are now doing the HD36 available with electrically powered hydraulics...be interested to see that in operation.
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Besides what has already been mentioned, are you seeing a lot of blueing/overheating of the cutters and the guide bar ? Things get very hot ? What chain oil do you use, logosols own is a lot better for milling than some of the others
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Just because kit is made to order, this does not exempt it from CE marking as I understand things. If it comes under a category referenced in the European machinery directive, then the issue of CE marking will have to be looked at in more detail. I know that the hud-son oscar sawmills supplied in the UK are different and are CE marked, the ones that are supplied outside of Europe are different. Safety requirements are different, reference the hud-son website.
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Whatever you choose, don't forget the business of machinery and CE marking, have to be carefull....there is a lot out there that can be imported but....
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There are some nice examples of bridges in oak in Trada publications Green Oak in Construction. Might find some helpfull info via Trada
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There are one or two good books that might help, see if you can get them in at your local library - The conversion & Seasoning of Wood - William H Brown ISBN 0-85442-037-1 (best book I've come across...) Fine Woodworking on Wood and How to Dry It, this is a collection of articles. Might be able to pull off individual articles from their website, subscription necessary for some access levels. Harvesting Urban Timber A Complete Guide - Sam Sherrill
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What make and model sawmill ?
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Been following this thread, grain and colour fits cocobolo - range of colours, density sounds about right - should sink in water. Timber should be naturally oily, is it ?, more difficult to glue ? Fancy making some musical instruments ?
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If you are after something low priced then try a Wetekom Moisture Measuring Device it costs £11.99 from westfalia.net. It did OK in a living woods magazine review a while ago. http://l.westfalia.eu/medien/scaled_pix/600/600/000/000/000/000/001/347/39.jpg
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Hi Chris, Oak has been used as a structural beam for a long long time.....don't worry about shrinkage etc there are ways of dealing with it...but it needs some thought...it also has to be the right bit of wood in terms of where it comes out of the log, grain flow, knots etc... Looking at your picture are your concrete lintels supporting the outer wall of the house or the concrete roof on the outbuilding ? I would carefully take some of those door opening header bricks out and see what room you have to play with before making any decisions on material. Have you enough room at the sides of the opening to properly support a lintel, just overlapping 4 inches or so onto a brick may not be enough....and may not satisfy any structural engineering requirements if their is a significant external load on the lintel. Got any builder mates used to doing this kind of stuff, who can give advice ?
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One other thing I would say, is there room in the market place for yet another small bandmill in the UK ? I would imagine that the currently players in the market don't sell that many units a year.....!!! Woodmizer, Logosol with their recent relationship with norwood offering lumbermate and lumberlites and their marketing, have a lot of it covered.
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I'd go and look at and try a few mills before spending cash. It all depends on the type of work you intend to do as to whether or not the mill will meet your needs.
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There are several firms allready selling small bandmills in the UK Woodmizer do the LT 10 and LT15, Logosol for the norwood lumbermate etc, artcom tradebridge do the ones previously sold under the Jonsered badge, just saws are selling the hudson oscar etc units, saws uk for forestor, timberking from Frank Gamwell, mlarge have a locally produced mill. There are several for around £5000 Must be CE marked as old hand says, cannot be sold on without and employees not covered by insurance and you will be dealt with by HSE if their is no CE marking and an incident/accident.....
