spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Probably more to do with the manufacturers having to maintain certain levels of noise and emissions although some major running issues have been caused by engine or muffler design.
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Just depends on the sort of work you are doing. Most customers like ported saws as it gives them a far better chance of making a clean safe cut and forestry customers like the higher productivity as per Matts comments plus the benefits of using a lighter saw to do heavier work. I have done hundreds of 150s as the owners can leave the 201/200s in the truck and let the tiddler saw do the work. It just depends on what you need, some pick up a tool and think how fast can this tool go, others think I hope it will last, seems OK, hope it lasts!
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I think it was the way you clattered the crank when all the case retaining screws weren't out and only a day before I finished making my now well used crank splitter! Dont think Brownies were much use either!!!! Lucky I had a spare crank...happy days!
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But to be fair, I wouldn't class your use as being "careful" or your kit as being "well looked after"!!! Your hedge trimmer would concur - I don't think being lobbed out of the top of the hedge when it was playing up did it any favours? No offence....we still reminisce down here and the vast majority of it is good?
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And.....yes, if you want a second opinion!
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I think a lot of people would be shocked if they learnt the true running time of their saws. The AT readout does list the running hours total as well as the time at different rev ranges. It sounds like he has estimated the time and it hasn't come from an AT download so it is probably a bit suspect. 500 sounds more realistic than 2000 with my experience of 560/550s.
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Not sure this rare earth magnet mine looks very "environmental".
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Available from Q1 2019 as far as I can see so under 2 years use, just seems excessive to me on what I have seen unless it was pre production test machine as it was launched in August 2017 and then delayed. I guess if he is processing timber or in forestry on a pre launch saw....must be a reason!
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Are you sure about that? Assuming he runs the saw for 4hrs a day (which is very unlikely) and works a 5 day week, he would be up to nearly two years use and it has only been out for around that time. The most I have seen on many 560/550s has been circa 275-350 Hrs and some of those have been down on their uppers! I would like to see the AT readout as I don't see it stacking up!
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Seems topical at the moment........
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The 1/4 inch is much smoother with no grab. Used a 2511 recently on 3/8, first time for quite a while and it was very grabby with lots of vibration!
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But Castrol R smells glorious though. Should bottle it and sell it to manly men!!!
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You are probably getting diesel on the spark plug. Take the plug out, turn the saw upside down, pull it over hard a few times to clear any flooding. Prime the carb, assuming it is the NE silverside version. Heat the plug up hot with a plumbers lamp, fit it, hold the saws throttle open and pull the saw over fast with no decomp, it should fire after a few pulls. Obviously this is a bit dangerous but it is often the only way of sparking up a machine that has had this happen. Expect clouds of kerosene flavoured white smoke once it gets going! Hold the rear handle very firmly whilst doing this!!
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Solid in construction, a bridge between the MS460 and the AT MS 462, a good solid choice and will last!
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As Wyk days, you can tell pretty much what the compression and piston/ cylinder are like by slowly pulling the engine over. Some saws have a slightly larger or smaller recoil pulley that can mislead you but generally you can tell. I find with my tester that s brisk first pull will give a reading of 1/2 your final reading after 5-6 pulls. I stuck a presta valve in my Gunson gauge as it kept destroying Schrader valves on modified saws.
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You can fit a larger self tapper. I think the one from the very top of the recoil cover from a BG85 is shorter and fatter and fits nicely. It is the one nearest the middle of the top handle.
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Silver birch, loads of stupid seeds at this time of year, getting in to all parts of your car and house and the firewood from them goes mushy very quickly!
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AM annular buffers or AV mounts as the rest of the world call them, are crap and they fail very quickly, use the OEM parts. New OEM top end should be circa 180psi + as a deleted gasket one will pull 200-220psi. Glad it is sorted, I had assumed you knew how to tune a carb with the rest of the work done but there you go....a lesson learnt and hopefully a reliable saw now!
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Did you connect the impulse line up correctly? Sounds like lack of fuel, you could try opening the H&L screws up a bit more and see if anything changes. Did you give it a new fuel line and filter? Is the fuel tank breather OK? If you have changed all the parts that need changing, it should run fine. Did you lightly hone the bore when fitting the new piston? Did you reset the coil to flywheel gap?
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Build up of oil from the fuel mix around the rings and bore...got to be and bet now it has run up and burnt the oil off, it is easier to pull over! Glad you got there in the end though!
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Well that's all OK then isn't it, justifies the comments fully, doesn't it?
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Just man up and give it a damn good tug and when you have finished, try to start the saw?
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Yup, you are correct, either the moderators have kicked in which is unlikely or Andy has deleted his comments that I commented on and found to be pretty offensive even by my very broad standards!
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So you are saying a member on here is a hat wearing twat and has urges towards young kids now???? Really, haven't heard stuff like that since primary school!!
