spudulike

Silence is golden😉

It should be fairly obvious if the throttle is being held open - just gain access to the carb where the throttle cable connects and try to push the throttle closed and see if the revs come down. I am guessing the idle has been turned down? If the throttle is closed, the idle has been turned down and the saw still revs high, it most likely has an air leak. Bear in mind you have given us little history of the saw, its servicing, issues etc.

Watts=Volts x Amps but electric motors do use much more current getting them spinning up from start up so switches and fuses have to be rated at higher than the nominal power draw of the motor when running. I doubt that this beast of a chainsaw will draw more than a domestic pressure washer etc.

If it was pushing out that much particulate, it would be all over your room on shelves, TV, furniture etc The door on a stove will smoke if you open it sharply, the solution, as others have said is to open the door slowly and if that worried, open the damper before opening the door. Probably the latest results from the think tanks! They will probably be taxing them next.

How many degrees did you advance it?

If the decomp valve comes through the top cover rather than being on the SIDE of the cylinder, it is most likely OK and original as I have only ever seen the earlier model copied.

Mmm, hope it isn't one of those dodgy Chinese copies!!

And if they are air powered, you get your workshop to sound like a F1 pit-stop!

It makes a lot of sense, low weight, decent power, rated by many. My go to is the 346XP but they are hard to find and heavier although light compared to a 266!

That's a large chopper!!

Just file down the actual burr, it will be OK, seen it before, not a big issue!

Is the saw the newer Xtorq or earlier 372? The decomp sticks out of the top cover on the later model! If the saws were new, I am assuming either something in their manufacture was bad or the saws have developed a fault in your use. I always pull over a saw slowly in this instance to test the compression. Any good tech will do this and it is almost instinctive although not always 100% accurate. In your case, it may be worth popping off the muffler to check out the state of the piston. If this is clear of any seize or "nip up" marks then the issue is probably fuel related. One note - were you using the decomp valve? These saws were fitted with the incorrect decomp valve IMO as using it often means the saw doesn't start well. Don't use it if the saw isn't starting well. It may be that your saw just needs a bit of a retune but any saw that dies and bogs like yours - I would check compression.....then the colour of the plug - (pic please) and then go further in to the fuel system as it looks like it hasn't died completely so the ignition is probably OK.

What sort of condition is it? a bit ratty, clean and shiny near new looking....etc When you pull the starter very slowly, when the piston is coming up to full compression, does the engine feel really spongy at the top end like there is a lot of resistance or is it relatively east to pull over? Take a pic of the piston through the exhaust port if you get that far, it will give us an indication of the saws condition. The plug colour sounds OK but will indicate flat out running and won't indicate how the saw works at idle. Hopefully it is indicating the engine is OK. Are you using the correct starting procedure, when cold - full choke, pull it over until the engine fires - typically 2-5 pulls, push the choke lever down SLIGHTLY to the FAST IDLE setting, pull it over until the saw fires - typically 1-3 pulls and pull the throttle open to get it back to idle.

The short version of the above is that poor starting is generally down to lack of fuel or compression.

What age is your machine and has it run as it should since you have owned it? Most issues on starting are fuel system related, followed by compression then ignition. It would be good to pop off the muffler and check the look of the piston through the exhaust port. It should be grey and smooth with no vertical scoring/scrapes.....called seized. Pull the plug out and look at the colour...tan is good, black is rich, grey means the engine has probably seized, white means it is going to seize. You could turn the L screw out 1/4 - 1/2 turn and adjust the idle - saws from the factory are often set lean to meet EPA laws making them hard to start and having poor idle. You may just have a low idle setting. It should be set to idle evenly without stalling and without pinging the clutch or pulsing the chain forward. Try turning the H screw out by 1/4 turn, it may help. If this is fine, your issues are probably carb related. I rarely replace carbs, I rebuild them as it is much cheaper than for my customers. Things to check - The pump diaphragm flaps - make sure the holes in the alloy carb body haven't perforated them. Check the gauze strainer isn't full of fine chip. Change the fuel filter if the saw has had some use. That should do it for now..........and report back with what you find.

My mate Martin uses the F word...a lot at sights like that! sometimes he utters the C word when commenting on their prowess at tree reduction. I know nothing but the reductions he comments on look like bog brushes to me!

Which part was it?

That lip on the control shaft is the more common one but the throttle trigger can brake its end off giving the same issue. TBH, I didn't read your post as the pics caught my attention😉 Thought you were just posting chainsaw porn!!

No idea, just seen it on Felcos until I saw this listing.

OK, lets end the love in...the issue will either be the throttle trigger or the control shaft - that is the white plastic bit that all the kill wire contact springs run on or the bit you stick your finger on to make the saw go loud. It is always one or the other. In the picture - (pinched of Paddy) shows the fast idle mechanism latched. The two arrowed parts are the bits that need to latch and one of them will be damaged...fact.....I thank you😉

Damn...ADW will never let us forget this.....ever😭 Glad it is sorted....lets hope it stays that way....for a long time!

The plug colour is one part, the actual revs being made is the other. Your saw may take another 1000rpm but you won't know that if you haven't set it. Carbon forms on saws running rich, too much oil in the fuel or both! Mmmm on the £30 cylinder...your choice but the standard one will probably make more power!

Not sure why you didn't just helicoil the cylinder on the machine - would have been easier. Just use a quality oil and make sure the saws carb is tuned correctly, that will cut down on carbon building up.

Not a good time to get any parts. Supply chains are in a bit of a state. If the saw is going to go out and earn your living, go OEM!

Mmm, I noticed that. The black solenoid 0000 120 5110 fits the 201 and the 261 along with many other machines so the grey one will fit the same machines and think I have fitted one to a 201TC in the past.