spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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These carb sort of problems are hard to diagnose without having the saw in front of you. A common problem is crud in the gauze filter in the pumoing section of the carb directly under the single screw cover on the carb. Fuel lines can go very soft and cause issues. Check the breather is clear - just spent longer than I should on a Jonsered with a plugged breather:thumbdown: A quick check on this is to release the fuel cap and try running the saw with it canted over - otherwise all the fuel will run out:001_rolleyes: Other than that, an air leak can cause a racing idle and bogging in the mid range. You aren't a million miles from me, can't do anything until Sunday if you are stuck.
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Use a typical business card to set the coil to flywheel gap - usually works for me:thumbup:
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What chainsaw - 346XP of course, if you climb - MS200T and if you fell, MS660 or 395XP....you couold squeeze a 357XP, 372XP or MS440 in there if you liked:thumbup: Gotta say that I reach for the 346 whenever there is wood for the taking on offer:thumbup1:
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The fast running can be an air leak but the carb set to 1/2 turn isn't right and will cause the idle to run fast, it may also be the throttle sticking open slightly due to a sticky mechanism or butterfly valve. A can of carb cleaner costs £1.50 and does a good job of cleaning carbs, I do use an ultrasonic cleaner on persistant offenders and the only carb that has given me terminal problems had a worn L screw seat and I had to admit defeat on that one! Worn pumping gaskets and diaphragms can cause issues - one thing worth checking is the state of the fuel filter and fuel pipe - both can cause these types of problem! Good luck
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Firstly the racing idle will be down to the L screw being in too far, take it out one turn from fully in and do the same with the H screw, I have tuned one of these saws recently and adjusting the L screw effects the H setting so you need to find the correct balance. The saw will need to have the idle reset with the H&L screws set like this and once this is done the saw should have some sort of pick up if revved with the right setting coming from ensuring an even idle, followed by a clean midrange then the H screw adjusted for decent high revs and possibly a re-tweak of the L screw. These saws are not the easiest to adjust! If one turn on both screws or thereabouts doesn't sort it, there are a number of things that could be wrong - crap in the gauze filter in the pumping section is one of them and worth checking out. I found the needle valve on mine was leaking due to the plating on it breaking down - details on the "Whats on my bench" thread.
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Mike - you learn fast, classic signs of a loose or broken flywheel key, it could be that the coil to flywheel gap is too great (Unlikely to cause this) or the coil is breaking down but the flywheel key is most likely - first saw that did this on me scared me sh?Xless!
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Hi Mike - got no experience of this one, I know the 335/338 have similar settings. Have you tried the settings? the H setting won't have much of an effect on starting as the L screw controls most of this area. Have you tried starting it with the throttle wide open - it could be the fast idle is coming off when the choke is opened! It sounds like the saw is popping and if it isn't going after that, you are not getting enough fuel through for ignition and that can be down to the fast idle mechanism or lack of fuel.
You won't do any harm by undoing the H screw 3 turns but if it should be 1 turn, it will smoke and flub at high revs.
Good luck
Steve
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Model Profile: 920 Good machine - old and heavy but pretty strong saw.
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Good lad - there are many that wouldn't have shown your diligence - sorry if I offended, didn't mean to! If you need the cylinder cleaned - PM me, I have a high rate of success:thumbup:
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Pretty much the same as Barrie, I have a set procedure on setting up the L screw and that is winding it in until the saw races and then backing it out until you hear the saw have a slight pop in its exhaust note and falls back to a reasonable idle, I then adjust the LA and see how it revs from idle to flat out and how the saw responds to blipping the throttle. You can find smaller saws are very fussy on the L screw where larger ones are not, small saws can bog a bit if the L screw is a bit lean so trying it on a bit of good timber can help. When cold, some saws take around 30 secs to stop bogging from idle and then work fine when warm - the 345, 346, 350 Husky range are usuall candidates for this but the Stihl 026/260 are generally OK. As Barrie says - it is worth checking the high and low speeds if the L screw is adjusted, on some carbs, adjusting the L screw can effect the H setting - I have had this on a MS260.
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Sounds like that the problems that they talk about will be caused by leaving fuel in the machine that will degrade over a period of time - I have seen damage caused to fuel lines and have cleaned out many carbs that have had problems with gunk in them. I am guessing the pro user regularly using his machines will have less problems than the home user leaving the saw in his shed until the next season. The answer will be to run the carb and tank clear of fuel if left standing or using a fuel like Aspen.
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I used to grab my muffler modded 345 whenever there is wood in the offering but that hasn't been out in a while now - it is a great saw and just keeps going and sounds fab - not sure the village I live in agrees:thumbup:
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Got a vid done at long last, bare in mind that the lump of wood I am cutting is two year seasoned oak and the second cut was full bar length on a bit of wood that just wouldn't stay still , I think it shows what the saw can do in hard wood.
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If the fuel is getting on to the airfilter it may be blow back of fuel - the carbs when cracked open blast fuel in to the choke of the carb and that can sometimes find itself being blown backwards out of the carb - that is the most likely suggestion. There is a fuel tank breather and that plugs in to the side of the filter mount - may be worth checking that as well but I would clean it and see if you can work out where it is coming from.
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Personally I use normal unleaded but am not cutting every day, typically every few weekends in the winter. It is very difficult to say if any of the carb problems I have seen have in anyway been caused by the cheaper fuel or not. I have seen many problems been caused by hard use on old fuel mix and fuel line failure through fuel being left in the tank but that is about it. Did they say what sort of problems the carbs are having?
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Been out again with my 346XP - I don't know what it is but the saw always brings a smile to my face when I use it - mine is runnig hot and tuned but it is fine balanced, light and has very good AV. The 357 is a bigger version of the 346, really depends what sort of work you do in the main, the 357 has more go than the standard 346 but weighs more. 346 is good with a 15" bar, I guess if you are happier with an 18" then the 357 may be a better choice... No experience of the 560, I am guessing there will be the normal spat of problems like any new offering - I am not liking the thought of microprocessor controls on a saw - sounds overcomplicated and US EPA law driven to me. Time will tell!
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Good points - I do my taching 1/2 mile down the road in the middle of nowhere - get some strange looks but who cares - run the saw up to hot and then tach to around 13,000rpm - the manufactures max is 14,000 but unless you really care about that little extra chain speed or have spent time tuning the thing then the safety margin is worth having. Next thing is to open up that muffler, bring the squish down and open up those ports and tune to 14,000.................
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Agree 100%
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Reckon you need to turn your camera to daylight setting rather than indoor as the pic has a blue hue about it:thumbup:
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You are lucky - there is a bag of bits on ebay at over £100 with a day left to go at the mo:confused1:
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Sometimes doing the job for someone is the easier option - got to think about PPE and the friends abillity as well as their mechanical knowledge!
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Personally would look at a 020T rather than some low cost Chinese poop - if you are expecting anything like a MS200T from China, forget it:thumbdown: What you looking at spending? May be able to do a bitsa from my workshop - got some 020Ts and a couple of 020AVs.
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Chainsaw and scrap metal thefts in Biggleswade On 2/3 January
spudulike replied to sylvaarb's topic in General chat
No idea but these two blokes were the biggest guys I have seen - one was 6'6" and the other 6'8" and were as strong as an ox - made me look short and I am 6'2":lol: They had spent their time in South Africa but got out in the early 80s when I met them - had a good story about a cattle truck and an open top sports car but thats another story and off topic:blushing: -
Whats happened to the original poster - has the saw started yet?
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The vertical lines are signs of seizure, this generally leaves a residue of aluminium on the bore of the cylinder just above and below the exhaust port -this MUST be removed if it is present. Get us some photos of the exhaust port and the piston - if the bore is clean, it is possible the damage has been caused by carbon falling in to the cylinder from the exhaust port. Has anyone tried to lock the piston in place by inserting something like a screwdriver in to the exhaust port:001_rolleyes:
