spudulike

Thanks for the good rep:thumbup: Probably well fixed by now though!

My new company car was around a week old when it had the first load of wood ceremonially dumped in the boot and hauled back home - just had a real full load in it at Christmas, God alone knows what weight I had in it but the rear axle wasn't far off the deck:thumbup: Get some strange looks but IMO, that is what they are for, as long as you keep the speed down, avoid the bumps and pre read the road for stopping distances, all is good - probably the same loading as four big pie munchers and their holiday luggage.

Bugger that auto tune - hows a man going to port and muffler mod one of those saws:thumbdown:

Need a bit of clarification - the numpty put the fuel mix in the bar oil tank - did he put bar oil in the fuel tank and it is the burning off of the bar oil that is making the engine smoke or is the fuel making the bar smoke? As long as the fuel contains a 50:1 mix fuel/two stroke oil mix, you should be OK and the smoke will stop soon.

Depending on if you find it easy to remove the clutch and sprocket - You can take off the clutch/sprocket, whip off the pump cover and clean the oil tank pickup and filter, the pump outlet and the pump itself - WD40 or carb cleaner will do this well - also check the pinion gear thread that drives the pump, this can get damaged. If you want a simpler but maybe not as effective action, put some petrol in the oil tank, swill it round and start the saw and run until it comes through and see if that helps, not sure if you can get to the filter from the fill hole or not to clean it out. Check the oil hole in the bar is clear of woodchip/blockage and also make sure the oil outlet - where it pumps against the bar is clear of crap. The first option is my usual one for success!

254XP - first decent size saw and got me tons of oak firewood, Muffler moded 345 as it is light, easy to use and packs a decent wallop and now the 346XP 15" with full chisel RSC - cross between a Yammy TZ250 the 345 on mad steroids:thumbup:

You crease me up:lol: Least you didn't break it!!

The things you get up to on the IOM:001_rolleyes:you would have been pumping that grease gun one hell of a time to get the grease out:lol: At least you got it going in the end:thumbup:

I have had a couple of saws that have refused to start in the near past and have resolved the problem with a very slight bend of the metering arm - sometimes it is all that is needed, especially if the diaphragm is a little old or the saw has been standing for a while.

I would usually start the saw and when it is over revving at idle, would push the throttle linkage on the side of the carb home to see if it stopped the over high idle. The carb may just need a simple adjustment but the fact that it has changed usually means there is a problem. When the idle goes up in speed, it can mean you have an air leak and is giving a symptom like running out of fuel or an overly lean mix. If the saw isn't starting, I would pop off the muffler and take a look at the piston - it should be a nice grey colour with no vertical scoring. If it has vertical scores you have a repair ahead. If the piston is OK, then check the plug is wet, if it is very wet, turn the saw upside down and pull it over to clear any puddled fuel in the crankcase, heat the plug to clear unburnt fuel and try starting it on fast idle but no choke. If the plug is dry, you have a carb problem. It is worth checking the spark - take out the plug and push it in to the cap, earth it on the head away from the plug hole (you can ignite unburnt fuel - quite spectacular) and pull the saw over with the ignition on, you should get a nice fat spark. let us know what you find!

Nice job - top hole:thumbup:

On the technical side you have a few points, using the decomp will not only take the strain off your elbows but also on the starter pulley causing less wear! On a negative side, the saw will make less compression using the decomp so it won't start quite as well, especially if the saw is a bit low on comp or a difficult starter. Personally - I make sure saws start using the decomp but rarely use them on the 50cc and less saws but use them on the big buggers that break your arm when starting. Almost killed myself once on a MS880 trying to get a compression reading - gave up at 130psi:lol:

Two words of advice: - 1) Fill it with grease first 2) Don't mess with it after necking a decent amount of vino:lol: Seriously, I have never had issues with mine although I don't know if mine is the same as yours. I just pop off the end cap, pull out the internal cap, fill the thing with grease and waggle a screwdriver in it to get rid of air and then reassemble. Pumping the thing then gets the grease flowing. Some don't advocate lubricating the end sprocket, some do. I think most open bearings will need some sort of lubrication - if the oiler is set on max with a 15" bar it is unlikely you will need to lube it much. On a longer bar you may need greasing once in a while - just depends on how much oil makes it to the nose sprocket. Good luck

The 346 is a little screamer, a real racer, the MS260 is more sedate IMO The 346 wins it on AV IMO The MS260 is probably a little more solid in build quality The 346 has higher chainspeed and tops out at higher revs The MS260 has a little more low down tourque The 346 sounds far better:thumbup: The 346 air filter stays much cleaner and the filtration system is better IMO It really depends on what you like and if you like the Stihl product or Husqvarna, a decent 346XP on ebay will cost anything from £250 - £350 the carb boot is their achillese heel on these saws but if this is OK, you will love it:thumbup: Some may have other opinions but I say as I have found!

No Worries - I would steer clear of adjusting the H screw (closest to the air filter) as if you lean the saw out too far, it may seize. The settings that the saw ran on before the problem should allow the saw to run when the fault is found. The idle can be adjusted with no problem but again - once the problem is found, the saw should run fine on the original settings.

Just to clarify, I think we are talking about the 020AV - the predecessor to the 020T and followed by the MS200T. My parts list state a WT15A Walbro on this saw! I generally try to fix carbs - new ones can be pricey and may not be needed!

These carb sort of problems are hard to diagnose without having the saw in front of you. A common problem is crud in the gauze filter in the pumoing section of the carb directly under the single screw cover on the carb. Fuel lines can go very soft and cause issues. Check the breather is clear - just spent longer than I should on a Jonsered with a plugged breather:thumbdown: A quick check on this is to release the fuel cap and try running the saw with it canted over - otherwise all the fuel will run out:001_rolleyes: Other than that, an air leak can cause a racing idle and bogging in the mid range. You aren't a million miles from me, can't do anything until Sunday if you are stuck.

Use a typical business card to set the coil to flywheel gap - usually works for me:thumbup:

What chainsaw - 346XP of course, if you climb - MS200T and if you fell, MS660 or 395XP....you couold squeeze a 357XP, 372XP or MS440 in there if you liked:thumbup: Gotta say that I reach for the 346 whenever there is wood for the taking on offer:thumbup1:

The fast running can be an air leak but the carb set to 1/2 turn isn't right and will cause the idle to run fast, it may also be the throttle sticking open slightly due to a sticky mechanism or butterfly valve. A can of carb cleaner costs £1.50 and does a good job of cleaning carbs, I do use an ultrasonic cleaner on persistant offenders and the only carb that has given me terminal problems had a worn L screw seat and I had to admit defeat on that one! Worn pumping gaskets and diaphragms can cause issues - one thing worth checking is the state of the fuel filter and fuel pipe - both can cause these types of problem! Good luck

Firstly the racing idle will be down to the L screw being in too far, take it out one turn from fully in and do the same with the H screw, I have tuned one of these saws recently and adjusting the L screw effects the H setting so you need to find the correct balance. The saw will need to have the idle reset with the H&L screws set like this and once this is done the saw should have some sort of pick up if revved with the right setting coming from ensuring an even idle, followed by a clean midrange then the H screw adjusted for decent high revs and possibly a re-tweak of the L screw. These saws are not the easiest to adjust! If one turn on both screws or thereabouts doesn't sort it, there are a number of things that could be wrong - crap in the gauze filter in the pumping section is one of them and worth checking out. I found the needle valve on mine was leaking due to the plating on it breaking down - details on the "Whats on my bench" thread.

Mike - you learn fast, classic signs of a loose or broken flywheel key, it could be that the coil to flywheel gap is too great (Unlikely to cause this) or the coil is breaking down but the flywheel key is most likely - first saw that did this on me scared me sh?Xless!

Model Profile: 920 Good machine - old and heavy but pretty strong saw.

Good lad - there are many that wouldn't have shown your diligence - sorry if I offended, didn't mean to! If you need the cylinder cleaned - PM me, I have a high rate of success:thumbup: