spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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The on off button now raises the solar panels and the choke button energises the optical laser amplifier, pull the trigger and ......toast:thumbup:
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Bugger, I knew something was missing:lol: Actually I find chains so old school, this saw is based on the Man with the Golden Guns mushroom island, it takes sunlight and uses a high speed laser to cut wood - simple if you know how:thumbup:
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I know that many OEM manufacturers won't manufacture items such as bolts, bearings, seals etc and just stick their own part number on a third party manufactured part but have never seen Mahle cylinders or pistons available - only Meteor, Episan or Chinese. Have you any links?
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Mahle non OEM parts - you sure they are:confused1: I would think Husqvarna would stop any third party manufacturer & Husqvarna supplier copying OEM parts! Where are you getting the kit from?
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Spent some of the weekend working on a 357XP, it is now ported, the muffler mod is close to completion, the transfers have been opened up to match the crankcase along with a fix to remove the automatic decomp valve - note the lower valve connection is now plugged and a new decomp fitted. The saw has had a new Meteor piston fitted and all seems good.
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No worries Martin, always a pleasure - picks of the seal removal below, we then did a pressuure and vac tested which it passed fine : -
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I have the smaller puller for the small to mid range Stihls, it covers most of the usual suspects that I work on:thumbup:
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Just taking the piss Martin, cos I knew you could:biggrin: Got to get that 076 sorted for Chainsawfest next weekend:thumbup:
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Well thats not nice - one horrible crack in the casing:thumbdown:
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Not very common, it can happen when people use air chucks to take off the clutch but don't know it is left hand thread:thumbdown: but obviously not in this case!
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This may help - http://www.hsqintec.sk/vykres/h372xp-07.pdf The early 365s are different from the latter 365 special, you can convert the 365 to 372 as both share components but hopefully you will be able to match the cylinder on this IPL to the new parts you will require.
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Martin - you removed the flywheel yet - you got the right puller? You know you can't make them lol:lol:
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That one has gone - got a clean 024 but untested at the mo!
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If the saw has started then hopefully it is OK but I did have one that had a weak spark that was pretty intermittent. A simple check is to open up the electrode gap to 1 - 1.5mm and pull the saw over with the plug earthed on the cylinder head and see if it sparks. Make sure it is held away from th eplug hole as the fuel vapour can ignite!!
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Previous owner was a Gorilla with small wood - Oh er misses:lol:
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Making a filter out of foam is OK as long as it is cleaned or replaced regularly, this saw isn't a particularly high performance model. The faster machines have a zig zag arangement of filters that significantly increases the amount of air a filter can let through but your bodge should work and provide enough filtration.
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Try this - http://charlotte.preferredpower.com/dolmar/Documents/Chain%20Saws%20with%20Petrol%20Engines/100,%20100s,%20102,%20PS-33/995700065(1986-04).PDF The saw has a slide in pre filter and a typical plastic case air filter. Typical main problem with these saws is the coil failing.
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Yeah - 600 replies and 27,000 views - just a few more to hit 30K:thumbup:
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Nice Vid martin, the blue cap is the seal and the screw on bush is the oil pump worm drive, it looks to have a built in oil seal. If you have an air leak, use the fairy liquid to see where it bubbles but would suspect it will be the big blue seal that has gone. You can just see the inner ring of the ball race on the crank bearing and the oil pump shaft.
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Thanks for your interest Ben, I have PMed you with the details.
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No worries, when you are ready - just PM me with details.
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That is one very good tip that probably many overlook:thumbup:
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Push the spring in to the recoil cover where there is the molded channel to receive it and then keep working the spring back in to the spring cavity until it has gone back completely. This is the only way I know. I also wear safety specs just in case. The recoil pulley should just push in to place with a bit of rotating.
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Looks in good nick, that clutch is a wierd affair, you could ask AGG221 (Alec) for advice, he has one himself and is a bit of a techie! Looks like that nut will need to come off to get to that seal:thumbdown:
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They be limited - it usually says on the coil to what RPMs - probably 14,100 - it makes taching the saw more difficult:thumbdown:
