spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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As far as the corrosion goes, it will be oxidising so you need to stop air getting to the metal through paint or epoxy etc after a thorough clean The smaller cc saw had a 44mm bore, the larger, a 46mm bore. If the saw is stripped down then just use a vernier or rule on the piston. If it is a complete saw, remove the muffler, insert one of those little pipes you get on cans of WD 40 in to the exhaust port and push it lightly against the other side of the bore. move the piston up so it shears off the pipe, drop the piston, remove the piece of pipe and measure it:thumbup:
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Stihl HP:thumbup: The low grade ones may cause deposits that will clog your exhaust port - seen it before on slower revving saws.
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The impulse line takes the positive and negative pressure formed in the crank case and transfers this pressure/vacuum to the fuel pump within the carb by means of either an internal hole in the carb boot or a rubber tube. On the 020, it is a rubber tube running from the top of the crank case in to the handle, just in front of the breather and underneath the airbox!
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Difficult this one, find out the saw part number and post it, hopefully a Jonsered or Husky part may be compatible as they were all part of Electrolux at one stage.
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Garden kit gets the prize, the 020 carb doesn't have the troublesome accelerator pump, the problem of the saw dying on throttle may just be mixture adjustment, try turning the "L" screw all the way in to the carb and out one turn and see if that makes a difference. Also a carb kit is around £10 - 12 as Barrie quite rightly states:thumbup: You may have crap in the gauze filter in the pumping section of the carb, a carb kit isn't required for this. I have seen old 020 carbs puncture the pumping membrane sealing flaps - check the posts in "Whats on my bench" for images. You may have an air leak - holed carb boot or impulse line - these can cause the symptoms you have. You can also find images on "whats on my bench":thumbup: I usually give the carb a bit of TLC and then if that fails, a pressure and Vac test and go from there.
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It's Mattys call on this as it is his site, Martin had the great idea, all I am doing is providing some of my ported kit but should be a good crack.
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Self fixing saws - Damn those German engineers are clever:lol:
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Reckon you stuffed the stop through the exhaust port if it was the plastic dog bone Stihl one! You are supposed to jam it between the piston and the top of the cylinder:001_rolleyes: Rope down the plug hole and a quick blow with a hard mallet on a screw driver using the cutouts in the clutch usually does it. You should have run it round:001_rolleyes:
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I think most MS200Ts and also most saws will leave a little oil from around the clutch cover area after use, this is pretty normal. I would leave the saw overnight and then wipe off the oil and then leave it on a piece of paper and see if it is still leaking over a day or two. If the saw is leaking oil, the most common part to have failed is part 1129 647 5701 - it is a rubber connector that can split over time. This allows oil to seep from where the oil pump connects to the oil outlet hose but it shouldn't be a large amount of oil. If this is OK then take the clutch cover, the clutch and side covers off, clean the saw side, fill the oil tank full of petrol or white spirit and then see where it leaks. Generally leaks like this are normal - if you are running a 12" bar, it may be worth turning the oil output down. By the way - MS200Ts are damn good saws and well put together, they have their little ways but most are fixable - if you know how:thumbup:
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Think Matty has found a new way of removing the clutch on his 346XP - directly through the side of the clutch cover:lol: Hope the cover fitted OK:thumbup1: Don't forget the ear defenders on Sunday - Burrells ported 357XP should be ready for our Sawfest:thumbup:
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With faults like this, I always pressure, compression and vac check the engine to make sure I am starting with an engine that is OK, too often a leaking decomp or split impulse line/carb boot can be the problem area. If this is OK, I put the carb in the ultrasonic cleaner and then reset it and tach the saw. This sorts out the vast majority of problems.
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I use rope in the plug hole or a Stihl piston stop NOT THE SCREW IN ONE!! and then use a screw driver and mallet - it has always worked for me. Special tools can be knocked up out of sockets or steel pipe.
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You be bad men:lol:
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Probably worth turning up your oiler output and give the bar sprocket a soaking in WD40 and rotate it by rolling it along a piece of wood, once it rotates freely, the extra oil should keep it working.
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If you pop out the two allen bolts that hold the stainless plate on, you will be able to inspect the chain adjuster and also take a look at the fit between the oil pump and the rear oil pipe feed and the top oil pump outlet pipe. You could try a little more padding on top of this assembly - tightening the bar down will help clamp it tightly in place. It is a simple mechanism - the only problem with leaking was with MattyFs 257 and that was the wear on the casing. My original pic is below, note the JB weld on the lower casing and the little green pad I had fitted before finding the true fault!
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I have seen the chain adjuster wear a hole in the side of the oil tank before - I thoroughly cleaned the area and repaired with JB weld. Other than that, it may be the compression fit of the oil pipe between the crank case and the stainless cover - is the small foam pad still on the top of the pipe union?
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It is also a symptom of poor fuel tank breathing, had a 346XP with a plugged breather that had exactly the same problem - has anyone tried running the saw with the fuel cap loose? The throttle linkage as Barrie suggests can be looked at - I usually run up a saw and push the throttle linkage with my fingers to close the throttle and see what the effects are - you usually need the top cover off to do this.
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My own personal route is to try to salvage the cylinder, I would even use it is slightly scored rather than take my chances with aftermarket. I always try to use a quality piston and favour Meteor if available - they are very close to OEM grade. Failing this, the Chinese kits are good value but are not manufactured as well as OEM, it helps if you know what you are doing and do some simple checks during re-assembly. One word of advice is to find out why the machine failed in the first place, I have seen one or two that have died for no apparent reason but there is usually a reason and this should be found if possible - vac and pressure checks are common and useful tests. Problems I have had on Chinese kit are pistons with direction arrows pointing in the wrong direction, lack of compression, pitting in the chrome/nikasil plating, piston rings breaking, poor ring end to pin fit and poor piston to cylinder fit. Good luck
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That must be an engine out of a ship?
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Just finished the muffler mod on the 357XP, it is the shotgun outlet that looks quite nice IMO, fired up the saw and wow - loud indoors, very responsive on the throttle and 190psi compression measured but expect this to drop to 180psi once the oil in the bore has burnt off. Idle is fine - this is just on factory settings at the moment - just need to put the clutch etc on the saw - came up pretty clean in the end and looks and sounds great. Getting near the 30K views mark on this thread - must be doing something right:thumbup:
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I have found these to be good on the old Huskys with the hollow crank shaft end with the grease hole under the clutch sprocket but personally avoid greasing bar tips as it tends to accumulate dust and jams the sprocket tip in the end when buried in the cut.
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Thats a big one Martin and the bar is quite long as well:lol: Thats it - bed beckons
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Should be a right crack, no doubt there will be lots of vids and pics on "The Lads day out in the woods":thumbup:
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Next Sunday, Burrell, MattyF, Wolfman and myself are taking a trip in to the woods with my ported 346XP/357XP, my 181SE (ex army), Burrells 076 and 441, Mattys 560XP and whatever Wolfman can dig up and will do some vids of the saws cutting. We are planning running the 560 against my 357XP and the 346XP - should be interesting:thumbup: I think it is Mattys way of getting all his timber cut...very quickly:thumbup:
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Thought so - I couldn't see Husqvarna allowing a supplier to manufacture OEM parts and sell them as non OEM - just not commercially acceptable. I have seen the Nikasil ebay listing you mention, unfortunately Joe Public are not going to be able to tell the difference between Chrome and Nikasil. Further reading - Nikasil - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
