spudulike

Ah, it is that new then....check out my comments on temperature of fuel etc. Unlikely the carb has the issues I mention.

I never know if accidents where you don't die or get maimed are good or bad luck. Sure, it is bad luck the blind woman pulled out on you intent on killing you and your loved ones but good luck no one died although I would swerve the next credit card statement, delayed shock isn't good!!

Normally this type of leaking out of the back of the carb is down to the needle valve leaking which may be a faulty needle, weak spring, badly adjusted metering arm or the metering diaphragm has gone hard or baggy. A new carb kit should do it. The hot weather can bring this issue on. If you fill your tank in a cool garage with cool fuel and then leave the equipment in a hot van or in the sun, the pressure will build in the tank and show up any weakness in the parts I have mentioned. On hot days, filling up on site and leaving your fuel and unused kit in the shade will help just watch out for those types that want a strimmer but have no money and don't want to buy one!!!

I have a trusty Black and Decker corded saw. Around late 80s I reckon. Not too bad TBH and stops the old farts round here getting excited about the noise!! Has cut a fair few cube in its life, just isn't that exciting though.

The pressure or vacuum in the crankcase will be the same as above the cylinder but if you use a converted spark plug to inject pressure or vacuum to the engine, move the piston to below the upper transfers so the pressure or vacuum above the piston is transferred to the crankcase. Remember we are not talking about secondary compression which is the pressure between the piston and combustion chamber once the piston covers the exhaust port during pulling over the engine You can't guarantee carb settings at the factory standard of 1&1. You should always tach a saw or live with recognising the four stroking note when flat out. If the fuel was good then you are left with carb settings/issues or air leak. There are other weird reasons for machines to seize but are not common.

Sometimes you can tell a saw has an air leak by turning in the L screw. Normally the idle speed rises until the engine dies when the screw is nearly in. If the saw has a significant air leak, the idle speed increases as the screw is turned in and stays high even with the screw in with the idle screw not lowering the idle as it should. If you know carbs and adjusting them, this can help diagnose air leaks. A typical pressure test is a good idea. If the saw was set at 1 1/4 turns out on both screws and making around 13000rpm and stable with the throttle held open. It shouldn't have failed if the fuel/oil were good.

What was the saws revs set to? The 026 can go to 14k but as I said in a previous post, 13-13.5 krpm is about right. If the saw isn't revving over these figures AND there is enough oil in the fuel and the mix is fresh, it shouldn't seize. Typically saws seize from: - 1) Bad carb adjustment 2) Old fuel mix or straight fuel with no oil being used. 3) Air leak raising the running RPM of the engine. A Mix of the above can cause a seize and starvation of fuel through carb issues, blocked breather etc can exacerbate the issue if you can actually get the saws speed up rather than bogging down. A Saw seize is caused by excessive heat in the engine melting the piston causing the rings to stick and hold in the grooves and transfer or smear the exhaust side of the cylinder with aluminium.....what we refer to as transfer. the heat comes from bad lubrication and/or the machine running too fast. if the saw was set to the parameters I said and lubricated with a decent oil and fuel mix, this shouldn't happen

Best get it sorted rather than move in and 15 years latter have a sodding great tree stuffed between two buildings and a belligerent eco warrior next door not allowing it to be taken down and something more suitable put in its place. People can be strange and plant trees so close to houses not realizing the size they will grow to or the reach of the roots. Just have a word and supply a decent size ceanothus to replace it...job done. It may be a Himalayan birch, can't tell if the trunk has the tell tale brown stripes or not

If it was locking the drum to the clutch somehow or interfering with the oiler arm then it may stop the saw at low revs. These engines don't make much power at idle speeds and a slight impingement will stall the engine. Just a case of removing the drum and clutch, replacing the spring, clearing the broken parts, reassemble and test.

I have seen the top collar break up on these engines. The valve clearances do need regular adjustment. If the engine feels difficult to pull over, the valves need adjustment. The large valve gap knocks the auto decompressor out so you feel the full engine compression if the gap is too large and is an easy way of telling it is out. The OPs machine.....strip it down, see what parts are needed and if uneconomical, sell it on or strip for parts to sell on. It is a bit catastrophic when a valve drops but you may get away with a small repair bill if very lucky. Good learning curve and make sure you set the correct valve timing when rebuilding.

No idea what these are but they look like largish new potatoes and are unblemished.....apart from the one I stuck the fork through

Just dug the first spud plant. First time we have tried them and considering the spuds I planted were just old shooting spuds from last winter that I was going to lob, we had a good showing of 14 mid size new spuds. Will try them again next year.

Cant say growing a tree that close to two buildings is a great idea. Silver Birches drop leaves, catkins and seed pods in large volumes and that will fill gutters plus in time, the roots and expanding canopy will not do either the house or the single story building, presumably a garage, any favours. A Ceanothus, Viburnum or Choisya would be a far better option.

Ah, this link may help him......thats if he can see the thing!!! https://www.specsavers.co.uk/

But what is a chain brake - the guard, the band, the knuckle joint, the spring yada yada....I am sure we will find out in due course! Most likely is the band as they wear, second, the guard as they get damaged........

Was that "Stihl" you being droll or just a shyte speller Very good if it was the former!!

The brake band is 1118 160 5402 and isn't available from L&S. They are available from eBay - This guy is one of the better sellers but note that the aftermarket part often is missing the location dowel on the non closed bent end. You MUST fit one - even a small length of a wood nail will do. This stops the constant use of the brake literally pulling the bend straight and stop the band working. It annoys me that they are not fitted as on the OEM part so beware to fit one. BRAKE BAND FOR STIHL CHAINSAW 028 028AV WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Compatible Stihl 028 028av 028 brake band. This part is now obsolete with Stihl and difficult to find. No. 187 7257 16. made with love by.

Not sure if you will be able to see this L&S part list but most of the parts are still available. If you can't see it, give them a bell with the correct part code or register so you can open up the parts diagrams. If you list what you need, I will see if it is in stock. Oil pump, Chain brake Assembly for Stihl 028 Gasoline Chainsaws | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Oil pump, Chain brake Assembly for Stihl 028 Petrol Chainsaws. Genuine & Non-Genuine Aftermarket Spare Parts for Stihl 028 Chainsaws.

Yes, used to like listening to his afternoon show when I was on the road, pounding the miles!

Firstly I know nothing about your application BUT.... have experienced very similar on chainsaws. The issue in my instance was one of two things - uneven bar rails or splayed bar rails. If you take the bar off and lay a flat edge on the bar rails, the flat edge should be 90 degrees with the bar, If it is not, the chain will not operate square with the bar and the cutters will not cut in to the wood as they should. If the bar groves still have life in them (they are deeper than the drive links of the chain), the bar can be ground so both rails are made even....I use a bench grinder adjusted for this. If the rails are splayed - you will see the chain can be moved side to side in the bar grove and this also causes the chain to "flop" in the cut and stops cutting. The solution is either to fit a new bar and chain or you can, if skilled, knock the rails together with a hammer and a solid base - anvil or a vice. I have had a saw cut halfway through a log and then you could rev the nuts of the saw with no chip or progress in the cut, all down to the above. I am assuming the issue is less of a "Jam" and more that the chain stops cutting and throwing out chip...if not, ignore this content.

Sounds like we are a bit closer. The 026 will rev up to 14Krpm but I would typically set it to 13 - 13.5Krpm just for safety. Fit the carb kit and see how it goes. The impulse lines can be a bit of a loose fit to the carb, seem that before. See how it goes once back together and has been run for a bit. If you fit a new impulse, only fit an original Stihl one as I don't trust the cheap aftermarket ones. Let us know how it goes but it is beginning to look promising.

Better start digging a bunker in the back garden then

Not running the 660 again

His block paving looks very clean

If you rev a saw flat out without cutting, the oil covers the clutch cover and just drips out when left to stand. When you are cutting, it transfers to the chip and wood so little is left to drip from the saw. The 661 has a two position oiler. If you are using a shorter bar, turn it down to the lower setting.