spudulike

Some are single pole single throw, some are double pole single throw, some are normally open, some are normally closed, some handle high current, some handle low current, some need a high operating force and some have a low operating force, some are lit, some aren't, some have silver, gold, plattinum or alloy contacts, some are rockers and some are slide contacts, some are IP rated and some are not. Anyone still awake:blushing: Basically you are connecting from the coil to earth, in operation the switch will be open and when the saw is turned off, the switch is closed - this is not typical of the majority of switches. Husqvarnas use a slide type switch which is good as the contacts are cleaned by the operation of the switch each time it has used. I have replaced Husky switches with rocker type.

Well it sounds like lack of fuel as using the choke a bit will allow fuel to be dragged up the high speed jet that is probably working OK and is making up for the low speed part of the carb that probably isn't working correctly. A holed impulse line will stop the carb pulling enough fuel through so is worth looking at as are carb inlet manifold boot leaks - if it is bad enough it will let loads of air through and stop any sort of idle. A blocked tank breather will normally cause this sort of issue after a minute or two running but can occur immediately - loosening the fuel cap and trying this is a classic test to do. Metering arm IME - if they are set wrong, you will either get a very rich running or it won't run at all - look at where the diaphragm gasket sits - it should be BETWEEN the carb body and the diaphragm:blushing: Have you tried 1 1/2 turns out on the L screw? One possibillity is that the low speed part of the carb is either blocked, got resin in it etc - a good carb cleaner would help, ultrasonically cleaning the carb would also help and if all this fails - it sounds like the MS230 I have just fixed - had to remove the welch plug on that one!!

Got a 268 once as a non runner - five minutes later I had trippled its value by moving the coil - it may be that the flywheel has just lost a little magnetism but it does the trick and if the saw works - that is what counts:thumbup:

Nice vid Rob - hate taking down the raker depth guages - usually take chunks out of my left hand index finger trying to protect the cutter:001_huh:

Pull the spark plug, turn the saw upside down and pull it over fast - drive out that water. Put some WD40 down the plug hole - a few seconds of squirt, turn the saw over and then put it on its side and do the same, the other side and do the same and then upside down and do it again - this will coat the crank bearings and stopping them rusting. Drain and refill the tanks, pull both covers off the carb and clear any fluid. reassemble - warm the plug with a gas cooker or plumbers lamp and then pull the saw over fast with full choke and try to get it to fire. If it pops and is reluctant to go any further, hold the throttle open with your right hand and pull with your left - not usually recommended but should get it going - let it warm up really hot to drive off any water. Good luck and get it going fast as the water will start doing damage to steel parts very quickly!

Glad you got it going, think I mentioned the coil to flywheel gap in one of the posts on the first page of this thread and don't know what comms you have had with Bob not wanting to take his glory if he advised the same but anyway...the saw is running and that is what really matters:thumbup:

No need to appologise Rich, just a bit baffled by the statement - yup, seen the effects of gloop, almost as bad as clag and grot!....sounds like a TV police show!

Some of the operator manuals actually state that motor oil can be used in the absence of chain oil! It doesn't have the klingon agents:lol: in it - reckon I would just use it without the expensive STP otherwise it will start costing more than chain oil! Not sure of Riches thoughts on it damaging the oil pump, these motor oils are designed to go round car valve gear that is operating faster and under much higher tolerances than the humble oil pump on your chainsaw. You may find that the engine oil will react with your previously used oil so flush the tank out before using it or drain it thoroughly - the stuff can gloopify (thats a technical term) and stop the flow!

Pretty close - just 160 miles away as you are near HEREford and not HERTfordshire:blushing: Just clean it up, put it on a clean piece of paper and see where the oil is coming from overnight and then take that part of the machine apart! It may be coming out of the breather vent, is the machine actually oiling the bar and chain as it should - this should really me an easy fix - did Nepias 064 recently and the part was a few quid and labour something like £40

No wories about your spelling, it is better than our Danish and better than many on here:blushing:

Thats a plastic bung that pushes in to the AV rubber, best thing you can do is to clean the saw up and leave the saw to stand to see where the oil is coming from - it may be just oil coming off the chain and catching on the side cover. This can happen if you are using a shorter bar and havent adjusted the oiler from using a much larger one. You may have one of the oiler seals gone or just be trying to push oil in to a blocked bar oil hole - the only way it will go is between the bar and the mount!

Hope you have been careful with those saws of yours - looks like you have been having fun:thumbup:

For God sake don't do the inertia test with the saw running. The chainbrake test is to yank the throttle open and push the brake on - the chain should stop dead and not run on! The inertia test is to ensure the brake comes on if the bar is impacted in any way - kicking back and hitting your head is one way....ouch:thumbdown:

If it has a small screw in the middle of it, take this out and just lever it off - if there is no screw......just lever it off:001_rolleyes:

Not sure what plate you are talking about but worth checking the oiling hole in the bar is OK - it is easy to swap it round and not unblock the oiling hole. If the oil is coming from between the inner cover and the crankcase then it is possibly a holed oiler rubber pipe.

It's on this year - I guess if some of the Arbtalk guys are there I may well visit - Celebration of Trees We will have to see if Martin is around and go on the same day - the gardens and grounds are worth a look at as well:thumbup:

Yeah or fit the 020T backplate:thumbup: Carb issues are the achilles heel of these saws - apart from this, they are a damn good saw.

You either fit another MS200T carb as a direct replacement, fit an 020T carb - you will lose a little pickup but almost not noticeable - you will also need the 020T rubber grommet side plate where the adjuster screws are accessed - or you can get a grommet with all three holes. Other than that, the carb has three faults that I know of that can cause some pretty weird idle issues - took me a long while to get fixes in place!

Yeah - they rupture the springs on the high compression machines - pull over the saw a little slowly until the meter has built up pressure - it works a little better but still can blow them:001_rolleyes:

Buy a handful - ported saws blow the things each time:001_rolleyes: Just did my 346XP at 180psi - pop, another one dead!

Back to the bench, had a MS230 in that just wouldn't run after conversion to Aspen, even a long dip in the US cleaner didn't sort it, pressure and vac tests came in claen so I pulled the welch plug in desperation and put around half a can of carb cleaner thgrough it and it sorted it..Phew:thumbup: Also got a 262XP Husky in for service, looks in good nick, the piston still had visible machining marks on it, stripped it down and noticed that the crank had a clanging noise if the flywheel was rotated slightly one way and then the other. I just hoped it wasn't the big end. Compression had measuerd a lowly 125psi which didn't fit with the compression reading. Pulled the cylinder off and at first thought the small end was shot but it turned out the piston is badly worn where the gudgeon pin pushes in to the piston - first time I have seen this.

Man, a compression test is a five minute job - thank the lord you didn't ask for a rebuild - you would be in retirement before getting it back:lol:

:confused1:Huh - a picture is clearer than a thousand words - especially if you stick a big arrow on it to what you have! Any leak between the base of the cylinder and the crankcases will cause an air leak which may possibly seize the engine or will just cause idle and running issues - typically holding on to the revs and unstable idle. Compression is formed when the piston rings pass the exhaust port on the upward stroke, loss of compression can be caused by piston to bore wear/clearances, damaged bore, damaged piston, too much squish worn rings, scored bore etc I am not quite sure what you are describing - any base gasket leak needs sealing 100% and you need to make 145+psi for reliable combustion. Get me a photo of these "gaps" ...if you can get a 3 thou feeler gauge between the piston and the bore, you have clearance problems!

You should have asked before and saved yourself £70:001_rolleyes: Buy this piston off Leo - top guy and 5-7 days turn around - Piston Kit fit STIHL 064, 064 R, 064 RW, MS 640 (52mm) | eBay

I thought it was just when you buy my saws!