spudulike

Glad it is all done. I always spend a bit of time if I think the coil has failed as new ones are pretty expensive. No idea on the CST cost...around 30 mins I would think with the hard part being separating the connector to plug it in to then you need the coil part code to update. TBH, the info you get off the CST is by far from being definitive for fault finding and have yet to find it useful. The carb settings are usually the most interesting part. For those that have messed with a cars OBD2 fault finding, these saws are around 20 years behind...no disrespect to Husqvarna....saws just have far few sensors and are infinitely less complex.

In my first post I said pretty similar...... "The first photo, sometimes but not always, there is a plastic or soft rubber tiny bung in the brass bit and if you prize this out, there will be a screw underneath which is actually the top of the barrel needle and you can richen the low speed running by undoing it a little. " No disrespect......even my wife has problems keeping up with me, even after 30 years😉

I agree on this, the main trouble is finding someone who is pretty decent and knows what they are doing. Not pushing for the business as I am not doing much now. I guess resealing the crankcase upper to the engineered plastic lower and see how it goes. Make sure the small impulse pipe is connected between the manifold clamp and the carb union and it that doesn't do it....take it to someone who knows their two stroke engines. The blowback through the carb concerns me still as the top end is good .....was the "new" carb an OEM Husqvarna brand new boxed one or secondhand one?

I think we may be digressing....what about dynamite....may as well share it with the neighbours 👍

When you take the lower crankcase casting off, clean both mating surfaces. A very sharp wood chisel is good to facilitate this. Degrease both surfaces with brake cleaner or similar before resealing with liquid gasket. Use a relatively thick coating so if there is any bowing of the plastic, it will seal. I would usually pressure and vac test but it is worth making sure there is no oily residue leaking past the crank seals.

How about a direct hit by a B52 loaded with agent orange....worked in Vietnam!

We had this problem after my darling wife wanted to hide the log store.....two years....cut it down, dig out what you can and spray glyphosate over any shoots....did it eventually! This was the big 15' big leaved feed a panda for life variety!!

Get some pics up as it will make the issue more obvious. If the "C" moulding on the side cover is getting worn away, it may be the clutch has been spinning off on de-acceleration. If the drum has been rubbing on the side cover, I have seen similar from one of the clutch shoes having a damaged retainer allowing it to come off the centre boss although your badly worn needle bearing is possible but difficult to tell without feeling the wear. Post a pic of the clutch and cover, it may help.

In short, I think you have the MK1 coil on a MK2 machine. Mk 1 PT No is 581 72 36-02 MK2 PT No is 582 77 74-01 The programming only happens when you change the carb but the firmware of the autotune in the carb should be matched to the coil part number as the CST (Customer Service Tool) will ask when updating. I think your Part number on your coil starts with 581 but it is difficult to read but am taking this to be the MK1 part code. I don't know if the MK 1 coil will work with the Mk 2 flywheel - probably not. I don't know why the coil is marked "Walbro" as they manufacture carbs and most Husqvarna coils are manufactured by "SEM"! Fit the old coil back, close the gap right up and see if it sparks and check in subdued light...it won't be a big fat spark but will be visible. If no spark, fit a new coil of correct type. My belief is the AT and heated handles get their EMF from the power generator behind the coil. I am sure ADW will fill in the gaps if he can wrench himself away from Sanditon....now Downton abbey has finished!!

The coil may be a bit off, worth checking the gap as coils tend to stop sparking when the gap is a bit big and the coil warms up.

I get most of that sort of stuff from L&S unless you have a decent local business you want to support.

I got a cheap Chinese 24 litre compressor a bit like that SGS one for a bargain £45 delivered. Not sure how it happened but it did and 4 years in, it has been brilliant. A bit noisy but outlasted the Screwfix one that did only 2 years. One thing to remember, big rattle guns need a big feed pipe, the little coily airline pipe won't feed enough air. Apart from that, it will power nail and staple guns, pump up tyres and clean chainsaws via an air line. All arb types should have one!!

On the idle...a little slow perhaps but sounds about right.

It is called "Arbtrader"!

Did you have the chainbrake on in that last vid??? The rim, washer and E clip are missing, I assume you took them off. If the brake was on, re-film it with it off!

Just take the side cover, chain and bar off and see how much wobble there is on the clutch drum.....video it if you like and want an opinion

As per Stubby. This is an early pre Mtronic one and they were very susceptible to clutch bearing, drum and crank wear. Check it out and if bad, check the crank and if this is OK, check out the oiler arm as well as the movement on the drum often wears the end off the arm. Basically, the early ones were a bit of a crock!

Well, you must have had a tool makers background. Ours weren't supposed to use it....but they did anyway!

I got an old Hilka tap and die set probably made around 1970s-80s when the tap and dies were made properly, all split dies and metal box etc. As others have said, in tools like this, you get exactly what you pay for. One option is to look for the specific die you need and purchase one decent quality one....Dormer are very good and also use Vokel for their helicoil sets and they are also very good. The other option, if you want better tools is to purchase a vintage second hand kit like I did Brass can chip a bit but if you stick a good taper on it, the die should grip and start to cut.

Hope it isn't Kings Lynn Hospital....I gather the roof isn't the strongest judging by the amount of acrows holding it up!

L&S generally get "no stock" items in pretty quick if the stock is in the UK!

Blimey, that's a new one on me and I have a set of ten different types of adjuster. You may be able to get a bit of plastic tubing on it to turn it out. I once used the insulator off a crimp electrical connector. The splined adjuster may fit it and that round hole may be just for indication but reckon not. Other than that, you could cut a slot in it with a dremel diamond cut off disk which may be messy unless you can get it out or you could open that little hole out and use the PAC man adjuster as long as the diameter is correct.

If you fit a new piston...fit this one.....pretty much as good as OEM Genuine Meteor Husqvarna 350 Piston Assembly (44mm Dia) WWW.GARDENHIRESPARES.CO.UK Genuine Meteor part suitable for the following makes & models;Husqvarna51, 350, 351Jonsered2054 EPA, 2149, 2150 EPA, CS2150 EPAKit supplied with 44mm piston, ring, gudgeon...

I have looked at this again.... 1) When you rotate the flywheel, there is a noticeable "clunk" every time you move it...any idea what this is? 2) You talk about "Dicking" around with the carb and "That is with the L screw turned anti clockwise been tweeting both screws but can’t get it to idle nice with out bogging "....you got the saw a bit closer but what did you do to get there? What were the settings? If I took one of these saws in good order with a good carb, I could wind the H&L scews clockwise so they were lightly seated and then undo them 1 &1/4 turns and the saw would 100% run OK and all I would need to do is to adjust the idle. If you can't do this, something is wrong. Going back to the saw, if you take the piston off, take the ring off and push it in to the bore so it sits in the first part of the bore in its normal position at the bottom of the stroke, can you get much movement on the piston when rocking it from the exhaust side to the inlet side? You can just measure it with verniers across the skirts but am guessing you don't have any. Personally, I would whip off the upper crankcase alloy casting, clean it and reseal with a LOT of liquid gasket as the lower plastic cases on these machines often leak on this join. Have you inspected the inlet manifold for splits? These often get fitted badly (you must separate the rubber part from the clamp and fit to the cylinder correctly before fitting the clamp and THEN refiting the cylinder. Look for a deformed or split impulse connector as in my image below. The yellow line shows where they often split. Air leaks will cause the racing top end and the bogging but not the over fuelling. The carb you are using looks OEM unless you have swapped the diaphragm cover out. Over fuelling would normally be caused by the H screw being too far out from seated, 2-3 turns or more, or a faulty high speed check valve but this is rare and the machine would tend to rev out OK but idle would be near impossible and it may do what you are getting. If your carb is OEM and BRAND NEW, the check valve is very unlikely to be faulty.