spudulike

Mine was a much later 400 series so no joy there - possible it shares a few parts with Husqvarna, is there a number on it - like 503 XX XX-XX

That looks a tidy mower - someone must be interested - will do someone 25 years, well mine is around 30 years and still going strong:thumbup:

The jury is out on to why it seized, I am assuming that the owner knows about fuel mix and old fuel and will check the rest, as I always do, on rebuild. The carb settings were correct but will clean and check it out before firing up the engine after rebuild - so vac/pressure/comp check, check tank vent and tach tune and leave a tad rich to bed the new top end in. The piston is the worst one I have seen and it looks a bit overheated - many of the cylinders aren't machined on the base and there is no way you are going to get OEM tolerences by not machining - very poor IMO.

The running on could be: - 1) The throttle linkage being stiff (Unlikely) 2) Airleak from the crank seals - yours are classic symptoms 3) Airleak from Impulse line or Carb manifold - also very possible and more so if you are getting bogging in the mid range. 4) Other carb issues - and there are many on these saws:thumbdown: The most likely issue you have is that the crank seal on the clutch side is letting in air, there is also a possibility of one carb issue you may have that could cause it, especially if the idle speed keeps changing and it isn't the accelerator pump before someone jumps in:001_rolleyes: Check the colour of the spark plug, if the centre isnt coffee colour and the outer black then richen the H screw up - anti clockwise 1/4 turn before you fry your saw - this IS NOT the fix but will protect it a little in the short run. Loks like it needs a bit of work - one simple thing to do is try another known good carb and see if it cures the issues!

As per my previous post - run it hard BUT GIVE IT A BREAK especially on its first few tankfulls - you will build up a lot of heat if you run it through a 2' lump of wood in the first 5 mins of running. A few short cuts of 12" dia are the way to go but just take note of the initial auto tune setup!

I always try to salvage the cylinder and then fit a Meteor piston, I have done this on many occasions on many saws and have had very good success with this. Chinese pistons and cylinders are hit and miss - just had one that hasn't been machined on the top surface - terrible.... and it had seized. Pistons should contain a specific proportion of Silicon to ensure hardness and if the Chinese can't be bothered to machine a top surface, how bothered are they in other quality aspects of these cheap products. Anyway...whats wrong with the saw??

In theory, there will be some roughness in both the new rings and the honing on the cylinder, you really need to bed both components in together fast before they get too smooth or coated in glaze and running the saw at maximum revs will do this but in short bursts to begin with to avoid excessive heat build up through friction. Running saws at half speed isn't great as they are designed to be flat out (WOT) or on idle and slow running in may glaze the bore without the ring/piston bedding in properly. On dawgs/dogs....got them fitted on many saws but only ever use them on big cuts on bigger saws - on a saw this size, it should self feed through the timber without using them and they do afford some protection to the front of the saw/muffler.

The manual will tell you how to run it in but personally I run full throttle and max speed but for short cuts and avoid long extended cuts through big wood for 5 - 10 tanks. Avoid excessive heat build up!

Mmm - funny that:001_rolleyes:

You mix the oil to the OIL manufacturers specification, older saws used 25:1 as that is what the oil manufacturers of the day speced their oil at. If you use Stihl HP, you mix it at 50:1 for all machines as that is what the oil manufacturers recommend - even on older machines, more will just carbon the ports and exhaust up.

Yeah, thanks Rich, wonder where you got that one from:001_rolleyes: Been working on an HS85 hedge trimmer, took the muffler off and found the exhaust port was about 50% clogged up with carbon. Got the piston to cover the port and carefully cut out the carbon and blew it out with an air line. Also have a Jonsered 2171 that has had a cheap Chinese kit fitted and then seized, carb settings are fine so may be an airleak but will test later. One thing I have never seen before is that the piston out of the Jonnie has a rough cast top - how crap is that - they are always machined down to size but this one is something else - cheap, cheap cheap rubbish!

I am guessing your saw looks something like this - Model Profile: F55 And isn't one of those McCulloch clone bitches - OK saws if they are running but scrap if not! The problem you have is that the saws are a bit rare - originally made in Sweden and believe at the same place as Husqvarna. I do have an old Partner in the collection - get a photo up of the part and if it has a part code - something like 503 XX XX-XX then lets have that - the part may correspond with another old more popular Husky.

No, not yet. tesgol had some Taiwanese ones that looked OK but would use OEM rings if I used one - just had bad experience with poor rings!

Just finished another MS200T, needed the accelerator pump to be disabled but seems ok - symptoms were bad pickup followed by dying and difficult to restart. Just got the first Meteor Cylinder kit in, doing a Jonnie 2172 and have now found the new kit will need the 372 manifold to make it work:001_rolleyes: The kit generally looks good, plating is good, the port edges look a bit sharp so will bevel them to make sure, the ports could do with smoothing especially the exhaust and will be interested to see how it goes once done.

Possible air leak, crank seals as Rich says. The tube is the tank vent, the top part will pull off and you should be able to sick air through it. The carbs on these saws can give strange issues that may need an ultrasonic clean or other work done but can be eliminated by fitting another good carb to see if it is the issue or not! If you get stuck, PM me:thumbup:

Nah, apart from fixing and porting saws, I also take the piss and have a good line of sarcasm and dry humour - those that know me to their expense:blushing:

British law at it's best:001_rolleyes:

And the winner is - HUSQVARNA:thumbup: 298XP - 32 secs 076 - 47 secs The 298XP also had the larger cut - nice job and good to see the saw doing some work:thumbup: substantially faster!

No offence meant, couldn't resist:blushing: Not meant to be cryptic and yup, a play on words - sorry Jon:001_tt2:

I prefer a deck chair, a plate of fish and chips followed by a Mr Whippy.....ding dong:blushing:

My burning question is, did the 084 do the job or is it back go me sometime soon:001_rolleyes: The other one is did Martin take a load of wood Way to fly tip on my drive like the last lot! Nice job

It is all about chain speed, chain setup and torque in the cut. If the saw has a sell set up chain, the saw pulls decent top end revs and the torque is enough to keep the chain speed high in the cut then the saw will be good. You need go see which element was missing and deal with it!

No worries - ask Stubby or terry tibbs what they reckon on my work:thumbup:

Meteor are Italian and are the best quality after the original OEM part but at a fraction of the cost. I have fitted many and never had any issues, they are fitted with quality Caber rings and have nothing but praise for them and well worth the extra money IMO. As Rich says, make sure the cylinder is good and if the saw has seized at some stage, make sure the reason is sought and fixed before using the saw.