spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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Two MS200Ts finished and tested today, now got a few weeks fire wood - had to climb up a tree, lug my timber up and then cut it as you can't use these saws on the ground:001_rolleyes: One was a 2006 that had seized, cleaned the cylinder, fitted an OEM piston that was in good nick and dropped the base gasket. measured 210psi cold - highest comp ever:thumbup: It really goes well, tested on hawthorn, ash and elm - all hard and seasoned - very nice. The other one wouldn't idle at all, I had already refurbed it a few months earlier, took the carb apart and it tested out just fine so did the accelerator pump mod and all is good again, steady idle and top end - tested for 30 mins and fine.
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It is most likely wearing a 0.325" sprocket, a 15" bar would be best for speed and balance of the saw, two options really 1.5mm full chisel which is standard kerf and ideal for heavier work or 1.3mm narrow kerf Oregon Micro Lite Pro with 95VPX chain, this set up is lighter but will speed the saw up as it will be taking smaller chips out of the wood. Anything larger then 15" will slow the saw down and make it less easy to use IMO.
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Good guess, the crank seals and bearings have been replaced, reckon the coil knocked the original ones out:thumbdown:
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Been working on a 372XP, not running right, lumpy and no idle, found the coil was mullered - it is the one on the left hand side. The oiler pinion was missing the end of the rotors meaning it didn't work, the sprung loaded pin on the chain brake was missing, the chain break plastic spring retainer was broken off and the route cause of the poor running - a small crack in the carb pumping menbrane!
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Ditch that exhaust, you can see it will stifle the saw just by all that gubbins in it! Seen a couple of pistons like that, caused by piston slap at the bottom of the bore and will eventually shatter the skirt. It makes idle pretty "knocky". A new piston will bring it back to life:thumbup:
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Mmm, at least that chain brake handle isn't gonna come loose in a hurry now:001_rolleyes:
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Been working on a Stihl MS460 today, it was in the workshop to port, one thing that always makes me smile is when the saw that the owner needs making faster comes in with a real claggy air filter that must rob the saw of a good 15% of its power. Anyone tried running a mile with a face mask on or with a bad cold:lol: Anyway - the saw is done, exhaust widened, piston windows opened up considerably, the dual port muffler opened up and the squish lowered. It came in with a healthy 170psi but now has nearer 190psi so it should pull well, pickup is pretty nippy for a large saw:thumbup:
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I think last time I had it, the recoil got caught by the flywheel and ripped the guts out of it - not had it in for a year at least - I do get a fair few in though - ported a good number now!
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Looks like the top one needs building up with a new piece of plate and the lower one building up with epoxy - you can pin steel in to the casing as long as you don't drill in to the tank.
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Try this fella, I got four vermiculite fireblocks off him, very good price and fast delivery - just ask him for what you want.
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Yup, ditch the cat, it will kill performance. Put a dual port on it and open it up some more if you want a bit more go:thumbup: You can take the cats out but it is a bit of a chore!
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You may be able to get clever and fabricate a retaining plate for the broken part or even get an insert in there and JB weld it in place - just repaired a real busted up 372XP rear AV mount so much can be done - just need to get creative:thumbup: Get an image up so we can kick the solutions around it!
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Local guy with a penchant for throwing his equipment out of trees brought his 372XP round - rear AV mount was badly cracked, supporting areas were broken and the tie bar across the top of the flywheel was also busted. Took the flywheel off, cut a strip of steel to size and then bent and modeled it to fit around the area and wrap in to the flywheel surrounding casting. JB weld behind it and some self tappers through it, steel to the inside of the area an more JB weld saw a pretty strong repair and saved him having to have the complete saw rebuilt. I even managed to pin and JB weld the tie bar! I also helicoiled some of the holes, put an insert in to the chain brake habdle pivot and the job is a good one!
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What Ray said, the cylinder has transfer, inlet and exhaust ports so re sleeving can't be done - its construction is a bored aluminium cylinder with a thin nikasil plating that is extremely hard. First thing to do is to remove the aluminium transfer from the bore and then inspect for bad scores, especially above the exhaust port as this is where the engine makes compression. Don't be put off if t looks a little bad as one MS260 I had looked bad to me and made 190psi and has spent 6 months in the field, hard use still running well. The OEM cylinder will be made far better than a Chinese aftermarket one - if you can salvage the cylinder - I have salvaged 95% I have had in, then you may have to fit the OEM piston but it will bring the cost down significantly! Personally I always vac and pressure check an engine after doing this work and re tach the carb but that is my choice and protects the owner from having the same issue almost immediately.
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Thats the one, lovely job and smells great as long as you aren't hungry:blushing:
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That will be the custom heat shield on the 346:thumbup:
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I have to say that generally, Huskys are a joy to port, their closed Window pistons allow large potential for port widening and once done, they sort of.....rip:thumbup: The MS200 is a pretty simple mod, one customer broke his wrist skiing and I had to fit the sprung starter handle as it was making 190psi:blushing: All good stuff and always a pleasure to work on Andys and Daves machines:thumbup:
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Just adjust the H screw to maintain correct max revs!
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So they are screw in - need to get a good grip on it and unscrew! I usually put the new one in with stud lock loctite!
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And you can use it to stir your tea
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Dump any old fuel in it, it would benefit from checking the fuel lines - a new carb kit may be a worthwhile investment and check the fuel filter is OK. The chain oil may have gone gloopy so flushing out the tank with fuel would be a good move. There are a few on here hat run these, primarily for milling and that is where it's value is. On ebay - £250 - £400 depending on condition. 111cc engine size!
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Firstly, it is very possible to get a perfect seal on the pressure test and get the vacuum leaking. This often makes the saw hang on to revs when the throttle is let off. The clutch side seal is generally the one that goes and I usually pack a bit of grease aroiund it to see if it slows down the vacuum leak - it should have an effect. Thick oil will also have a similar effect and will be sucked in!
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Find the other end of the stud - this can be in a fuel tank, by the side of the muffler etc. If they are push in, the ends will be square or threaded if they are screw in. You may be able to get two nuts on the end of the remaining stud end, stilsons, plumbers grips/mole grips may do it or clean the nut and stud and use loctite 270 on it and let it go off - then try to unscrew it. The easyout stud remover will also shift it but don't snap it in the hole - also possible too file two flats and use a spanner on it:thumbup:
