spudulike
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Everything posted by spudulike
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It is a screw mounted to the top left hand side of the oiler plate I believe. It is definitely adjustable
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Try to clean the cylinder by chemically removing the aluminium transfer - don't get clever and use a hone - you may well bugger it up. A soft hone or light hone can be used for a very short while to break the glaze and no more or just use light grit emery paper. Pistons - I don't think Meteor do them and believe Golf is the best aftermarket one you can get - use the OEM circlips in it though.
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What about Castrol R - now that really smells nice......just changing the bloody subject:lol: I will probably use up all my Stihl HP and eventually move on to a higher grade oil but have to say that some of my saws are a little.......hot and not had any issues with the oil I use so will stick with what I know. Not to say that other cheaper or no brand oils aren't as good but at least if you buy an oil manufactured by a garden equipment manufacturer or a preffered partner, you know that it has been designed for the specific use that you are going to use it for. Any thoughts on Amsoil:sneaky2:
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The chip in the bottom of the port is fine - you can smooth it a little with a diamond file and/or 180 grit then 400 grit paper just to make sure but the lower edge on the exhaust gives no port timing function - you just haev to make sure the damage doesn't snag the ring. Cleaning the squish band - just use a small wood chisel but don't go barmy. Clean the exhaust port of carbon as well - it will save it damaging the piston at a later date.
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Right, understand, I am one of those dissers My view is that the 2 stroke oil really doesn't cost much and I would rather use something that has been designed with high performance saws in mind rather than a scooter etc but understand where your mindset was:thumbup: My pants are creamless though:lol:
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It will be worth pulling the pump off and making sure the thing isn't plugged. Also make sure the pick up filter and pipe is OK and the outlet hole to bar oler channel is clear - it may save you the hassle:thumbup:
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Are you saying that the two stroke oil is less developed than four stroke sump oils or making the point that chainsaw engines are not as stressed as engines used in two stroke bike racing for instance - just trying to clarify where you are coming from:confused1: I think the point all the garden equipment techs are making is that chainsaws go through more duress than pretty much any other bit of garden two stroke equipment and are not comparing the oil used in them to something used in a TZ500 for instance:thumbup:
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Pimp my saw is coming to mind Wes:lol: Nice saw:thumbup:
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That bore looks bad - it looks like the exhaust port has wear all around it framing the port in bare aliminium plus it looks pretty scored. Difficult to always tell from images but it looks past it to me:thumbdown:
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Are you sure it hasn't lost the end of the ring where it meets the pin? 1.5mm is massive:thumbdown:
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The fuel starts to break down the properties of the oil and 3-4 weeks is a fair time before dumping the fuel in your mower etc. Damage to your saw will depend on carb setting, sort of use and how long it runs flat out but not worth taking a risk - just mix what you need for the day or few days work.
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Not sure I get that - I don't think any other petrol powered garden kit revs as nearly as hard as a chainsaw - most kit is 3-4,000 lower!
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Not being funny but you may like to remember the chain brake handle has a safety function and you may have compromised the function of it. What I am saying is that if others use this saw - think of how you would feel if it had failed and hurt someone - think the spare part wil be under £25! Others may have their own views
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Leaf blower cuts out after 10 mins of use.
spudulike replied to normandylumberjack's topic in Chainsaws
You can get a drop in compression when an engine gets hot, if it starts at a low 130psi, when it is warm, it can drop to 115psi and stop it re-starting hot. Other than that it may be a tank vent, fuel issue or ignition coil - try closing the gap between the coil and the flywheel - had a MS460 that would start and die when hot - found the gap too large. It isn't always the end of the road and don't give up easily on anything:thumbup: -
If you are going to use that in your 372XP, I am not going to send if back to you:001_tt2: A saw will rev up to 15,000 - your saw will run up to 13,500 rpm. The average scooter will be much lower at around 10,000rpm The chainsaw will hit peak revs within a half a second, the scooter will build up to this speed. The oil has been designed for scooters Stihl/Husky oils have been specifically designed for saws and garden equipment. You have already had one seize on your saw - you gonna risk it again? The cylinder may not take another seize - the OEM part will be around £330:thumbdown:......not fitted:001_rolleyes:
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anything between 5 - 20 thou, with the former being on good new rings. You can normally tell when the ring gets worn as the ends becone a lot thinner than the rest of the ring. Check the bore is ok with the plating not worn through. Measure the compression - on smaller engines it can feel low but still measure up OK.
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Stihl RSC?
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The wife feared you had baked a big cup cake:lol:
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Lots already on the site about this - the oil dictates the mix and not the saw - most modern oils are 50:1!
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Had a saw in that looked like a big cupcake:001_rolleyes: 395XP, the plg had blown out and had been then it stopped again. Found that the thread had been ripped out and I now need to put an insert in, more pics to follow tomorrow!
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I ported a 346Xp cylinder some time ago for someone that wanted it done - I usually take the full saw and do the full job but here we go.... Not revving past 9500rpm:confused1: It had an air leak caused by a inlet manifold being fitted badly and the carb was far to rich - retuned to around 14,400 and it sounded a lot crisper:thumbup: Inlet manifold was re-sealed and is now 100%
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I used to do a bit of beach casting this time of year and pulled out the cod:lol: Place the side cover on, and pull the saw over lightly to mesh the pulley with the flywheel pawls - check the springs on the flywheel pawls are OK.
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Tried the one I had the backfiring on today and it revs out, idles and cuts fine - I am just putting it down to the ignition unit retarding the spark, all seems 100% now on this one. On the 365/372 x torq, looks like Husky got lazy and put two saws out with very little difference bar the power output easily obtainable by modifying the transfer blockage they put in to stifle the output:001_rolleyes: Looks like a simple mod!
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Good luck with the thread Martin, for those that don't know him, you couldn't wish for a nicer bloke - he does swear a bit though!!
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It is probably a time issue, I get lots of great ideas but never have the time to do them or they take months/years. The 066 project has been sitting there for 16 months and is now taking shape - another 6 months and I may be there:001_rolleyes:
