spudulike

Thanks George, lucky you didn't run it as it would have gone pop with the impulse line loose. Next time you have spare time, I think your clutch springs are a bit slack, they ring a bit on idle, meant to mention it! Glad to help, hope all works out fine now!

I think you have found the answers already, take the clutch off, clean it all up, oil the bearing and try again. Sounds like the clutch drum is hindering the crank movement enough for it to stop the saw idling.

Well done Barrie, he shoots and scores:thumbup:

Then turn the flywheel slowly with your fingertips taking in if it is tight all the way round, if it is notchy, jams or tight in one area etc. May have seized or some of the other things mentioned earlier, it may be that the carb has leaked and put loads of fuel in to the crankcase but lets do the above and go from there. Lots of experience on here!

What is freely moving? The flywheel or the starting pulley? If it is the starter pulley then the side cover should be rested in place and the recoil pulled over so it sits in the correct place flush with its surroundings. With most Huskys, you have to engage the pulley with the pawls on the flywheel. If this is not the case, remove the muffler and look at the condition of the piston through the exhaust port and make sure it isn't seized. If that is OK then check the flywheel isn't fouling on shyte around the coil. Other than that, take off the side cover and rotate the flywheel round and see if there is free rotation of the saw or is that what you have done already??

Take the Silver Lady off the Rolls Royce Steve and put this little fella in her place:-) Business good eh:lol:

They certainly can, go seek and you shall find:sneaky2:

I source nitrile coated seals that are easier to use:thumbup:

Blimey, what a palaver, it ain't that difficult......is it???

Just stick a bit of thin pipe on the line and blow down it rotating the engine and you will hear the air in the lower crankcase by the note of the air. It is unlikely to be blocked!

Always worries me when people just stick another P&C on their machine and hope for the best:001_rolleyes: If you are 100% sure why the old top end failed then great, go ahead, all should be OK If you are not sure why it failed, chances are that you will create a nice finned aluminium ash tray very shortly plus a smaller one crafted out of an up turned piston:thumbdown: If the saw has failed for reasons unknown, the saw should have a leak-down test and a fuel system inspection - it is what I do and have close to 100% success rate!

Not that I know much about the subject you may like to richen the "H" screw a little as I have known saws to be running a little lean on the high screw and once muffler modded - bang, one expensive repair:thumbdown: You can either use a tach to ensure the saw is running at 500-1000rpm under max revs or do it by ear and testing the colour of the plug, it should look the same colour as a relatively strong coffee, if it looks a bit "Latte" then richen it further. When you rev the saw flat out, it should have a little bit of reverberation or "four stroking" in its note! The L screw may need a tweak but will not damage the engine. Signs it will need doing are a slight bogging just after idle (early to mid revs) when the throttle is snapped open or thrown I to a cut when not being up to speed.

With the list of kit you have changed, you have firstly probably spent way over what I charge to sort these issues and to put the whole machine back in to good service but also, the only thing left for you to replace are the crank seals that would have been tested in one of my refurbs and replaced saving all the other issues you have tried. You have probably learnt a fair bit but TBH, I find that guys that climb & cut are better off earning their dosh climbing/cutting and if their saws go wrong, they give them to guys that own a workshop and know how to fix saws:001_rolleyes: it is good you tried:thumbup: but if you work out the loss of earnings on the time you have spent and parts you have used then it would have made more sense to send it in and get a stonking saw back that I do cover with a gentleman's warranty - if it fecks up, I take it back and take a pragmatic view on it! So, you probably have a leaking crank seal. Generally this causes the idle to race unless the L screw is set mega rich, the high speed screw would need to be further out than 1 turn and it is likely that the saw wont snap down to an even idle when the throttle is released - this is why I bang on about pressure and vacuum tests, there are a few further techniques I use doing these tests but they have saved me literally days of work and hundreds of pounds in parts when analysing issues with saws! On the impulse line - just blow down it to make sure it is clear, the saw will enjoy it:001_tongue:

Looking good Wes:thumbup:

Wes has a 281XP Husqvarna - the big old school 80cc banger of a saw so it will be the two part coil he is after and not a Stihl.......correct me if I am wrong Wes?

The fuel line will probably not be the issue unless it was split before you changed to Aspen. The fuel line often hardens once pump petrol is taken from it and then it leaks around the area it pushes in to the fuel tank and that is why they are often changed. I believe that this carb has a weird single screw idle adjustment only and works by bypassing the throttle valve with a bleed screw. If this is so then it needs to be turned anti clockwise until it beds and then turn two turns in (Clockwise) and the saw should run OK on this. If the carb is different then let us know. The fact both give the same symptoms sort of rules out the carb. Has the saw got good compression, have you popped the muffler off to check the piston through the exhaust port? A lower idle than normal may be attributed to a bit of drag on the clutch/needle bearing, worth whipping it off and giving it a clean and see if that makes a difference. The fact the saw has only done 20 tanks sort of rules out that the seals etc have gone or the saw is just worn out! The fact that pointing the saw downward improves the saw looks like it may be the fuel pickup so check the fuel line/filter position and worth pressure testing the fuel line (can be done without removing). If you get he saw idling on the deck, does pulling the rear handle to and from the engine cause the engine note to rise and fall? If it does, perhaps the manifold is holed. When you removed the first carb, did you replace that little plastic ring that stops the manifold collapsing and restricts the impulse line a little? Common for these to go missing

Exactly what I was thinking - make sure it looks like this - Note the high rise airfilter cover and the design of the recoil/flywheel starter cover. It would be a strange item for a typical garden centre to have for sale! The serial plate is the black plate below the oil filler cap!

It is how the other half live, I just dream of such equipment:lol:

As long as it is on:blushing: and in this weather, lets hope it is:thumbup:

Looks like a reasonable repair, pretty much I would have done and should last. The oil tank isn't pressurised which makes life easier!

Most seized saws can have the cylinders cleaned up and do have a long reliable life afterwards, done many like this with a very good success rate and keeps the rebuild cost down to something sensible.

Missed this thread, Yup - 357XP, fine machine and great to tune. The 362 are a mystery to me, I can't understand how an MS200, MS260and MS660 can run for years on the same clutch needle roller bearing but the 362 knocks them out so quickly and then takes out the oiler worm drive, the clutch drum and in worse cases, the oil pump......just don't get it, something is wrong:confused1: I haven't played with the autotune 362 but the standard carb one is sort of OK, not very exciting or revvy but works OK but the clutch drum area is a worry! The MS361 is a different beast, close in numbers but is more like the older MS260/MS460/MS660 range of saws!

Nice collection, a few bucks there once done!

Even the saws are getting excited about being on my bench:lol:

I use an Allendale 100w heated unit, powerful enough to blow holes in thin aluminium foil - works pretty well and use their carb cleaning solution. Loves Steves retort to the earlier posting:lol: